I have a 95 240sx. 187000 miles, the KA24de has about 65000. Since I put a new clutch in the engine's been missing. I took it back to the dealership and they said i needed a new distributer ($380). I put that in and ran good at first then after about 8 miles it started missing again. And the engine just dies when I come to a stop.
I changed the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and fuel filter and this time it ran the same 8 miles again and then half way back the engine just died at a stop and did it agian, and one more time then started missing agian just like before.
To be descriptive: the engine misses from -2000-3100 rpm then runs fine at 3100+... Before fuel filter install the enigne would seem to redline at 5500 rpm. But now it will go all the way through the powerband.
I know this is lengthy and i apologize but i don't wanna take it to a shop again. PLEASE HELP!!!!
The timing should be just about right, i'm taking it to a family freind who's a mechanic soon. Well my Dad was a mechanic and he installed the distributer, and he said he put it within half a degree of where it needed to be.
The clucth job was done by a Nissan dealership. So idk...
if the timing is correct, check the spark plugs for extreme fouling. If this is happening, the injectors are most likely dumping too much fuel in the cylinders. This could be due to leaking injectors or overly high fuel pressure.
you might want to consider the iac valve. seem like when you stop moving and the car goes to idle the car stalls. id check the iac also to see if its not stuck closed or just acting up.
__________________ Quote of the Day From Our Shop "Quick, ill wiggle it while you tug on it"
you might want to consider the iac valve. seem like when you stop moving and the car goes to idle the car stalls. id check the iac also to see if its not stuck closed or just acting up.
trmn8r, exactly what is the iac valve, i'm not familar with that....
its an idle air control valve. it controls the idle speed and allows you to raise or lower it. i'm not exactly sure where its located on KA's, but on SR's you can see it underneath the intake runners towards the rear of the motor.
If only certain spark plugs are fouling, then yes, it could be bad injectors for only those cylinders.
I checked all the plugs and they're all just normal wear. Nothing to suspect fouling... Should i try running some injector cleaner through them and see how that works?
Yes, it's possible that the injector(s) just has dirt in it. Run some good injection cleaner, like Techron or Redline SL-1, through the system; Give the cleaner about a week or two to do it's job.
There is also a product called BG products 44K. It is however a very strong cleaner and in some cases it has worsened fuel injection operation; it has a tendency to attack the internal non-metallic parts of a fuel injector.
Also, you may have leaking fuel injectors. To test them, unbolt the fuel rail from the intake manifold and pull off the entire assembly. Keep the fuel hoses still connected and don't remove any individual injectors. Also keep the electrical connectors on the injectors. With the assembly now away from the intake, turn the ignition key to the run position WITHOUT STARTING THE ENGINE. Now observe each injector to look for leaks. There should be no drips.
Make sure you have at least 4 spare insulator rings for the injectors in case some are damaged during rail removal.
I put cleaner in my car then had a half gallon of gas, and i am almost all the way through the tank, and have yet to see any improvements...
To elaborate:
Nissan dealership ran dianogstic and said it needed a new distributer.
Put a new disributer, cap, rotor, wires, and plugs...
What else could possibly be wrong? Do i need to just get it timed?
Engine does this:
Can drive about 8 miles with no missing.
Then will miss below 3000, more less between 2000-3000 rpms, then above 4500 rpm...
Then if I continue drivng the missing gets worse and tends to get more violent...
Can drive about 8 miles with no missing.
Then will miss below 3000, more less between 2000-3000 rpms, then above 4500 rpm...
Then if I continue drivng the missing gets worse and tends to get more violent...
Thanks to everyone for all your help =)
Could it be the FICV? Fast Idle Control Valve, not even sure if KAs have one but it was a problem with many Hondas. It's a valve controled by the coolant temperature that either opens or closes when the coolant heats up to allow more air or restrict air into the intake for cold days. If not it might have something to do with the cooling system (air bubble, idk), since you have to drive 8 miles for it to happen (ie warm up).
But I'm not a mechanic so take that at face value. Maybe do some research on that.