cam install-boned up the tensioner - GURU HELP ASAP!!
Can anybody please please please help me?!
Here's the deal.
Installing the 91 cam, I ziped the cam gears in place, jamed my wood block into the chain tensioner and pulled the cam. Then I put the new cam in, and all the towers, etc...
Started to pull the cam gear over the cam, and out popped my wood block. I look down into where the tensioner is, and the shaft that has ridges on it that pushes against the lower chain gaurd has pushed all the way out! I mean ALL THE WAY OUT!
Like at any moment it may fall into the engine area... HOW DO I GET THAT BACK IN?! I grabbed the little hook latch with a pair of needle-nose pliers and tried to push it back in, but it wont go. Now what do I do? I'm freaking out, this is my only car for now! HELP HELP HELP!
Anybody who has a FSM, please scan a diagram or advice or something! If I pull it out completely and run without it, what will happen?
How in the heck does the oil filter come off?! Cant get to it with a wrench - so how do you guys do it?
I ask because I'm removing it to take out the tensioner. I Ordered a new tensioner already - 39.95. I guess I'll leave that pin in the bottom of the motor - unless someone says otherwise.
Do you think It will come out if I drain the oil? Thanks. I hate to be a pest, but I'm desperate now.
Last edited by Some Guy : Jul 28th, 2003 at 03:59 PM.
Calm down, you'll be fine, the tensioner won't fall into your engine. And as far as that little pin goes, it's not going to make it into any oil journals or anything because the oil pump screen will keep it out. You'll find it in a future oil change. If you can't get the filter off by hand then use the cap style socket that goes on the end of it, or use a large pair of channel locks to get it started. There's two 10mm nuts that hold the tensioner in and they have lock washers behind them, so try not to loose those. Be careful not to bend up the metal washer that fits between the tensioner and the block either, but if you slide it off the threaded studs, then the tensioner will come out easier. Good thing you ordered a new tensioner, because you'll never get that one back in with it fully extended like that, and you can't compress it and lock it if that pin is gone. Be sure to soak the tensioner in a cup of clean motor oil for a minute before you put it in. Once you put the new tensioner in tighten it down and if the hook doesn't come off that's ok, just manually crank the engine using a socket on the crank pulley nut. If the doesn't drop the hook off, then use a long straightbalde scredriver to carefully knock the hook off the pin. Then manually crank the engine several times so the tensioner fully extends. I didn't have enough stud length to put the nuts and washers both on, so I had to put a nut on and crank it down until I had enough length on the other stud to fit a lock washer and nut on it. Tightened that one down and took the first one back off, put the washer on and the nut back on. Then I tightened them both down. Also, I hope you put your cam in while the #1 was at TDC because if you didn't, your valve timing will be out of whack and you could bend a valve. If you need more help call me at 402-321-5206.
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Rob '93 SE-R
PM or e-mail me for Progress swaybars $190 shipped, B13 Progress coilovers $1300 shipped and B13 Progress LCA brace $160 shipped.
Last edited by toolapcfan : Jul 28th, 2003 at 04:10 PM.
you could pull the oil pan to get that part out if it fell all the way down. if the methods to get the oil filter off that tool mentioned dont work...the good ole messy hammer and screwdriver method will do it....it sucks ass though bad memories
or get a size B oil filter socket.. i picked one up at walmart for $3, then use fram's sure grip filters so it doesn't happen again. thats why i took my tensioner out the whole way.. easist of all of the options
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-- Howard
-- Aim: Superbrd15
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I was looking at the replacement oilpan I just bought today, and unless that pin damn near floats, it's not going to come out in an oil change I don't think. There's too much uphill movement it'd have to take to get out of the drain hole. If you're worried about it then pull the lower oilpan off and hopefully it's in there. If not, then it's still up further in the engine, could be in the upper oilpan.
I know they cost a lot, but the K&N oil filters have that hex on the end that you can use a wrench or socket to get the thing off. Make sure if you do that screwdriver method that you punch your hole as far back on the filter as you can, that metal nozzle sticks in the filter pretty far.
__________________
Rob '93 SE-R
PM or e-mail me for Progress swaybars $190 shipped, B13 Progress coilovers $1300 shipped and B13 Progress LCA brace $160 shipped.