okay, so i did the 300zx brake swap a while a go and kept my stock master cylinder. the brakes were a little mushy, but that is understandable because it was pushing 6 more pistons. so today i intstalled a 300zx master cylinder and bled all the lines, but the pedal still went to the floor. the more i drove it, the harder it got, but its was still a little mushy. whats the deal? also, the wheels seem to try to lock sooner and abs kicks in a lot sooner than with the stock mc
no, started with front and went to back
and i was told by the mechanic i bought the mc from that if you push it down all the way, then it can destroy the seals.(its an involved explanation)
Theoretically, your supposed to start with the furthest caliper from the MC, but I don't think it really matters (if you think about it, honestly, what difference does it make, your bleeding each one seperately). My Honda Helm's FSM said to start with the front drivers side when bleeding. I've heard the pedal thing too and never really understood it. I'm usually the guy outside with the bottle though and we've never had any trouble.
If your car has ABS, I believe there are also bleeder screws on the ABS unit that might need to be bled.
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HybridAndy - 240sx/SR20 owner
'90 240SX hatchback - 180sx front clip on it's way, project car
'98 Civic EX - CTR headlight and grill, Kosei K1's, daily driver
Bench bleed the MC maybe? I never really understood exactly how to do it and I changed in the MC in my old Honda project car and didn't have a problem just bolting it in, filling it with fluid, letting it gravity bleed for a while and then pumping the air out and I was done. Are you still using rubber lines anywhere?
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HybridAndy - 240sx/SR20 owner
'90 240SX hatchback - 180sx front clip on it's way, project car
'98 Civic EX - CTR headlight and grill, Kosei K1's, daily driver
is it a brand new MC or a used one they pulled off some Z? its possible (if its from some other Z) that the m/c was going on that and you kinda got screwed over....not likely but possible
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Bench bleed the MC maybe? I never really understood exactly how to do it and I changed in the MC in my old Honda project car and didn't have a problem just bolting it in, filling it with fluid, letting it gravity bleed for a while and then pumping the air out and I was done. Are you still using rubber lines anywhere?
in the back. i think maybe the gravity bleed thing worked because it was harder today. it was used, but i kept my origianl and i can always return the new one because i know the guy.
If it's stiffening up, maybe there is still just some air trapped somewhere. With old Honda, I just put the car on 4 jackstands, opened all the bleeder and let it drip for good while (lay down some cat litter/zorball to soak up the fluid or use catch cans), just don't let the MC get low. Then I just closed them and just watched the hose until I got clean bubbleless fluid out of the bleeder? Maybe give it another shot before you try replacing the MC.
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HybridAndy - 240sx/SR20 owner
'90 240SX hatchback - 180sx front clip on it's way, project car
'98 Civic EX - CTR headlight and grill, Kosei K1's, daily driver
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