info on throttle body swaps and Z32 MAf

Se-Rkid2012 · Nov 30th, 2003, 04:11 PM

Looking to upgrade my sr, was wondering if there were any ways to swap throttle bodies, like maybe off of a Ka24 or vg30. what i'm looking to do is get a Z32 mass airflow sensor, and either get a s-afc, or a Jwt ecu and have it programmed to run that. also i plan on installing a 91 intake cam. Any ideas, comments? i need to know because everyone i know only knows about turbo SR's not the usdm front wheels.

se-r-57 · Dec 1st, 2003, 06:37 AM

Save your money. The stock MAF is good for 250 WHP or a little more and the throttle body is way more than that. The money would be better spent elsewhere.

toolapcfan · Dec 1st, 2003, 10:56 AM

Agreed. The Z32 should only be necessary when you're putting down tons of power and you'll need an ECU reprogram to run it as well.

sersr20dk · Dec 1st, 2003, 07:09 PM

i also agree, would be a waste of money to do either at this point

Se-Rkid2012 · Dec 2nd, 2003, 12:54 AM

ok so the g20 is good and it gives me the 7500 redline and no fuel cut right? and when i install the cam it should perform the way it needs to right? i also know a guy who has a set of jdm 10:1 pistons that i was thinking about buying for the motor, i know the 91 motors had those same pistons so with the ecu cam and piston it should give me more power right? i'm just not sure what subtle differences that the 95 motors have than the sr's before those.

se-r-57 · Dec 2nd, 2003, 06:23 AM

The 91 cam and G20 ECU will wake the car up a lot. The pistons in the 91 are 9.5 just like the ones in your 95. Going up a half a point in compression wouldn't be worth the trouble. Look at intake and exhaust for more gains.

Se-Rkid2012 · Dec 2nd, 2003, 03:34 PM

i already knew about the 91 intake cam, but i figured that the g20 ecu was the same as mine, but it being infiniti i should have guessed that it wouldn't have all the limiters and stuff. So if i were to get a 91 intake cam i would need to get a 91-94 ecu right? the only reason why i was thinking about the pistons is i know a guy who has 3 jdm sr20de's with various things wrong with them and he is giving me a deal on all the parts. i want to get a jdm sr, but i don't have the time and have no where to install it. and in regards to the intake i've got a hotshot CAI on order as well as headers, but not sure what is a good exhaust becuase my choices are limited.

toolapcfan · Dec 2nd, 2003, 03:44 PM

No, you'll run your ECU or the G20 ECU. Putting in a highport cam, or any cams for that matter, don't require any ECU reprogramming.

Se-Rkid2012 · Dec 5th, 2003, 01:05 AM

well i'm definately going to do the g20 ecu because i want the higher redline, and no fuel cut. as soon as i pay off my credit card lol i'm going to take the head and have it re-done because i'm about to hit 100k miles so i figure why not. i'm sure my seals and stuff are bad so when i get that cam put in i'm going to have the head re done. a freind of mine just threw 5 of the 8 rockers and i don't feel like having that happen to me. expecially since i'm going ot be making cannonball runs home from tampa lol.

egizle6 · Mar 28th, 2004, 09:37 AM

What about using the GTI-R ITB setup over a bigger TB? Just ditch the plenum and throw some stacks on it?

se-r-57 · Mar 28th, 2004, 09:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by egizle6

What about using the GTI-R ITB setup over a bigger TB? Just ditch the plenum and throw some stacks on it?

The GTI-R intake manifold won't bolt up to the de head.

D-Cell · Mar 28th, 2004, 02:33 PM

DPR can modify the DE head to accept the ITB's. You'd be better off having a short runner intake manifold made, 64-70mm TB. As far as larger MAF, put your stock MAF as close to your air filter as possible. There are harmonic reasonings behind it that I'd rather not get into. Yes, you do have to extend the MAF wires. Yes, one of the wires is shielded. Strip the shielding off, put aluminum foil in place of the stripped shielding when your finished. You the same gauge wire if possible, bigger is OK. Never go smaller (numerically higher). You will change resistance, which will affect sensor voltage output.
If your really bored, you could buy a Dremel polishing kit and smooth the interior of the MAF sensor body (after removing the MAF sensor, of course). You could finish the day by adjusting your TPS sensor to factory specs. Enjoy.

lshadoff · Mar 28th, 2004, 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by D-Cell

As far as larger MAF, put your stock MAF as close to your air filter as possible. There are harmonic reasonings behind it that I'd rather not get into. Yes, you do have to extend the MAF wires. Yes, one of the wires is shielded. Strip the shielding off, put aluminum foil in place of the stripped shielding when your finished. You the same gauge wire if possible, bigger is OK. Never go smaller (numerically higher). You will change resistance, which will affect sensor voltage output.

Please explain the reasoning for moving the MAF. It is well documented that if the air filter is bolted directly to the MAF, there are turbulence problems that affect the functioning of the MAF, and the A/F mixture is not properly conrolled. The JWT POP Charger has an adaptor to reduce this turbulence.

A CAI with the MAF in the middle (approximately) has power gains due to the added length of the intake causing resonant standing waves at approximately 1500, 3000, 4500, and 6000 rpm. The rpm for resonant enhancement is mainly dependant on the length of the intake and can be calculated from the formula for an open end pipe resonant frequency found in a freshman physics textbook. The position of the MAF has only a minor effect on this.

As for the shielded wire, it is used to prevent stray fields form distorting the signal. A ghetto fix using aluminum foil has the potential for problems in the future. Invest in decent shielded cable and do a proper splice of the signal and shield.

Lew