I drive a 1998 200SX SE-r, with 48k miles. Last week, I received the service engine soon light, so I extracted the code and the code is: 0215 EVAP canister vent control valve closed . I had to do some intense searches to find this trouble code description. This code, 0215, is not listed in the Haynes manual for my car and is not on any lists that I searched online. It turns out that this code is specific for California emissions Nissan vehicles! Figures, since I purchased my car in California.
Anyways, does anyone know if there is something I can do to resolve this trouble code without buying any parts? When I fill up at a gas station, the pump keeps stopping after 5 seconds. It is caused by the trouble code, I'm sure.
I did a search here and on SR20DEforum.com and didn't see any good information related to this issue.
BTW, here is the MIL Trouble Code list that I found that lists a few more codes (including California) than the Haynes manual. It matches up to the Haynes manual PLUS the addition of Cali codes for my 1998 200SX SE-R:
1996-on OBD-II fault codes:
0101 Camshaft position sensor (CMP) or circuit fault
0102 Mass airflow (MAF) sensor and/or circuit fault
0103 Electronic coolant temperature (ECT) sensor fault
0104 Vehicle speed sensor (VSS) fault
0111 EVAP purge flow monitor fault (California)
0114 System adaptive fuel too rich
0115 System adaptive fuel too lean
0201 Ignition signal primary circuit fault
0203 Closed throttle position switch fault
0205 Air idle control (IAC) valve fault
0213 EVAP system small leak (California)
0214 EVAP canister purge volume control valve fault (California)
0215 EVAP canister vent control valve closed (California)
0301 PCM read only memory (ROM) test error
0302 EGR insufficient flow detected
0303 Upstream heated O2 sensor fault
0304 Knock sensor (KS) fault
0305 EGR temperature (EGRT) sensor fault
0306 EGR excessive flow detected
0307 Closed loop control fault
0309 EVAP canister vent control valve open (California)
0311 Vacuum cut valve bypass valve fault (California)
0312 EVAP canister purge control valve solenoid valve fault (California)
0401 Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor
0402 Fuel tank temperature sensor (California)
0403 Throttle position sensor (TPS)
0409 Upstream heated O2 sensor slow response fault
0410 Upstream heated O2 sensor rich shift monitor fault
0411 Upstream heated O2 sensor lean shift monitor fault
0412 Upstream heated O2 sensor high voltage fault
0503 Upstream heated O2 sensor fault
0505 No faults
0510 Downstream heated O2 sensor maximum voltage monitor fault
0511 Downstream heated O2 sensor minimum voltage monitor fault
0512 Downstream heated O2 sensor high voltage fault
0514 EGR high flow detected
Well if anybody knows that, can you help me out with my lil error code. It says I should take it into the dealership. But I really dont want to do that if I dont have to.
0111 EVAP purge flow monitoring system
Have the vehicle diagnosed by a dealer service department.
Ok I found out how to get mine diagnosed. There is a leak somewhere in my e vap system. Im going to hook up a smoker to my fuel system, and check for leaks.
To test your vent control valve you just disconnect it and put 12v power to it and see if it moves properly. Behind your driver side rear tire there is a charcoal canister. on the front of it is your vent control valve. It has 1 electrical connector and 1 hose going to it. To remove it there is just 2 10mm bolts. Now put to wires to the pins coming out of the control valve and put the wires to your car battery to see if it works right. Look into it and you will see a valve that should move when power goes to it. Chances are, you need a vent control valve. Up here in the north, they start to rust and cause the valve to not work. If you don't replace this you will notice your car will start running funny and may be hard to start. It is not uncommon for this to happen.
Thanks, BORNGEARHEAD.
Does anyone have a part number associated with the Vent Control Valve for a 1998 200SX SE-R? I've searched all over the place to find the part, but all I can find are EGR valves and BPT valves or the whole canister itself. Does it come with the canister?
Be careful if you get this. There might be 2 different vent control valves to choose from. The difference is, either the vent control valve is flush to the charcoal canister or it has an o-ring and goes into the canister. I would highly recommend 1 from the dealer. You may want to take the control valve with you when you go to the dealer so they can match it up. May be a bit pricey BUT needed.
i have the same problem w/ my b14... when filling up, gas pump shuts off every 5 seconds... trouble code 0214 instead of 0215 tho...
reliable source claims i need a new gas tank.... sux ass
Yea, I found the part last week thanks to members of this forum. I ordered it and should be coming in a few days, all for around $35, shipped.
To get rid of the MIL light, you will have to get to your onboard computer, which is located to the right of the gas pedal by your feet inside the car. You will have to remove the plastic cover (there are two plastic screwy things, and two nuts). It's a little tricky to get to the nuts, but I used an angled wrench and it worked. Pop off the plastic cover. You'll have to force it off the hump of the computer. Once the cover is off, you will be able to move the computer off the floor and I find it works best to move it towards the passenger side. Look at the back of the computer and you should see a screw that is behind a plastic see-thru sticker. You will need a flat-head screwdriver. Remove the plastic sitcker thing but don't do anything. Put your keys into the ignition, and turn it to the ON position, which is as far as you can turn it without starting the car. Now, go back to the computer, find the screw, grab your screwdriver, and turn the screw carefully clockwise until you feel a slight pressure. Do not turn it past the pressure point. Hold it here for at least two seconds, and then turn the screw counter-clockwise until the original pressure point. Now, look at your MIL light, you should see it blinking. This is the error code. To clear the MIL light, turn the screw clockwise again to the pressure point, wait a few seconds, and then turn it back counter-clockwise back to the original pressure point. Turn your ignition key to the OFF position and then start your car. The MIL light should have gone away.
There's actually a few posts that explains this process. I'm just regurgitating this info to you. Hope this helps!
Thanks. I did run a search on "reset AND MIL", but it didn't yield any results on how to reset the ECU. It did run me across this thread, which was very coincidental as I replaced the VCV about 1/2 hr. before my search for a reset procedure :-)
1998 Nissan Altima GXE engine KA24DE (in Canada)
Hello all,
On my car a Solenoid Valve located approx. 10 inches from Evaporation Canister and near the Gas Tank was rusty and leaking. This valve has two parallel vacuum hoses side by side connected to it. It also has electrical connector which is removed by squizing (not lifting) the tab.
Steady light “service engine soon” was on the dash board. I purchased and replaced the solenoid valve Nissan part number 14933-54U00 ($ 156. Canadian including taxes).
Then to get rid of steady light” service engine soon” I followed the insructions provided. Thanks
On my car when I removed only one plastic cover (just to the right of gas pedal) the computer screw covered with see-tru sticker was right there exposed.
I did the following and worked great:
1. Turned ignition key to ON (not far to start engine)
2. Turned the screw on computer with small screwdriver CW
to stopand left it there for approx. 10 seconds (be gentle
do not force).
3. Turned screw CCW to stop and left it there for approx. 10
seconds and light was blinking.
4. Turned screw again CW to stop for approx. 10 seconds.
5. Turned screw CCW to stop again and left it there.
6. Removed the key and few seconds later started the engine.
For a few minutes the light was blinking but then all was stabilized and light was gone.
I hope this helps to someone else.
Milan
Mine was all rusty on the inside when i took it off and it was defiantly stuck so i just messed with it put some WD-40 and kept hooking it up to the battery untill it clicked and i would also force it with a screwdirver up and down to make sure the WD-40 would get every where after about 5 min the valve was working by it self. took about 15 min to get it out and to fix it and put it back. i attached some mini crimps along w/ wires to the little prongs at the end of the connector when i was testing it. worked out ok and its been like that for 3 months no MIL and no problem at the gas station. If it goes out agian ill try to fix it and if its still busted get a new one. The worst case senario is that you have to go and buy a new one.
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