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SR-Series Engines (DE/VE) Engine Discussion: G20, 91-94 Sentra SE-R, NX2K, 95-98 200SX SE-R, 98-01 Sentra SE

       
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Old Feb 5th, 2006, 03:15 PM   #1 (permalink)
PDX_SER
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swap problems

I just put in the sr20det in my 91 se-r and I am having a few problems, the first is I have an oil leak from which looks like my timing cover seal, do you have to pull the motor out to do that? And when I drove it around the block, it was running a little rough, and when I gave it some gas, at 4 grand when it just started to really boost, it just backfired and cut out over and over, then when i pulled it back in the driveway the idle was rolling really bad, I am using the ecu that came with the motor, and the o2 sensor isnt hooked up cause the wires are damaged. It was idling okay before it got really warm too, any help?
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Old Feb 5th, 2006, 06:28 PM   #2 (permalink)
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The o2 sensor comes into play once it gets warm so get that squared away as it is probebly sending bad signals to the computer once it starts to take readings.
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Old Feb 5th, 2006, 10:08 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slacky
The o2 sensor comes into play once it gets warm so get that squared away as it is probebly sending bad signals to the computer once it starts to take readings.
But the o2 sensor is disconnected though, but I will fix it anyways, do you think it could be the maf sensor, cause its the stock non turbo one, should i upgrade to the cobra maf? And do I have to pull the motor for the timing cover gasket?
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Old Feb 5th, 2006, 10:15 PM   #4 (permalink)
chris859
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I hope you are kidding about driving around with the o2 sensor disconnected! If you are...theres your problem(most of, if not your whole problem - they aren't optional you know), get a new one and hook it up - then see how it runs.
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Old Feb 5th, 2006, 10:15 PM   #5 (permalink)
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maf is deff a issue, do u have all vacuum hooked up or atleast blocked off, what about your crank ventalation is that circulated? and no im pretty positive u dont have to have the engine out to do the timing chain cover though it would make things a hell of a lot easier
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Old Feb 5th, 2006, 10:28 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slacky
maf is deff a issue, do u have all vacuum hooked up or atleast blocked off, what about your crank ventalation is that circulated? and no im pretty positive u dont have to have the engine out to do the timing chain cover though it would make things a hell of a lot easier
Actually, i checked everything and there was a small hose that didnt have a clamp on it and one small nipple on the intake that wasnt blocked off, so maybe when it boosted it was enough false air to make it cut out?
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Old Feb 6th, 2006, 02:05 PM   #7 (permalink)
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idk about that, i hope it was the problem because that means u fixed it but i drove around with some messed up vacuums when i first did my swap , very supprised my engine didnt blow up in many ways. Ran like poopies till i had everything figured out but it always managed to run with a little tweaking of the idle screw or with a new tune up part
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Old Feb 6th, 2006, 03:53 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Slacky
idk about that, i hope it was the problem because that means u fixed it but i drove around with some messed up vacuums when i first did my swap , very supprised my engine didnt blow up in many ways. Ran like poopies till i had everything figured out but it always managed to run with a little tweaking of the idle screw or with a new tune up part
Do you think my stock maf sensor could be the problem? Do they work well with the turbo?
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Old Feb 6th, 2006, 09:23 PM   #9 (permalink)
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You need an o2 sensor...you can't just leave it disconnected! That should be first on your list...and then look into the maf. I am sure the vacuum leak didn't help...however that shouldn't make it cut out at 4k. If the o2 sensor is disconnected, chances are the computer has set itself to "limp home mode" where it defaults to running rich, and only revs to around 4k(to prevent damage)
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Old Feb 6th, 2006, 10:33 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris859
You need an o2 sensor...you can't just leave it disconnected! That should be first on your list...and then look into the maf. I am sure the vacuum leak didn't help...however that shouldn't make it cut out at 4k. If the o2 sensor is disconnected, chances are the computer has set itself to "limp home mode" where it defaults to running rich, and only revs to around 4k(to prevent damage)
That makes sense, I tried napa and a few other parts stores but they dont have the right o2 sensor since it is different then the sr20de, does anybody know a part number for it, aftermarket or dealer?
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Old Feb 7th, 2006, 01:06 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Try talking to courtesy nissan...they sell jdm nissan parts as well as usdm, and should be able to get you what you need. http://www.courtesynissan.com/
Quote:
Originally Posted by PDX_SER
That makes sense, I tried napa and a few other parts stores but they dont have the right o2 sensor since it is different then the sr20de, does anybody know a part number for it, aftermarket or dealer?
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Old Feb 8th, 2006, 12:43 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Try talking to courtesy nissan...they sell jdm nissan parts as well as usdm, and should be able to get you what you need. http://www.courtesynissan.com/
Courtesy nissan didnt show any, but I emailed a few places that had the sensor for the s13 red top, cause one website mentioned its skinnier then the stock one, so hopefully its the same one, then I just have to do the timing cover seal and see how she runs, oh and sorry chris, I didnt see your first reply about the o2 sensor. I was thinking it wouldve been like an obdll car where it just sets a code with a faultly o2 sensor, Im going to try to do the timing cover with the motor in the car, I was suggested to take off the front mount and lower the engine enough to do it through the wheel well, are there any major difficulties while doing the timing cover seal,, I was told I have to drop the oil pan, and take off the valvecover to get to two bolts that are on the other side of the cover.
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