Just out of curiousity, how many SR20 people are currently running the Unorthodox crank pulley? And, has anybody had any vibration problems or crankshaft problems?
Just curious, with all the talk I've been hearing about problems with UR pulleys on other vehicles. I know, I know - the SR20 is internally balanced, so maybe we're immune.
I've had them in my car for over 20K miles with no problems. I have nothing but good things to say about these pulleys. Engine is more responsive and my car feels good with the A/C on.
Well, in the case of my 4-pulley set, I would say yes and no.
For me, I wanted the look of having all the pulleys the same, so the extra cost was worth it for me. If you aren't worried about the underhood appearance of the engine, then the standard crank/water pump pulley set is definitely worth the money.
I don't know what the price is ranging for just the crank pulley, but I gave a little over $300 for the whole set through Dynamic Turbo in Miami.
JMHO, but I like having my clear-anodized pulleys staring you in the face when I open my hood. Probably looks faster than the HP you actually get, but... I guess this is my version of rice, since I wouldn't be caught dead w/ a VIS Omega front end on my car.
No flames...to each his own!
IMHO I don't think that the four pulley set is worth it or necessary. Just get the two pulley set. The majority of the horsepower freed up by the puleys comes from the crank pulley, not the other small ones. And the reason it is wise to get the water pump pulley is not for horsepower, but to avoid WP cavitation. This is realy good if you are going to be doing any sort of racing(auto-x or track events). Just my .02
Actually, the alternator pulley is the exact same size, if not minutely bigger, than the stock unit. It weighs next to nothing in comparison with the stock one. From what I have read about the alternator pulley, UR actually oversized it by about a few millimeters to help keep charging capacity at or near stock levels.
Like I said, the only reason I bought the additional pulleys is purely for looks. Rice or not, you make the call. But, my engine will look really trick once the HotShot header is installed. Shiny little bits of aluminum in a sea of black paint.
The performance enhancement is there, it's just not a huge gain. Butt dyno says it revs a little quicker, but then again I've still got the boat anchor flywheel on mine. When the clutch gives up the ghost, then on goes the Fidanza unit.... After almost 160k, I'm wondering how much is left of the stock clutch. I guess I'll find out soon enough, when the HP numbers continue to climb.
Read this on the se-r mailing list (digest version):
--__--__--
Message: 4
From: Christian Beaudry <christian.beaudry@TetraTec.qc.ca>
To: 'SE-R List' <se-r@lists.deskmedia.com>
Subject: UR Pulley's on newer SR engines.
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2002 16:04:35 -0500
Andreas Miko wrote this on sr20deforum.com :
"For all you SR20DE 2000-01, SR16VE and SR20VE owners, do not, I repeat, do
not put any type of aftermarket pullies on your crank. These motors have a 4
counter weight crank shaft that is prone to vibrations in the higher RPMs.
If you put a aftermarket pully that does not have a dampener in it like the
UR pullies you will have premature bearing wear in your motors and also you
can have problems with your clutch bolts or flywheel bolts coming loose. Be
my guest and f*** up your motors. "
Now I trust what he says, but Id like clarification.
Did nissan all of a suden decide to use different pulley's ?
Are the SR20's no longer internaly balanced ?
Or am I completly missing the point here... ?
Originally posted by jp314 Did nissan all of a suden decide to use different pulley's ?
Are the SR20's no longer internaly balanced ?
Or am I completly missing the point here... ?
Chris
All I know about late model SR20DE & VE motors is that they do NOT have a girdled crankshaft, and, IMHO, are not as structurally rigid as the pre-97 motors. Therefore, it is my guess that the crank is probably more prone to vibration (as said before) and even internal movement (commonly know as 'walking'). I would say that they are probably harder to internally balance because there is no girdle taking the thrust & cavitation out of the spinning assembly. Therefore, if you're gonna swap engines, I'd stick to early model motors. Sure, there is some windage loss from the girdle, but I have a lot of faith in a motor that revs like ours do, even at 160k like mine has on it.
I know that Honda B-series engines (no crank girdle, externally balanced) do not in any way tolerate underdrive pulleys w/o a great risk of internal engine damage. So, for once, we have a small advantage on the Hybrid boys.
Being a "Hybrid Boy", I'd like to let you know that the only B series engine without a block girdle is the NON VTEC motors... The Integra LS engine <b18a/b> and the CRV engine <b20b/z>.
Just a little FYI.
PLUS, the VTEC girdles, with just a little modification, will bolt up ont he NON VETC motors, as well.
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