so, due to me driving like an idiot, i need a new clutch sooner than i had planned on. through some connections, i can get a clutch kit from the dealer for less than 100$. but i went to autozone today, and they had one for 50$.
has anyone put one of these clutches in thier car? any luck?
i had planned, and still do on putting in a stage2 or 3 clutch, but i just need something to last a little while.
thanks.
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"life is a gamble, just a roll of the dice. it's all or nothing now, cause there's no chance to do this twice"
I'd get the OEM one for $100 if I were you. Is that a complete kit for $100? MEaning PP, Disc and bearing? Unless you like doing clutches, I'd spend the money now for a decent one. I put an autozone clutch in my '93 XE and it was alright I guess, never really got broke in through, it'd start to slip at high RPM's. If you have an source for OEM parts, get the clutch for a '99 SE instead, it has a beefier PP from what I understand. I bought a used '99 SE clutch for like $60 from a forum member and have had it in for several months now and I like it just fine. I'll put something else in if/when I do a DET swap. Unless you're going to do internal work or a swap, I'd put whatever performance clutch you want in now. No sense doing it twice if you don't have to. That way it'll be broken in as well when you've got the engine putting out more and you won't have to restrain yourself from a heavy foot for fear of burning up a new clutch.
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Rob '93 SE-R
PM or e-mail me for Progress swaybars $190 shipped, B13 Progress coilovers $1300 shipped and B13 Progress LCA brace $160 shipped.
Last edited by toolapcfan : Jan 23rd, 2003 at 11:35 AM.
I agree with the last posting. Even though my clutch is not slipping like yours. $50 bucks for Autozone clutch? Are you willing to replace it again within a year?
I'm saving my money to buy a stage 2 clutch and light weight flywheel for my b13. If you can hold out, go with the hi per clutch and save the time unless you want to it twice.
thanks for the advice, im going to go with the dealer clutch. yeah, its 90$ for the whole kit, pressure plate, throwout bearing, and disc. from what i understand the dealer offers two clutches. the normal one that came in the car, and one called "key value", thats the whole kit. same materials, and quality, just cheaper. i guess the advantage to the dealer is being able to rape people on clutch prices by selling the other clutches by the piece for a couple hundred more dollars, with the logic of "you want the original, dont you?"
my boss put the key value kit in his 300z, and never had a problem, and ran the car very hard.
also thanks for the advice on the se clutch, im definatley going to look into that.
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"life is a gamble, just a roll of the dice. it's all or nothing now, cause there's no chance to do this twice"
If you go with aftermarket, be wary of what kind of PP you buy and stay away from anything but a street disc. Unless you're going all out drag car and don't mind the knee pulverizing pedal presssure you'll run into and harsh engagement.
Pet peeve time. What are these so called "Stage" clutches I hear so much about and never see for sale? No brand I've ever researched refers to their various clutches as "Stage 1, 2, 3, etc." Is this "stage" thing something that transcends brands somehow?
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Rob '93 SE-R
PM or e-mail me for Progress swaybars $190 shipped, B13 Progress coilovers $1300 shipped and B13 Progress LCA brace $160 shipped.
the "stage" refers to the clamping force, and strength, stage 1 is usually just a little stronger than stock, and up from there.
every catalog ive ever looked at is listed that way.
500$ is possible, with labor maybe.
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"life is a gamble, just a roll of the dice. it's all or nothing now, cause there's no chance to do this twice"
I have a ACT Clutch in my SE-R. Stage 1 usually means just a stronger PP and a normal Stock Spec Disc. As the Stages go up, they included Organic Street Disc, 6 Puck Disc, 4 Puck Disc and then the Xtreme Pressure Plates. I have a Heavy Duty Pressure plate with an Organic Street Disc. I paid about $380 for it and labor was $200. Labor usually runs around $200-$300 and this doesn't included what people will charge you to resurface your Flywheel (which is recommended when changing your clutch to give your new clutch a longer life span). And i wouldn't want to trust a $50 from Autozone.......that kinda shows the kind of quality it is.
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96 200SX SE-R
Boostin and Sneezin..........
Get a Centerforce Stage II or ACT Stage II. That way you have enough grip if you install a turbo. They make quality clutches and flywheels. You might want to replace the flywheel too while the transmission is off. Kill two birds with one stone.
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Here it is. Now with pics for your viewing pleasure. My 240
Last edited by Pacman : Feb 27th, 2003 at 07:57 PM.
Nizmonik, I was thinking about the same clutch when I do a DET swap, an ACT NX9-HD00 I think it is. How is the engagement and pedal pressure compared to stock? I don't want the excessive pedal pressure of an Extreme PP, nor the harsh engagement of a puck disc. I wonder if a RWD SR20DET clutch will work with a FWD SR20DE transmission? Also does the Silvia have a clutch cable like the B13 or does it have a slave cylinder? I'm guessing the later since the tranny is under the car.
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Rob '93 SE-R
PM or e-mail me for Progress swaybars $190 shipped, B13 Progress coilovers $1300 shipped and B13 Progress LCA brace $160 shipped.
I believe the Heavy Duty Pressure Plate w/ Stock Spec Street Disc is the NX9-HD00 but the Organic Street Disc is the NX9-HDSS. On the Heavy Duty Pressure Plate it feels a bit stiffer than stock but not by too much........NO WAY LIKE A XTREME. Thats like growing a new muscle on your left leg from putting in the clutch. LOL As far as the disc, the street discs feel pretty good b/c it gives you a lil slipping sensation but it still grabs on like nothing, alot better than a harsh puck disc. Now i was thinking about the same thing about the RWD SR20 clutches fitting on the FWD SR20's but i don't believe they fit.
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96 200SX SE-R
Boostin and Sneezin..........
I have a JWT PP that might interest you if you want to do it right the first time. Still held fine for my car I just swapped out for a Centerforce Dual-Friction
DO NOT get the oem clutch kit. it is worthless. instead, get the oem b15 sr20 disc with the stock pressure plate. this is much better. i've had both, and i got the disc with p/p for $190 or so from the dealer with employee discount. if you have the same hook up, your set. i can not stress DO NOT get the clutch kit from nissan. it sucks. later.