Hey guys thought I would sign-up and get some info.
I just recently sent my rod through the block, and I was wondering if there is any difference between an american sr20de and a japan sr20de...
Is there going to be any swap issue's between the 2...I might as well put a new clutch in while im there is there any CHEAP clutch's that are worth a damn..i just replaced the clutch about 5000 (new tranny -5th gear pop-out)ago and it started to slip the next month..(nissan brand)..has anyone done this swap- <easy?> american sr20de -to- japanesse sr20de. not really looking for performance just to get my daily driver back on the road for cheap.....THANX
I had the same problem with my tranny. I was doing 110 and it poped out strait through to the limiter. Not good. I got it replaced but it seems to be going again. I have a Euro Spec Almera GTI which uses the SR20DE engine from my recolection there is no difference between the two. Im gona use US parts on it. You should mail nissan themselves. They will give you the answer.
You can put a J-spec SR20DE in a US SE-R with minimal problems. I mean it's the same engine, it goes right in. I think the worst that will happen is that you might have to swap a couple components over, like use your US temp sender on the J-spec motor for exampe.
Go to www.kwcengine.com and find their phone number and call them up. Tell them you want a FWD JDM SR20DE and that you heard they can be bought for $250. A guy I know paid around $310 with shipping. The engine will have around 30K miles on it and it'll have a 12month/12Kmile warranty. If you live in a state that has smog testing, you'll need to swap your EGR and other emissions equipment over to the new engine. You'll also gain 10hp just for switching to the JDM motor. Let us know how things turn out and if you need more help. This swap has been done a million times, and from what I understand is no harder than if you were swapping in a USDM motor. Also do some searches over at www.sr20deforum.com. Good luck.
-Rob
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Rob '93 SE-R
PM or e-mail me for Progress swaybars $190 shipped, B13 Progress coilovers $1300 shipped and B13 Progress LCA brace $160 shipped.
something's wrong with the world when a whole engine with shipping costs less than a CAI...
Exactly, hence why I'll never buy a prefabbed CAI new for what they get for them. It's highway robb'ry I tell ya!
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why dont you go one better and put an SR20DET engine in it. not sure what tranny changes ul have to make but id say its worth it.
To which he might remind us:
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not really looking for performance just to get my daily driver back on the road for cheap
A DET swap is going to cost him like $3000 minimum, versus closer to $300 minimum for the JDM swap. Note that neither price includes a clutch, driveshafts (which if they haven't been replaced in a few years, ought to be done while doing the other things) any motor mounts or mount inserts. Granted, I wholeheartedly agree with doing an SR20DET swap, which is what I'd do if I were faced with the same circumstances as he, however he doesn't have the same goals. So with his aforementioned quote in mind, I'd buy the JDM, replace the front and rear crank seals, replace the water pump, belts, shaft output seals on the tranny, replace any soft motor mounts or just buy the ES inserts (cheaper than replacing bad mounts), replace the clutch cable, replace the driveshafts (again, unless they've been done in the past year or so), and that's about it. He'd be good to go for several years. I did many of these same things when I replaced my clutch just this past weekend, being tranny side crank seal, shaft output seals, ES motor mount inserts, ES shifter bushing, clutch cable, driveshafts. If he spent $200 on a clutch kit that included the bearing, get's the JDM for about $325 shipped, and does all those things I mentioned, he'd be out around $900. Not a small chunk of change mind you, but he'd have a 30K mile engine that will run for another 60-90K before needing anything other than routine maintenance to keep up.
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Rob '93 SE-R
PM or e-mail me for Progress swaybars $190 shipped, B13 Progress coilovers $1300 shipped and B13 Progress LCA brace $160 shipped.
Last edited by toolapcfan : Nov 7th, 2002 at 04:44 PM.
some of the JDM sr20de have higher compression like 10:1 our's is 9:1. It is probably a 20hp improvement but i think they are rarer than those $300 ones every else is talking about. you may have to get a jim wolf comp upgrade if you went with the 10:1
about the clutch slipage. i had the same problem after i put a $450 cluthmaster stage three in. the problem was i had overadjusted the freeplay in the clutch. there is a cheesy little lever with a lock nut and adjusting knob. make sure you can push in your clutch pedal 2-3 inches before you feel the resistance of the clutch. a stock clutch shoul not slip if your car is close to stock power.
did you break it in (drive reasonble for about 500 miles) or did you beat the piss out of it when you put in the new clutch?
make sure you can push in your clutch pedal 2-3 inches before you feel the resistance of the clutch. a stock clutch should not slip if your car is close to stock power.
My cltuch freeplay was that much until I adjusted it tonight. According to my FSM and this is typical of clutches in general, there should only be about 1/2" of freeplay before you start to feel resistance.
Clutch break in is a bitch, it takes forever. I put a new clutch in my '93 XE a few months before I sold it and I was mostly stock, had advanced timing and and CAI, and it would slip at high RPM's. You've got to be careful to allow proper break in, otherwise you'll glaze the PP and flywheel and it'll slip all the damn time. The clutch I just put in my SE-R was used, has 13K on it, and it doesn't slip at all. I scrubbed the shit out of the PP and my flywheel with brake cleaner and a scotchbrite pad though to remove any glazing.
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there is a cheesy little lever with a lock nut and adjusting knob.
Shitty thing is that I put a new clutch cable in because they get stretched over time. I don't feel like it made any difference though, I still had to adjust the cable as tight as it would go to get the freeplay where it's supposed to be.
__________________
Rob '93 SE-R
PM or e-mail me for Progress swaybars $190 shipped, B13 Progress coilovers $1300 shipped and B13 Progress LCA brace $160 shipped.
Last edited by toolapcfan : Nov 7th, 2002 at 09:30 PM.
with this JDM engine are they lagit. it just sounds to cheap. if they really dont cost that much i might buy one for spares on mine. And you say you get a 20 HP gain. Why is this? It does interest me. Only problem is i live in England on an Airforce base and i think the shipping will kill me.
ya what he said, that's probably where most of the power comes from. and i believe the jdm's are all high port.
and ours is 9.5:1 not 9:1
jdm primeras are 10:1
i don't believe any FWD SR20DE has made over 150hp
but the RWD SR20DE makes up to 200hp in the S15 Autech Spec S silvia
A DET swap is going to cost him like $3000 minimum, versus closer to $300 minimum for the JDM swap. Note that neither price includes a clutch, driveshafts (which if they haven't been replaced in a few years, ought to be done while doing the other things) any motor mounts or mount inserts. Granted, I wholeheartedly agree with doing an SR20DET swap, which is what I'd do if I were faced with the same circumstances as he, however he doesn't have the same goals. So with his aforementioned quote in mind, I'd buy the JDM, replace the front and rear crank seals, replace the water pump, belts, shaft output seals on the tranny, replace any soft motor mounts or just buy the ES inserts (cheaper than replacing bad mounts), replace the clutch cable, replace the driveshafts (again, unless they've been done in the past year or so), and that's about it. He'd be good to go for several years. I did many of these same things when I replaced my clutch just this past weekend, being tranny side crank seal, shaft output seals, ES motor mount inserts, ES shifter bushing, clutch cable, driveshafts. If he spent $200 on a clutch kit that included the bearing, get's the JDM for about $325 shipped, and does all those things I mentioned, he'd be out around $900. Not a small chunk of change mind you, but he'd have a 30K mile engine that will run for another 60-90K before needing anything other than routine maintenance to keep up.
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