I ended up with a damaged motor after the timing chain jumped..156k miles. (Only the last 6k by me..) The JDM replacement is MUCH better..and after pricing replacement parts, like timing chain, guides, tensioner, and the headwork that was suspected to be needed..like valves, the replacement motor was definitely the way to go...one old one out..one different one in...NO PROBLEM!!
A week or days before did you hear or feel something before your chain jump?
For the lower guides, you will have to pull out the motor. Not an easy task at all! So to answer your question, its not worth the time to replace the other guides. Just get another motor if you decide that its time your current motor retired.
Hello. I just wanted to say great guide to taking the chain guide out! I have a question or two regarding that. I too have a rattling noise when the car idles and when I step on the gas. A mechanic friend said it's probably the tensioner, which you said is one of the options as to the rattling. I have a 96 200sx, and it's at around 167000 miles. My questions are this-what further steps are necessary to take the tensioner out and replaced from where you were in the guide> Also, with the high mileage on the car, would you suggest I replace the chains, since we will be in there anyway? Oh, and a third question-do you, or anyone know if the rattling of the chain area can contribute to premature distrubutor failure? Over the last 4 months, I have had to have about 3 distributors replaced on my car, as usually the rotor goes first, but this last time, just this last Thursday, the distributor went again. Thanks for your help.
Hello. I just wanted to say great guide to taking the chain guide out! I have a question or two regarding that. I too have a rattling noise when the car idles and when I step on the gas. A mechanic friend said it's probably the tensioner, which you said is one of the options as to the rattling. I have a 96 200sx, and it's at around 167000 miles. My questions are this-what further steps are necessary to take the tensioner out and replaced from where you were in the guide> Also, with the high mileage on the car, would you suggest I replace the chains, since we will be in there anyway? Oh, and a third question-do you, or anyone know if the rattling of the chain area can contribute to premature distrubutor failure? Over the last 4 months, I have had to have about 3 distributors replaced on my car, as usually the rotor goes first, but this last time, just this last Thursday, the distributor went again. Thanks for your help.
I would suggest that you get the Nissan Factory Service Manual for good, detailed instructions as to how to go about removing the tensioner. There is a write-up on http://www.se-r.net about this too. Here's the link:
One thing I would do a little different than what is recommended is that after removing the old tensioner and installing the new one in, simply put the car in fifth gear and push it a few feet (with the car turned completely off). This'll help the tensioner pop in correctly.
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"The greatest trick the devil ever pulled was convincing the world he didn't exist".
I would use a 27mm socket on the crank pulley bolt to turn the motor to releash the tensioner instead of pushing the car. If you take the car out of gear, it isn't hard to do.
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Eric
1991 Sentra SE-R
1996 200SX SE-R (VE powered)
2004 Forester turbo
Should the timing chain tensioner also be replaced if you are going to carry out this alteration? I mean if the chain has slacked enough to be hitting the guides then it must have a higher chance of skipping a tooth and causing havoc in the engine. I know they stopped putting the upper guide on models from about 95' due to a larger and more advanced timing chain tensioner. Would this not be wise? Also would it not be better to put the bolts back in after removing the guide so not to leave small holes for oil to accumulate in?
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