I have these High lobe cams i got with my car. the guy i bought them from says they should add about 7whp. i guess they are from a b13 ser before they went to the new low lobe cams in 94. can anyone confirm this for me. i guess i dont understand it all and would like some clarification and to see if this info is correct. He usually knows his stuff and i trust him so i cant see this as being too far off from the truth.
Thank you
Nick
High lobe cams will provide more lift at the valve. Basically the high lobe cams cause the valve to open further, allowing the engine to breathe easier, and "freeing-up" horsepower. It doesn't necessarilly "add" power, just frees it up. Yes, you might see an increase in power. I'd do more searching and research before installing them. It's a pretty invloved process, and could take more than you're willing to spend, both in time and money. Welcome to the forum, we'll give advice where we can.
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i know someone who can do them for fairly cheep. i will also do the headgasket and what ever else the head needs for work. do you recomend some new springs and retainers. there is not clicking now from the head. it runs fine and doenst leak any oil.
How would the high lobe valve help any, correect me if im wrong but doesnt the space between the valve and cam have to be between like .008-.020, or something like that, when that valve is open. If you were to add a cam to were the lobe were bigger it would go below that that number and you may bend a valve.
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GA16de with Ported Head, Intake Manifold, and TB, and bolt-on's.
240sx-SR-306hp. 292 tq.
No, where did you get that? The cam sits over the valve. The only thing that would be affected is valve spring compression at full open. When we say "high lobe" it means the valve opens more, not that the entire lobe is bigger. As long as the valve clears the top of the piston when it's open, there's no problem with bending a valve.
But speaking of valve spring compression, it would be a good idea to replace the valve springs and retainers while the cam is off, as well as have the valve guides checked for excessive play. Just a little insurance for down the road.
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Last edited by nova73guy : Sep 1st, 2006 at 08:16 PM.
i am all about doing things right. i had to replace the clutch in it and i ended up spending about $1500 to fix a bunch of stuff that was bad or upgrade some things. i will check into some new springs and retainers, the guy who i will have do this works as a nissan tech and loves em too. he would know everything that needs to be done and what should be done for "just in case" and preventitive maintenence.
Thanks guys for the help. it all makes more sense now.
Nick
i am all about doing things right. i had to replace the clutch in it and i ended up spending about $1500 to fix a bunch of stuff that was bad or upgrade some things. i will check into some new springs and retainers, the guy who i will have do this works as a nissan tech and loves em too. he would know everything that needs to be done and what should be done for "just in case" and preventitive maintenence.
Thanks guys for the help. it all makes more sense now.
Nick
Can't go wrong with a nissan tech doing the mods. He'll probably tell you what all needs to be done, or should be done, to prevent repairs down the road. Good luck, let us know how it goes.
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I personally wouldn't go to all the trouble of putting in new springs and retainers to just swap a cam. If it's a Stock cam from a highport SE-R then all you need to do is switch out the cam which isn't a difficult process. Really all you should need is the torque specs, proper tools, the right sockets and some zip ties. For the Valve cover, a valve cover gasket and tube seals should be ample to complete the job. Maybe a tube or RTV sealant for the cam seal edges. I'd say replace the distributor o-ring while your there but you'll be leaving that cam alone.
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