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SR-Series Engines (DE/VE) Engine Discussion: G20, 91-94 Sentra SE-R, NX2K, 95-98 200SX SE-R, 98-01 Sentra SE

       
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Old Apr 10th, 2003, 09:46 PM   #1 (permalink)
lovemyser
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Free Jdm Exhaust Manifold

Free JDM tubular equal length exhaust manifold to the person who can solve this cooling problem. Shipping and handling not included.

For some info search my last thread "Cooling problem...on my last leg".

Ok guys, One basic fact engine NOT COOLING PROPERLY.
Please no replys thats already been said in my last thread.

When run with no thermostat it stays right in the middle at 170 degrees...Sometimes it gets hot but I rigged the fans to kick on when I tell them to.
With thermostat in it heats up quick and stays that way about 230degrees, even with heat on and everything.

Got a New water pump and its getting good strong pressure in the hoses.


1st question...How often do the fans kick on in a sr20de?
2nd question...Could it be another faulty Coolant fan switch?
3rd question...Could it be a cloged radiater? It seems to flow fine thru radiater cap to bottom hose.


Brand new Coolant temp gauge,Coolant fan switch, Nissan thermostat ,and water pump.

I mean what I say about the manifold. Depending on how I'm funded when I fix the problem I might even pay the shipping.

I will also leave my aol instant messanger on for any direct questions. My call name is"andymuffins"
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ACT Clutch and pressure plate, Redline Shockproof
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Old Apr 10th, 2003, 10:16 PM   #2 (permalink)
dreadsword
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I went through similar issues on my old Dodge Colt. Weird cyclical overheating, etc. Head gasket was blown... what shape is yours in? Is their coolant in your oil or oil in your coolant? I Googled up some material for you... take a read over. Chances are I'm out on a limb here, but it sounds like you've covered the rest of the bases.

First Link: a toplevel overview
http://www.troubleshooters.com/overheatdiag.txt

Second Link: a lot more detailed. I walked through the "Mental Model of the Cooling System" and it sounds like you've addressed each item, except the Head Gasket.
http://www.troubleshooters.com/tprom....htm#_strategy

Third Link: Good suggestion here - if a dead thermostat or something caused your car to overheat once, the initial overhead may have ruined your head gasket or warped the head so that it won't seat properly. Bottom line is that an initial overhead can spawn future overheats even if the initial problem is fixed.
http://www.autoeducation.com/autoshop101/cooling.htm

Fourth Link: a great document about Head Gaskets - quite the miracle of gasket engineering.
http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/pre...m_failures.htm

Anyway... to quote one of the above, an overheated engine can kill a head gasket, but a dead head gasket can also overheat an engine.

Hopefully this helps, or at least give you a new direction to try. Good luck!

Oh - this was the Google search I did: http://www.google.ca/search?q=head+g...-8&hl=en&meta=
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Old Apr 10th, 2003, 11:00 PM   #3 (permalink)
B132nr
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Maybe you should try a compression test on all the cylinders. I am working on a escort right now and the head gasket is blown and cylinders 2 & 3 have no compression. But If the car runs it must be getting compression. I'm just throwing this out there.
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Old Apr 10th, 2003, 11:44 PM   #4 (permalink)
lovemyser
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Ok guys thanx for the detailed replys.

To address your questions. The car runs like a top. REAL strong probably run high 14's low 15's.

Absoulutly no water or coolant in oil. Or oil in coolant. But I will still read your addresses thanx again.

P.S. If it runs like a top could I still have a a blown headgasket?
Thanks
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ACT Clutch and pressure plate, Redline Shockproof
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Old Apr 11th, 2003, 01:44 AM   #5 (permalink)
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The Colt that died from the head gasket "ran" fine - i.e.: driving performance was as dismal as usual, idled fine, nothing out of the ordinary. It would blow white smoke (burning oil) under load, however.

So - give the strength and boostability of the SR20 with stock head gasket, I don't think it would be blown unless you saw one of the following:

Oil in coolant or vice versa, which you haven't seen.
Burning oil or coolant in significant quantities - i.e.: are the levels dropping even though you don't have any leaks?
White smoke under load - might want to get someone to launch the car so you can watch the exhaust.

So... ??? Maybe the new thermostat you got was a dud too? Water pump is good, rad is good, head gasket is good, fans work - its got to be the coolant/fan switch or thermostat - this system just isn't complex enough for it to be anything else.

Incidentally, I'm GA16DE - so I'm not in this for the manifold - I'm just sympathetic and puzzled.

Thinking cap remains on...
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Old Apr 11th, 2003, 04:06 AM   #6 (permalink)
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You have done so much so far, a really easy way to see if your radiator is clogged, pull your hoses, and pute a garden hose in the top and let it flow, If you are not getting the same in and out, mite want to get it boiled and rodded, As well make sure your hoses arent kinkt any, make sure they are open and in good form.

If anything i say helps cool, if i solve anything i dont want your stuff, hope your ride gets better.

Yes, could run good with blown head gasket, but, you would have either water inthe oil, or you would be burning white smoke out the exhaust. By the way, what temp thermostat are you running? stock is 170, i replaced myne and it is now running a 180. Are you running after market exhaust or something custom?
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Old Apr 11th, 2003, 04:09 AM   #7 (permalink)
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One more thing, mke sure that the rods in the radiator, the little lines through out the actual block are clear, are you running a automatic trans? Is the heat up at idle or only under load driving?

I have a decent amount of exsperience with heating problems, Give me a in "aol" Gumper440
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Old Apr 11th, 2003, 05:31 PM   #8 (permalink)
lovemyser
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I have a manual trans.

I'm am going to have the radiater boiled and rodded monday.

Could that be the problem.

Come on guys help me out.

Andy
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Old Apr 15th, 2003, 12:50 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Let me know how it turns out.
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Old Apr 15th, 2003, 08:36 AM   #10 (permalink)
johnnykomac
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i told you its the radiator...... its just not as efficient as it used to be.
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Old Apr 15th, 2003, 12:54 PM   #11 (permalink)
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What about a trash filled coolant line through the block?
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Old Apr 15th, 2003, 04:12 PM   #12 (permalink)
93nx16
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NOt to sound stupid but could you have installed the thermostat in backwards. If it is cooling with out it and messes up with it installed it sounds like the thermostat.

Just my $.02
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Old Apr 16th, 2003, 02:25 PM   #13 (permalink)
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No way have you ever seen how big the thermostat is? there is no chance at all to do that. Just if case, if you could get it it there, there would be no way at all that you could get the thermostat cover over and installed, bolted and sealed!
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Old Apr 16th, 2003, 10:46 PM   #14 (permalink)
lovemyser
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Definitly not the radiater. I had it boiled and rodded and the dude said great flow already. So I'm thinking now its an optimistic temp gauge in the cluster. Is that possible? Since the fans are not coming on the gauge may be lying to me. But the ECU may be getting a good reading.

How would I get an aftermarket gauge on it? Any Ideas?!?!
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Deleted everything that envolves emissions
ACT Clutch and pressure plate, Redline Shockproof
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Old Apr 16th, 2003, 10:48 PM   #15 (permalink)
lovemyser
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By the way. The block seems to be getting a good solid flow thru all of the pipes. To anwser the other question.
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