ok heres the story, filled my 91 se-r with gti-r heart up with 91 octane at sunoco, drove around 4 miles home no problem but didnt really get on it (nothing past 4k). Left to go to the g/fs house and got on the highway. Pretty much right after i shifted out of 4th i went to go change lanes and notices my steering was stiff , looked down and my car shut off. Wouldnt start just by cranking so i poped the clutch back out and she fired but ran real bad for a hot second.
Now im worred so i start to trouble shoot/drive retarded you know to try and make it happen again, i found that hittin the brakes aswell as getting off the gas made the car do this again. Sounded like a bad misfire foorr idk 30 seconds to a minute. Went to get off the highway to go back home it happend again and it did this all the way home.
Got home ripped the tmi off pulled oyut the plugs, number one (closest to the timign chain) is soaked, 2 is built up with carbon, 3 isnt so bad with carbon, and 4 is the same as 2.
unpluged igniter, and disconnected and taped off coil wire with electrical tape and cranked it over, A FREAKIN GUISER (pardon my spelling if its wrong) shot out of the cylinder 1, hit the hood and went past it spraying everywhere which makes me really pissed. SO i disconnected that injector and touched the prongs with a 9v battery with wire leads off of it and it clicks open and closed.
so what i propose is the problem is that i have WAY to much gas in my tank and when i let off and hit the brake the return line doesnt have enough strength to dump in and past the other gas and gets backed up and being that cyl 1 is at the begining of the rail it is taking the brunt of it all.
so please if any of the rest of u are on with opinions please just type them down really quick id appreciate it as i just got my car back on the road from being down with a blown clutch. I have that "i gotta break something and hear smashing noises" feeling comeing on
ok heres the story, filled my 91 se-r with gti-r heart up with 91 octane at sunoco, drove around 4 miles home no problem but didnt really get on it (nothing past 4k). Left to go to the g/fs house and got on the highway. Pretty much right after i shifted out of 4th i went to go change lanes and notices my steering was stiff , looked down and my car shut off. Wouldnt start just by cranking so i poped the clutch back out and she fired but ran real bad for a hot second.
Now im worred so i start to trouble shoot/drive retarded you know to try and make it happen again, i found that hittin the brakes aswell as getting off the gas made the car do this again. Sounded like a bad misfire foorr idk 30 seconds to a minute. Went to get off the highway to go back home it happend again and it did this all the way home.
Got home ripped the tmi off pulled oyut the plugs, number one (closest to the timign chain) is soaked, 2 is built up with carbon, 3 isnt so bad with carbon, and 4 is the same as 2.
unpluged igniter, and disconnected and taped off coil wire with electrical tape and cranked it over, A FREAKIN GUISER (pardon my spelling if its wrong) shot out of the cylinder 1, hit the hood and went past it spraying everywhere which makes me really pissed. SO i disconnected that injector and touched the prongs with a 9v battery with wire leads off of it and it clicks open and closed.
so what i propose is the problem is that i have WAY to much gas in my tank and when i let off and hit the brake the return line doesnt have enough strength to dump in and past the other gas and gets backed up and being that cyl 1 is at the begining of the rail it is taking the brunt of it all.
so please if any of the rest of u are on with opinions please just type them down really quick id appreciate it as i just got my car back on the road from being down with a blown clutch. I have that "i gotta break something and hear smashing noises" feeling comeing on
You aren't serious about thinking it is because your gas tank is too full are you? There is absolutely no way that could cause this, or anything remotely similar. As for your method of checking the injector, just because it clicks, doesn't mean it is seating properly. What I propose: Your #1 injector is stuck open(dumping fuel in the cylinder), since it is taking most of the fuel flow - that is why the other plugs look progressively better(as if the mixture were leaning out down the rail). You said you have a gtir, is your ecu tuned for the stock 444cc injectors? If you have the money now would be a good time to get a z32 maf, 550cc injectors, and an ecu re-tune. Or you could just find some stock gtir injectors.
Ifa fuel pump was weak enough (factory pump) and the gas in the return line had no where to go cuasing more than usual pressure then yes i see it as possible. That was a week ago though, since then ive taken the fuel rail out leaving all lines connected and just clicking the key forward random injecters stick open shooting streams of fuel out. Checked different times on multiple days and though the problem was the same it had moved from injector to injector. Sometimes injector 1 or 4 shot way to much fuel or inejctor 3 didnt shoot any. That takes FPR out of the questiong, double checked wiring so thats out of the question, all thats left is computer which is ordered and on the way
Didnt say the injectors were leaning out down the rail i said number 3 looked the most regular colored while 2 and 4 were built up with carbon and number 1 was almost clean because of all the gas
yes i have a gti-r engine along with the gti-r o2 sensor, maf, injectors, ecu, and so on.
If your fuel pump was weak enough that it couldn't push fuel back into the tank...there is no way the car would have enough pressure to run or flood out for that matter. It sounds like you have bad fuel injectors...maybe some dirt got into the rail somehow, and is causing the injectors to stick. definately not an ecu issue in my opinion - But hey, what do I know...lol throw an ecu on it.
i dont know why i didnt think of this before but about 2 weeks ago my front engine mount went bad. The part of my harness that contains injector wires runs right in between my intake manifold and fire wall, now anyone with a gti-r knows thats a tight fit as it is. So i cut the loom open and checked out the wires and sure enough they are crimped but the insulation isnt ripped so some wires probebly have a TERRIBLE connection inside. Im gonna cut them open this week end maybe run some wires, i will post results if anyone cares
ok well heres whats up so far, the wires were fine so i ordered, payed for and got the other computer, car ran ok but didnt go past 4k without popping and spitting especially under boost. So i brought it to work on a monday and plugged a diag computer to my car and i couldnt even enter the ecu to check for codes like i used to be able to when the car ran fine with the origional ecu. So i took the new ecu out and put the old ecu in and i couldnt diag that either. SO the company sent me a bad ecu and now im without a car for who knows how long now not to mention im out 160 bucks so far. I know its not a issue with my car because after i was done being pissed i started being constructive again and had my dad drop off my factory se-r ecu to me at work, plugged that in and the diagnostic computer was able to read the computer without any problem.
Now i know the problem is the ecu for sure and for me to get my money back opr another ecu the company wants me to send them the ecu back which is another 30 bucks for shipping F THAT. I am going to contact ebay ASAP because the ebay add said a that the ecu was in excellent condition and in perfect working order takin from a running plusar. The ecu i received had some type of dryed up liquid possibly soda on the ecu's plug area not to mention is bent and cracked. Moral of the story is dont buy from supposed "overseas" companys. Im bettin the company is just really in new york and out to screw people, i received the ecu on a sunday within like 4 days of purchase hmmmmmmm BS.
If you really, really think it is an ecu...I have an rnn14 gtir ecu and harness just laying here, I think they were from a '93 gtir. It came with my swap, but I used the ser harness, and a jwt ecu. needless to say I don't really "need" it...so if you want it drop me an offer. Feel free to view my feedback on ebay under account "metalclan". It is also very possible that the scan tool can't read the ecu, because the ecu is a non obd-2 jdm ecu...
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