Just changed my oil, massive leak

nismo b14se-r · Feb 11th, 2006, 11:47 PM

Well I just got through changing my oil. Got my car down off the jack stands, and started it up. It sounded like crap, and my oil light was on, and a few seconds later it sounds like the motor is gonna blow so I shut it off. Massive oil puddle on the floor, and I was sure I tightened down the drain plug.

So I got back underneath and pulled the plug again, which was in all the way. The pan was completely dry. Right above the plug on the seam of the pan has oil all over it, and oil had sprayed up onto the CV axle. It appears as though I blew the oil pan gasket. Has anyone ever heard of this happening post oil change? Is this possibly a more serious problem? If it matters, I used mobil 1 10w-30 full synthetic extended performance. I also used some lucas oil stabilizer :/ Please help

SuperSentra4203 · Feb 12th, 2006, 01:15 AM

There is absolutely no need to use Lucas Stabilizer in Mobil 1 synthetic. You're actually downgrading the quality of your oil. As far as the oil leak, it's got me a little stumped, the only thing I could think of is a clogged ar bad oil filter. I don't know how SR series engines are, but quite a few engines will build extreme crankcase pressure if the filter is clogged or damaged.

nismo b14se-r · Feb 12th, 2006, 05:50 PM

I just replaced the oil filter too, so that couldn't be it. Hmmm

SuperSentra4203 · Feb 12th, 2006, 07:38 PM

Yeah, i've never heard of a new filter being junk, but it is possible. The only other thing I could think of is excessive crankcase pressure vs. old oil pan gasket. The gasket will always loose. It may be possible that the PCV system is clogged or something.

HATEnFATE · Feb 12th, 2006, 08:25 PM

What kind of filter did you use? Did you double gasket the filter? I've seen cheap filters leave the old gasket on the engine and then when you put on the new filter it can't seal because the gaskets slide apart. Maybe you blew oil all over the back of the engine because of that. The other option is that the filter you put on had the gasket fall off in which case you would lose all your oil in a heartbeat. eitherway it would cause your pan to be dry since all the oil that was going to circulate was blowing out your oil filter baseplate.

I highly doubt your blew your oil pan gasket....have you ever removed on an SR20? They aren't easy to get off and you'll easily bend the pan if you don't cut the FIPG. You'd likley blow an your V/C gasket first and then other o-rings and seals before the pan let go.

I hope you didn't spin a bearing in your engine or do something else to hurt it. let us know if it's ok after you check all your options. Just remember, if you oil light is on for more then 5 seconds after you start your car you need to be VERY carefull. SR engines DO NOT like being pressure starved.

nismo b14se-r · Feb 12th, 2006, 10:21 PM

Well I removed the oil pan and cleaned it for resealing. I got all the bolts in and snug, and then started to torque them in to specs (haynes says 56-66lbs.) The first one I did the bolt snapped before it was even really tight. So I proceded to tighten the next one, and it snapped too. So now I am stuck. I am so frustrated with this thing I just wanna take it to a shop and say "here fix it". Though I cant really afford it right now, I can't afford not to have my daily driver down either. It was just a basic fram oil filter, suregrip and stuff. The oil definetely came from the pan, because its the only place that oil was. What are FIPG and V/C btw?

PDX_SER · Feb 13th, 2006, 09:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nismo b14se-r

Well I removed the oil pan and cleaned it for resealing. I got all the bolts in and snug, and then started to torque them in to specs (haynes says 56-66lbs.) The first one I did the bolt snapped before it was even really tight. So I proceded to tighten the next one, and it snapped too. So now I am stuck. I am so frustrated with this thing I just wanna take it to a shop and say "here fix it". Though I cant really afford it right now, I can't afford not to have my daily driver down either. It was just a basic fram oil filter, suregrip and stuff. The oil definetely came from the pan, because its the only place that oil was. What are FIPG and V/C btw?

isnt 66lb ft a little much for oil pan bolts?

**wes** · Feb 13th, 2006, 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nismo b14se-r

Well I removed the oil pan and cleaned it for resealing. I got all the bolts in and snug, and then started to torque them in to specs (haynes says 56-66lbs.) The first one I did the bolt snapped before it was even really tight. So I proceded to tighten the next one, and it snapped too. So now I am stuck. I am so frustrated with this thing I just wanna take it to a shop and say "here fix it". Though I cant really afford it right now, I can't afford not to have my daily driver down either. It was just a basic fram oil filter, suregrip and stuff. The oil definetely came from the pan, because its the only place that oil was. What are FIPG and V/C btw?

HEH that should be inch lbs. if anything. They do not need to be that tight man...

Did you check the filter before you tore the oil pan off?

nismo b14se-r · Feb 14th, 2006, 02:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wes

HEH that should be inch lbs. if anything. They do not need to be that tight man...

Did you check the filter before you tore the oil pan off?

No I did not check the filter, how can I tell if its bad? I know the O-Ring was fine when I put it on. I'm prolly just gonna take it to a shop now. I dont want to mess with using an easy out to try and pull out the broken bolts. I've already messed up enough

Sethticlees · Feb 14th, 2006, 07:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nismo b14se-r

No I did not check the filter, how can I tell if its bad? I know the O-Ring was fine when I put it on. I'm prolly just gonna take it to a shop now. I dont want to mess with using an easy out to try and pull out the broken bolts. I've already messed up enough

I'd complete the job. You're almost done man, and you'd have to tow it to a shop by now anyway. Chalk it up as learning experience and well (we've all been there one time or another) I can vouch you'll be a better mechanic because of it.

Do you have a dremel? I was once able to cut a slit into the bottom of a bolt and then used a screwdriver to remove it.
Replacement bolts can be ordered from Nissan (they hard to find otherwise). If you need a quick fix just use whatever fits the oil pan for now and replace with OEM bolts later when you have more time.

As for the filter... now would be a great time to remove it and check for anything and everything. If you can't find a problem with the filter I'd still replace it anyway. (filter = $4 / mechanic = $100's)

Lastly, follow the proper bolt pattern sequence when tightening the pan in place and avoid the use of TQ-wrench on small bolts. (or stick to Newton meters)

Sucky situation to be in I’m sorry to say, but I assure you nobody will do as good a job of bailing yourself out as YOU will. Give it a try!

Best of luck

HATEnFATE · Feb 14th, 2006, 09:50 AM

Did you check for double gasketing like I suggested? just because the oring was fine on the new filter doesn't mean the old one wasn't still there.

**wes** · Feb 14th, 2006, 02:23 PM

I hate to say this after the fact but the FIRST thing you should have done was remove the filter. Just because it was OK when you put it on does not mean it did not fail. What brand of filter were you using?

nova73guy · Feb 14th, 2006, 02:30 PM

Almost sounds like the oil pressure sensor blew out. They are known for being really bad design, and leak like crazy after a few years. Check to see if that's where the oil is coming from, since it's in the general location of where the leak would have to be (according to the description).

Flounder · Feb 14th, 2006, 03:44 PM

Oil pressure sensor sounds like a good possibility. Mine started leaking last year, and once they start, the begin to leak like crazy very fast. It's right on the back of the block, about midway up and a little to the right. Easy to replace and somewhat cheap.

nismo b14se-r · Feb 14th, 2006, 09:36 PM

How would I test the oil pressure sensor to see if it was still functioning properly? I used a suregrip fram oil filter, not the double guard or nothing. Just the $6-7 one. I did not check for double rings, I will do that. But I am sure I did not lose oil from the filter, could it create a blockage there that would build up excess pressure? The only reason I am even considering taking it to a shop is that my garage is small. Its effin cold out, like in the 20's, I don't have adequate light, and the only day I have free to work on it is saturday. Which is when I need the car by, due to prior commitments that can't be rescheduled. Also I don't really have all the tools to do the job, I don't even own a drill.

But I didn't pull the pan back off yet so I don't know how far in they'd broken off. I'll probably just borrow some tools from work, and have a friend help me. I'm the foreman of a powdercoat shop so I can borrow a lot of the tools I might need. It's just miserable conditions, but I'll tough it out and see what I can do. The car ran fine before, so I doubt that there is a problem with the oil pump or the sensor. But you never know