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S13 240SX 1989-1994 Including Silvia

       
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Old Dec 14th, 2003, 04:52 AM   #16 (permalink)
esyip
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobbyRay
So neither of have any idea had to do the swap and you rather just pussy around right? I don't have time for your shit so give me the answers or find me someone who can.
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puss. do your own research and homework.
just in case you missed it the first time.
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Old Dec 14th, 2003, 08:52 PM   #17 (permalink)
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i love how eysip is starting to go to the darkside and just OWNING noobs
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Old Dec 14th, 2003, 09:11 PM   #18 (permalink)
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i found a site with a step by step process... too bad im not gonna tell him
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And the rest of you bitches who do nothing but lick each others anus's and high five your retarded flame posts can all go suck a dick, I'm done with this cracker forum.
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Old Dec 15th, 2003, 11:59 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobbyRay
Ok id look through that thread night started like a year ago but its 2 freakin long. I need a step by step of how to install a RB25DET into an S13 hatchback. Yes ive seen the article from sport compact car-they installed in a S14. So i need basically step by step installation instructions, wiring diagrams, prices, and any links would be useful
How much you willing to pay while I put this together for you?

Email me with SPECIFIC questions, not how do I do it and I will try to help.
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Old Dec 16th, 2003, 01:26 AM   #20 (permalink)
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bobbygay got destroyed. what a bitch. and i remember when bizzy b took out esyip. esyip was left speechless, if i remembered correctly.
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Old Dec 16th, 2003, 11:54 AM   #21 (permalink)
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i don't rember that
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And the rest of you bitches who do nothing but lick each others anus's and high five your retarded flame posts can all go suck a dick, I'm done with this cracker forum.
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Old Dec 16th, 2003, 11:56 AM   #22 (permalink)
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I will make it real simple for you....bring your car to me with about $10,000 and I will set you up REAL nice. Gauges, boost controller, LSD, installed and guaranteed for 90 days(the labor).

jbpowell@nycap.rr.com
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Old Dec 16th, 2003, 12:03 PM   #23 (permalink)
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holy shit for 10 grand i'd do it for you.
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And the rest of you bitches who do nothing but lick each others anus's and high five your retarded flame posts can all go suck a dick, I'm done with this cracker forum.
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Old Dec 16th, 2003, 12:04 PM   #24 (permalink)
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I will supply EVERYTHING including the engine.
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Old Dec 17th, 2003, 03:26 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HondaHater
bobbygay got destroyed. what a bitch. and i remember when bizzy b took out esyip. esyip was left speechless, if i remembered correctly.
i always get the last word.

"took out"? what is this an Italian mafia hitmob or something? wtf? and, i'm sorry, but who are you? oh, that's right. you're a nobody.

oops. did i say that? ;x
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Old Dec 17th, 2003, 04:22 PM   #26 (permalink)
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it's lionel.. remember him??

and i don't remember that either.. find the thread pls
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Old Dec 18th, 2003, 01:24 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esyip
i always get the last word.

"took out"? what is this an Italian mafia hitmob or something? wtf? and, i'm sorry, but who are you? oh, that's right. you're a nobody.

oops. did i say that? ;x
that was lame.

zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz
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Old Dec 18th, 2003, 04:07 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Nggggggggggg.....comeon at least give this guy a chance...he IS trying btw....more that can be said for most of the car owners on this board who are too soft to try doing engine changes (yes most of you!)......

In not a very good order, but still.....This is from when I put a RB25DET into a VL Commodore

Bits required (VL Commodore)

1) RB25DET engine, loom, and 5 speed gearbox --> R33 unit....do not use the RB20DET gearboxes as they are a much smaller unit. Also the R33 units use a diffrent flywheel and starter motor (bigger/heaver) compared to the smaller RB20DET boxes (MF5) All the GTR gearbox is a MX7/R33 2.5 litre gearbox with a 4WD transfer case.. The Nissan Navara 4WD has the same gearbox as the GTR skyline, but diffrent external cases etc....a good source of spares when you MX7/R33 unit shits itself

2) Intercooler...VL's dont have 'em

Well thats it for a VL.....everything fits on the factory mounts.....for a S13 you need a R32 Skyline sub frame, with attached engine mounts. You may also have to modify your tailshaft (depending on what gearbox you had in your car to start with)

Order to do stuff.......

---------Both VL and S13---------------------

1) Stop car, get out duh....

2) Decompress engines fuel system. This is done by removeing the fuse from the fuel pump and starting the engine....wait to the engine stalls (DONT FLOOR THE ACCELERATOR WHEN DOING THIS) turn the ignition off.

3) Disconnect and remove battery

4) Disconnect fuel hoses from the existing engine. Clamp both the sender and return line off with hose clamps....

5) Disconnect and label (and label and label) old engine loom. Punch the old grommit out from the fire wall and feed the old loom through. Unbolt the old computer and pull the loom out of the car.

6) Disconnect any other engine acc...eg Powerstearing (remember to put a bucket under the car to catch the fluid!) and empty the radiator. I recomend you remove the water pump off the old engine and put it in a bucket of coolant so the seals in the pump dont decay.....

7) Now jack the car up on the hoist ( or go down a pit....if your still keen axel stands......) and disconnect and remove the transmission crossmember. Also remove the exhaust system from the headers back. I recomend you remove the CAT at the same time if its in the way. Also remove any wires to the gearbox (in the case of a manual, the Neutral switch and reverse switch) (in the case of a manual it should be one big plug that comes out) and speedo sender. (If its a cable) also disonnect your hydraulic clutchslave cylinder....

8) Working inside of the car remove the gear selector coverplate, and disconnect the gear stick boot. You should be able to see rite thru the floor to the gearbox by now. For a automatic you need to unscrew the selector and unclip the rachet that goes to the trans selector (metal rod). Then you haveto remove the plate under that which is screwed/rivited into the chassis.....remove this (if rivited drill 'em out)

9) Nows a good time to check if you removed everything connected to the engine....dont forget things like heater hoses (hard to see) and vacume lines....

10) check again.....sorry very important been there done that....(good story to go with that.....)

11) Now you can unbolt the engine mounts from the BOTTOM........

12) wrap a old seatbelt around the old engine lift mounts and hook it up to a engine crane....

13) Slowly lift the engine out of the car, with a person under the car making sure that the tailshaft yoke came cleanly out of the gearbox.......(Nissans are not bolted to the trans)

14) Remove engine and put it on the ground. Now hook up the old engine loom (which you labeled of course ) to the old engine so you can sell it as 1 complete unit

15)--------------S13 ONLY--------------

Disconnect the stearing rack, swaybars and anything elese you see from the front subframe. Unbolt the ubframe and gently lower it to the ground. It helps if you hook the engine crane to the subframe........

Install your old stearing rack on the R32 subframe.

Now install the R32 subframe and bolt up you swaybars etc. Also hook up the tie rod ends (stearing rack) to you front struts

15)-------------VL Commodore ONLY----------

Nothing needs to be done...the RB25DET sits on the old mounts with no mods

16) Install new engine. Basically a reverse of what we did before, lower it in slowly, make sure the tailshaft joins up ** (see bottom of post) bolt your geabox crossmember in, and hook up your wires. Also make sure the gearstick comes up through the hold in the floor...

17) bolt up engine mounts....I recomend you pruchase new ones evertime you do a engine swap, buts thats just me...

18) Double check your wires......I normally make a new lom for scratch so I know everything works....

19) tripple check your wires......hook up aircon, power stear etc. Bleed your power stering unit.....

20) hook up your fuel lines.

21) Bleed your clucth and make sure its working.......

22) Reinstall battery......

23) Change oil in new motor, fill motor with coolant...remeber to take the top bleed bolt of your new RB engine otherwise it will blow a head (YES THEY ALL DO THAT!)

24) disconnect ignition system.....(eg plugs)

25) Turn ignition on (dont start it!!!!!!!) listen for you fuel pump turning on and then turning off (when pressure has built up)

26) crank engine over. this makes sure you have oil in the engine when you fire it up for the first time

27) re connect plugs

28) O.K now you can fire it up!

29) If engine goes great...if not, check spark, injectors (tap them with a hammer if the engine been sitting for a long time unused....gently!)

30) Sit back and have a beer, knowing you are a REAL car person, not some rice boy wanna be.....

**I'll explain how to do transmissions tomorrow, tailshafts, auto to manual conversions tomorrow....
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Last edited by Nizmodore : Dec 18th, 2003 at 05:45 AM.
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Old Dec 18th, 2003, 06:09 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vsp3c
it's lionel.. remember him??

and i don't remember that either.. find the thread pls
yes, vaguely. apparently he put no kind of lasting memory on me, which is a good thing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HondaHater
that was lame.

zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz
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Old Dec 18th, 2003, 09:06 AM   #30 (permalink)
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i think that whole swap post by nizmodore belongs in the sticky for noobs. jeong, hop to it. copy and paste or something.
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