Hi new member here. Hope I'm in the right sub-forum.
2000 Sentra SE manual with almost 83,000 miles.
Changed my plugs and wires about 3 months ago. 3ish weeks ago I changed the distributer cap and rotor. The cap had was a 2001 part cause the 2000 didn't fit. Right around the time I was changing these parts I noticed some rought idling when sitting at a light and whatnot. It was intermittant.
Someone who road with me said it was a mis-fire and to re-change my plugs. I pulled out plug #1 and it looked normal.
Vehicle started getting worse. Was just above 500 rpm when idling and was VERY hard to start. Had to actually give it gas to start while cranking.
Took to local car shop. They said it was a $13.99 part on the fuel pump area , but no promise it would work. Said vehicle was losing fuel pressure and needed a fuel pump replacement eventually, not today just soon. I said just go ahead and fix that too. $545 total when I picked up vehicle today.
When I got inside the friggin' check engine light was on. They sent someone out to the car and he hooked up the code thingie and it cleared. He restarted it and said it was nothing.
Drove home and surprise, it's still idling rough! RPMs are back at normal range but still feels like it's going to stall when sitting at a light. It's also hard to start still, mainly after it's been riden. If I start it tomorrow AM it probably will start fine. But if I try to start it after 30 min of already starting it, it's hard to start.
I would check the idle speed (Directions here under timing), and then the timing. And I just noticed that your not using the NKG's, I would highly recommend doing this. But I'm not a mechanic, sounds as if the guy you took it to wasn't either... At least on Nissans Think about it you did stuff to engine, not the fuel pump. I hope you didn't get taken for a ride. The fact that they changed to spark plugs is a little odd... Did you check the gap when you put the plugs in the first time?
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1998 Senra SE
(Need I say 5 speed?)
Advanced timing, Stillen G load Brace, B&M short shift kit
Last edited by CHRIS/SR/SE : Nov 30th, 2004 at 01:21 PM.
-update-
Check engine light came on while I was enroute to take it back today after work. They had it for just over an hour. It had 2 codes. I know I've got the device name wrong, but it was something like EKG
It was something that was electrical that re-uses the exhaust fumes. He was explaining it to me, that it recycles it to try and burn as much fuel as possible or something like that. He also pointed it out under the hood.
The code said that the device was stuck open and stuck closed. They removed it and it seemed to operate normal. They put it back in and test drove it and brought it back.
They said they don't know why this would occur when they changed the fuel pump which was under the driver seat. He said it isn't going to cause any harm to the car, but that he doesn't know what is causing the rough idle. He pinched the (?) exhaust hose that was going in/out of the EKG unit and the idle smoothed some, but barely. He said to just drive it like this until the code goes off again. If the code goes off, to come back and they will look at that device. Maybe it wasn't seated correctly he said, or it may need replacement.
He said to use a fuel additive to clean the injectors and just drive it awhile and see if anything changes.
The only thing I noticed since the new fuel pump is that the RPMs are back to normal (750ish) vs. 500ish when I was experiancing these problems. This place is supposed to be very (very) honest. My friend has gone here for 7 years and it's a small local shop that is always busy. They didn't charge me anything for what they did today.
-edit-
also what are NKGs?
NGK is a brand of spark plug, its what you should've put in you car when you changed the plugs...but a different brand wont hurt any.
and for your injector cleaner, get techron. its a cleaner made by chevron and its what GM reccomends to clean injectors. the actually sell it at GM dealerships, but if you buy it at walmart or autozone it is about 1/3 the cost.
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I'll edit YOUR signiture!
Last edited by Tavel : Nov 30th, 2004 at 07:30 PM.
So after all that I have to ask if you were having any of the stated problems before you worked on your car or just after... I sill don't see how the fuel pump could have gone bad, but like I said I'm not a mechanic. By the way did you mean EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) valve? Ironically the same topic came up in the B-14(95-99 Sentra\200sx) section. click here I know you have a B-15 but as far as the engine goes (sr20de) it's almost the same.
__________________
1998 Senra SE
(Need I say 5 speed?)
Advanced timing, Stillen G load Brace, B&M short shift kit
Last edited by CHRIS/SR/SE : Nov 30th, 2004 at 08:58 PM.
Sweet I used techron by chance ... something I got free awhile back and was sitting in my garage. Maybe that'll help.
Yes I meant ERG ... I couldn't find the part online at discount or anything so it must have to come from the dealership. Thank you for that thread link ... would the diagram/instructions be the same?
I don't think it's related to the work I did on the plugs/wires/distributor cap/rotor. They re-changed the plugs at the repair shop. If I can change this ERG myself I'm going to try it. I found the fuel pump online for $267 after I paid $409 at the repair shop (not including labor).
Yes I meant ERG ... I couldn't find the part online at discount or anything so it must have to come from the dealership. Thank you for that thread link ... would the diagram/instructions be the same?
I don't think it's related to the work I did on the plugs/wires/distributor cap/rotor. They re-changed the plugs at the repair shop. If I can change this ERG myself I'm going to try it. I found the fuel pump online for $267 after I paid $409 at the repair shop (not including labor).
Thanks for the replies!
I wasn't trying to be rude, I know that everyone has that one mechanic that they know and trust... By that is some of them work, reel you in with some honest work and then take you for a ride from there on out (not saying that this place is, I don't know). As far as testing the EGR it should be the same. If you plan on doing work yourself it wouldn't be a bad Idea to pick up some sort of manual for the car. By the way you should be able to find the part out there. Here is the valve and here is the gasket
In my personal opinion it was never anything to do with the fuel system.
__________________
1998 Senra SE
(Need I say 5 speed?)
Advanced timing, Stillen G load Brace, B&M short shift kit
Last edited by CHRIS/SR/SE : Dec 1st, 2004 at 11:46 AM.
I didn't think you were being rude. I don't completely trust this shop. I've only bought tires there before. They seem nice and my friend has gone there 7 years and swears by them. They didn't charge me anything and didn't seem intrested in getting the car back in the shop with this EGR thing ... wanted me to try and leave it for a bit and if it coded again or if I can't stand the rough idle anymore to bring it in.
Thanks for carparts.com ... it has the cheapest EGR valve that I could find online (looked all day while @ work).
I'm going to photo under the hood and point out a hose which the mechanic clamped with his hands and showed me how the idle went almost to normal when it was clamped. He said that with the EGR codes makes him think it's either not seated correctly or needs replacement.
I used to have a .pdf guide for my car, but I can't find it right now. I was thinking of getting a subscription to ALL DATA DIY and emailed them asking if they cover EGR replacement/repair.
I agree with the fuel system and don't know why the fuel pump needed replacement. I do know that the RPMs are back to normal after it was replaced. I honestly don't know if they screwed me or not. I really want to get a guide and try to start doing the work myself.
I bought a PCV valve to replace the original one (4 years old) but cannot find where it goes. Can someone direct me? Here are the other under hood images ...
I bought a PCV valve to replace the original one (4 years old) but cannot find where it goes. Can someone direct me? Here are the other under hood images ...
I believe that is the hose where you PCV valve connects to. At the top of the engine, the valve should be right there after you pull the hose. I don't have the same engine, but it looks like it.
The PCV valve on the 95-99 2.0's is on the passenger side of the the engine bay. It screws into the valve cover, If you want to see the simalarities download the pdf on the B14 Section. I don't want to lead you down the wrong path seeing as I don't own a B15 Sr20De
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1998 Senra SE
(Need I say 5 speed?)
Advanced timing, Stillen G load Brace, B&M short shift kit
Last edited by CHRIS/SR/SE : Dec 2nd, 2004 at 08:52 AM.
SUPRISE! Coolant started coming out of the hose! I capped the end where the hose goes to and turned the hose up and started the engine ... more fluid comes out. Ok so something isn't right. I return everything back to normal because blocking the coolant isn't going to help anything related to the EGR, correct? I'm looking for an AIR hose to block, which there aren't any going to my EGR. I think my next step is to just purchase that plate and block off the air to the EGR or just get a new EGR.
dude you got taken for a ride. that isn't your egr valve. there is no coolant going to your egr valve. you never had a problem with you fuel pump, as far as i can tell. it wasn't the rough idle. the fuel pump may have been on the way out, and they took a guess at it and that wasn't it. first off the low idle was probably just an adjustment. second the rough idle could be the egr valve, could be those POS champion plugs. get a set of ngk plugs. i think the part # is bkr6e for copper plugs and bkr6e-11 for platinums. use manufacturer reccomended parts and you will not have to chase down as many problems. if they got codes for the egr valve, you can get away with cleaning out the system if the solenoid still works sometimes. check sr20forum.com and read the idle sticky
Rough Idle & Start problems
Linear Mode
