I need some help badly :(

toolapcfan · Apr 27th, 2003, 03:02 PM

I think my timing chain skipped a tooth when I put my new tensioner in yesterday. After I started the car up after having put it in, the car would barely run, it runs rough, idles is quick grunts and the timing is retarded. I had to back the idle screw damn near all the way out to keep it running. What do I need to do to get the crank and valves back into sync? My FSM doesn't give me the specifics I need to fix this, like how to find TDC, then how to adjust the valves accordingly, etc.

gsr20det · Apr 29th, 2003, 04:57 PM

It's not simple without taking off the cover, but if you skipped a tooth it's on the top between the cams most likely.

The FSM does tell you how many links there are between the cams, check that first.

I know for a fact that it can take as many as 63 turns of the motor to get the marks on the chain lined up just right (silver marks on the dots). You don't need to do this to get the motor lined up, but it helps. However, you will not be able to see the gold link on the dot on the crank unless you pull the front cover. This is a job that totally sucks, btw.

To get the motor to TDC, pull spark plug #1 and gently put a long entension down the hole into the cylinder. Make sure it is perpendicular to the top of the piston so it doesn't bind, and turn the motor over by hand (easiest with all of the spark plugs out, just crank it by the bolt on the main pulley) until it has gotten to the top of the stroke. You can ballpark this with the marks on the pulley, but use the entension to verify you are there. Pull the valve cover and the lobes for cylinder #1 should be at 10 o'clock on the intake and 3 o'clock on the exhaust cam. see if there's the correct number of links between the dots on the cam sproket (I think it's 19). The chain can not skip a tooth over the crank, it's usually the exhaust that jumps counter clockwise.

All this being said, skipping a tooth usually doesn't make the car run like shit. It does loose some power, and the emissions go through the roof, but a rough idle it shouldn't have. The timign being all jacked up is a sign that the cams skipped a tooth though...

Good luck!

Tom

Ickys SE-R · Apr 30th, 2003, 08:53 AM

I think mine skipped a tooth on it's own.One day i just noticed it wants to idle at 1k rpm..But it had no puttin or lag..I adjusted my idle screw and the best I cant get now is 950rpm...Someone said mybe even MAF..

cademetz · Apr 30th, 2003, 12:35 PM

Not 100% related, but just a word of advice, anytime you pull the timing cover off and are playing around with cams, etc, get some plastic ties and tie the cam gears to the chain... I did this when replacing my intake cam and had zero problems.

SRV1 · May 1st, 2003, 12:01 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by toolapcfan
I think my timing chain skipped a tooth when I put my new tensioner in yesterday. After I started the car up after having put it in, the car would barely run, it runs rough, idles is quick grunts and the timing is retarded. I had to back the idle screw damn near all the way out to keep it running. What do I need to do to get the crank and valves back into sync? My FSM doesn't give me the specifics I need to fix this, like how to find TDC, then how to adjust the valves accordingly, etc.

Your chain may be off(off timing). The timing chain has 3 slightly different colored links. you have to count from one to another and they have to be in a cerain order. You need a very good manual if you are doing the job yourself.

James

toolapcfan · May 1st, 2003, 12:20 AM

Well I fixed it this evening. Thanks gsr20det, you're absolutely right. The chain can't skip on the intake or crank gears, there isn't enough room. So if your valve timing is ever off because the cahin slipped, it was on the exhaust cam gear and like gsr20det said, it's going to be off counterclockwise. For future reference, if you're putting in a timing chain tensioner do yourself a few favors to avoid the problems I had. 1) take the VC off so you can see if the hook unlatches, which it likely won't. I know the FSM says that after tightening it down it will unlatch; well, after having had my tensioner in and out almost 5 times during this whole mess, it never unlatched on its own except when the valve timing was off. If the valves are where they should be, it won't unlatch itself. I had to use a long screwdriver to release the catch. 2) Crank the engine manualy on the crank bolt to allow the tensioner to fully extend before you finish up and start the car.
So to sum it all up, when the #1 cylinder is at TDC on the compression stoke (both cam lobes facing away from each other), the exhaust cam dowel pin is at 12:00 and the intake is at 10:00. (like gsr20det stated). There should be 20 pins between the timing marks on the gears. Thanks again for your help guys.

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