Anyone know if this problem is at all associated with bad gas mileage?
Dont know why but yes it is. i did notice gas mileage going down. Gas goes right back to normal when fixed
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Are those the 2 nuts that need to be removed?..If so they're giving me a hard time. Also, this should be the same for the ga16 as well as the sr20 i'd assume.
those are it. be careful because if strip them then you have to get the whole box. once they are out dont be afriad to pull out its stuck on there with an o ring so it might be a little hard to budge good luck
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Nitrous is like a hot girl with STD's you wana hit it but are afraid of the consequences.
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Sorry bout all the questions but I have another... These bolts are supposed to completely come off right? They'll spin and spin but won't come out, am I doing something wrong here?
They are suposed to come right off. They did for me
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1998 Nissan Altima GXE engine KA24DE (in Canada)
After replacement of Solenoid Valve located approx. 10 inches from Evaporation Canister and near the Gas tank and when I've got rid of steady light” service engine soon” the gas mileage improved very much.
Milan
sup guys, I'm driveway from the teckademics forums and I need a little help from you nice nissan folks:
I have a 97 200Sx with the sr20de motor, I have the same problem except my car does not have the box behind the left rear wheel. mine has a round charcoal canister next to the left front strut tower under the hood. I went to the dealer to get the part that the code told me I needed and they gave me part #14935-54U04 but there is nothing similar to the part on my car that I can find?
anybody have any ideas as to why mine is different than what I read about in this thread?
btw mischief V Dynasty is in the stores now for any mischief fans that might be here.....
I'm looking for a BPT valve for my 200sx. Do you remember where you were finding them? I've been looking for a while, and havent been able to find one anywhere.
My valve was stuck open. I had no problems except the MIL. I took the valve off the canister and cleaned it out with WD40. I put the valve back on and reset the ECU.
Can this EVAP issue with vent control valve being closed be dangerous if car is driven for a while while the problem is happening? I've been driving my 200SX SE with that condition for almost two years......It's getting to the point where I dread the day that I have to get gas.....and not because of the price, but because my car rejects the gas pump 5 seconds after every pump at the station.
I was wondering if this kind of malfunction while driving can perhaps cause an explosion or something (God forbid if something that horrible happens). It scares me to think about it.
Can this EVAP issue with vent control valve being closed be dangerous if car is driven for a while while the problem is happening? I've been driving my 200SX SE with that condition for almost two years......It's getting to the point where I dread the day that I have to get gas.....and not because of the price, but because my car rejects the gas pump 5 seconds after every pump at the station.
I was wondering if this kind of malfunction while driving can perhaps cause an explosion or something (God forbid if something that horrible happens). It scares me to think about it.
If you pull the nozzle half-way out it will fill anyway, i have been driving my sentra with this condition for over three years, and i reset my ecu to pass emissions testing.. the nozzle trick seems to work for me
I replaced the whole canister and valve since they are cracked from an accident. The two parts are from a junk yard, only $40. No need to handle the o-ring between the two. No need to use torque wrench.
The 'service engine' light goes away after I reset ECU using OBDII reader I borrowed from AutoZone. The OBDII reader has a "erase" button which clears all codes in ECU, I think. much easier than hacking the onboard computer yourself.
Looks like I should've researched this thread before doing anything.....My check engine soon light came on on my '01 Sentra SE, I was told there was a faulty vent control valve and canister that had to be replaced. $170 for the valve assembly, $290 for the canister assembly, $200 for labor at my local professional automechanic. How badly did I just get screwed? Of note, I am braindead about cars so I have no idea what I'm talking about.