I bought a classic 93 ser for 500 clams with"hole in the block" sickness. So I ordered a sr20 from soshen, an act clutch kit, timing chain, and everything I could think in the way of seals etc.
The problem is this got the engine today and noticed some things right away the distributer cap and its components are broken off the. the sensor on the intake butterfly(tps) is shattered. And theres, a what looks to be, a flex plate on the back I'm assuming the donor car was an auto.
Question
1) Where is a good site that details pictures and tips that would help me through the install?
2) can I use the JDM intake manifold or should I?
3) can I use the JDM exhaust manifold(I want to it is a very nicely crafted piece.)?
4) can I use the parts off my usdm motor to replace the broken ones.
5) Should I replace the timing chain?
I will say that I do not want to sacrifice drivability and that emissions are not a problem in my rural area.
I'm in the process of doing the swap right now. just took a little break. anyway
1) search on this site and sr20deforum.com, very useful stuff
2)yes, you can use the jdm intake manifold since you don't have emissions there like me.
3)some people say you could but i'm going to get the pacetter header. Also there's no O2 sensor whole to put the sensor in.
4)yes, you can swap the usdm part to the jdm motor.
5)thats up to you. i'm not, but i recommend to change the water pump while its out.
other than this everything is pretty straight foward. lot easier too, if there's someone else helping out. I'm doing this all by myself......
mike
Also where you located. i'm in wisconsin and f*&^n cold here....
you have to have the o2 sensor. also, if you use the jdm exhaust manifold then you will have to have a secondary pipe made to fit it since the us secondary won't fit. if you do go this route, have an o2 bung welded into the secondary where it becomes one pipe...this will give your car a better a/f ratio since its taking measurements of the whole exhaust and not just one runner. this is what i'm going to do. if you've got any questions, feel free to pm or email me. i did this swap also and its really not that hard. it took MAYBE 4 days total for it to run correctly. happy swapping! later.
Thanks for the info. DO you know of a nissan oem flange thats close to the one on the jdm header. The one on my ka looks close. But then again you can't really tell unless you get a gasket and compare. If I could get something "reasonably close"
I could have the rest fabed on the cheap. The less my man has to do the better. Maybe we could do some type group buy. I've thought about having a few extra made if it were not to difficult.
Or do think, and not to be vulgar, that the pacesetter would be less effort for cheaper with maybe the same HP. Just a question.
My lil bros girlfriend lives in Lexington she attends UK
annd yes I'd like to have your email.
You'll probably need to swap most of your sensors from the USDM onto the JDM anyway, so don't worry about broken sensors, and like blackmr2 said, as long as the distributor on the USDM is okay, swap it as well. A timing chain if it's cheap would be worth doing while the engine is out, as well as the water pump like blackmr2 said. Put ES inserts in your front and rear motor mounts as well while you're out, they're cheap, like $25-$30. Clean the TB and the IAC-AAC assembly as well. I'd also replace the shaft input seals on the tranny while it's out and if you're going to do any racing, weld or have the case welded. (they fill in the webbing around where the shaft goes in).
__________________
Rob '93 SE-R
PM or e-mail me for Progress swaybars $190 shipped, B13 Progress coilovers $1300 shipped and B13 Progress LCA brace $160 shipped.
Last edited by toolapcfan : Feb 8th, 2003 at 10:39 PM.
Just got back from Meineke today. I don't have emissions yet and used the j intake and finally the j exhaust manifold. I had to take the cut j manifold and my stocker to the muffler shop and pair it up and cut and weld right before the flex pipe. MAKE SURE THEY GET THE ANGLE FOR THE FLANGE CORRECT. It is a pain to get home and start to reinstall and the angle is wrong and have to go back.
As far as the o2 sensor goes, you can actually purchase the part from a parts store, it is a borg wagner part and runs about 80 bucks. The muffler shop has this neat little ring that is already tapped and ready to weld, so that you can use your old one. They need to burn the hole where the old one goes and make it significantly larger. Weld the ring and poof your done.
The only thing is it is alot quieter now. I don't know if I did gain any hp's, but I sure did lose a couple of pounds.
Linear Mode
