Hey guys, Ive been trying to remove my cams so I can reach my head bolts to do a rebuild on my KA24DE. Now i have removed all the caps that secure the cams and I have also removed the chain tensioner, but the chain still has tension and I cant remove the cams. Any suggestions on what to do next?
Hey guys, Ive been trying to remove my cams so I can reach my head bolts to do a rebuild on my KA24DE. Now i have removed all the caps that secure the cams and I have also removed the chain tensioner, but the chain still has tension and I cant remove the cams. Any suggestions on what to do next?
Thanks in Advance
did you unbolt the cam sprockets
__________________ Quote of the Day From Our Shop "Quick, ill wiggle it while you tug on it"
yeah... there's no need to take off those sprockets.. just very gingerly *with something soft underneath, but if you make a notch it won't hurt the Head. the VC gasket will still seat good or you can take a file to it if you're worried or anal, like i was* pry up on the cam so it pops out of the journals.. but be sure you don't let it fall back on to them. an effed up journal will make your head unusable later *well...it'll be fine with a lil filing as long as it's not gouged in any way* unless you have a ton of cash to find those camshaft inserts...or take it to a machine shop to have the brackets filed down and the cam bores re cut. *holding it tight and prying at the same time helps* then you wiggle the whole cam to the center of the head, then do the same to the exhaust cam... wait.. i can't remember even though i just did it like freakin 5 times but one goes in and out easier than the other...... just play with it. then the chain lowers off the idle sprocket... it also helps to unbolt the idle sprocket so you can raise it up some, but that requires you to put the lil cotter pin on the lower tensioner back *there's those lil cotter pin hooks*... you should just be able to get to it wi/o taking off the lower cover. BUT BE VERY CAREFUL then the idle sprocket raises just high enough to do it all. you can take off the cam sprockets but it's just not worth the hassle of try to make double sure that the sprocket is lined up perfect *torqued perfect* with the lobes/chain timing marks... YOU DEFINETLY DON'T WANT A CAM THAT NOT TIMED RIGHT TORQUED RIGHT. course.. i've haven't read up on it or done it yet.. i'm not sure if it torques right by itself... but either way untorquing and retorquing cam sprockets is a good was to ensure having to find new cams cuz the sprockets bust off the cam real easy. my dumbass found this out twice in a row... first time i just durdedur.. torqued the cams down thinking it was fine and the brackets wouldn't squish EHHHH WRONG SNAP!!! AS SOON AS YOU CRANK YOUR ENGINE ON. second time... ya know what?... i think i'll torque em to like 12 lbs *the dealer told me 10-15* SNAP!!!! SON OF A @!#%$#$^#%&^#%$@%#%^#$%@#$%!!!! .....yeah... the camshaft brackets on a DOHC 240 are torqued to 8.71 lbs *per some dude in a shop that does 240's*... haven't done it yet... just now finishing assembly on ENTIRE engine cuz the prick that sold me the car didn't bother to tell me the 4th pistonrod bearing was spun. this is my last cam. i'm seriously pissed i'm out 2 exhaust cams and have to find some for my other two engines... course.. both cranks on the other two are screwed up too ....spun bearings. nothing like spending hundreds of dollars on an engine crank when you could prolly find an entire new engine for cheaper.
BTW: before you take the idle sprocket bolt off *if you're like me and was playing with the crank while doing other stuff instead of just leaving it alone...insome cases you can't * MAKE SURE YOU SCRATCH THE LINK THAT'S JUST ABOVE THE LOWER RIGHT CHAIN GUIDE. this will let you know whether or not you effed up by letting the timing mark on the Crank move over a tooth. i tried counting down from the idle sprocket timing mark to the last link you can see on the crank *18 outside links if i remember correctly, but it'd be best if you counted yourself @ TDC*, but i did this on an extra engine and it's a mofro if you don't have a good flashlight and 20/20 vision. if you don't make sure that link is in the same position, you're going to have to remove and clean the front cover.......which means you have to remove and clean the oil pan......which means you have to drop the pass. suspension, the engine braces on the mounts taken off and have two jacks.... one on the front of the car *where the radiator support is* and one under the tranny so you don't A: bend your tranny dick although, mine supported it with the jack and i'm pretty sure is fine *lol.... tranny/male//engine/female ....and B: you have more play on the engine by jack up right where the bellhousing bolts on the engine. ....then you gotta raise the engine away from the crossmember and pull out the oil pan at the same time you take off the oil strainer. if you don't raise the engine this far *with the suspension dropped* you can't get the pan out... and if you don't get it out, it's anybody's guess how good your oil pan seal will be and you'll be losing a ton of oil everywhere you go.
the lower cover is a real B@%!%. lets just say... days upon days, and with as many mating surfaces you have to scrap/clean/prep and then reseal.... one mistake will take you twice or three times as long. especially when some jerk off stoner that sold you the car doesn't bother to tell you certain lil probs with the engine like a damn spun bearing. "well i drove it fine from Grand Prarie" yeah... i'm the banana on bottom. *shakes head* thank god i had a 3rd engine....
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dblclutchn lik a mofo, save me that clutch
damn government and their incredibly expensive tickets, hows a good natured racer supposed to stay legit?
gd... if i could only make it past the lower class, i'd be rich. damn facists.
DO IT THE PROPER WAY! Just like Nismo240 described, there's a spot just behind each cam sprocket for using a large open-end wrench. Once the bolt is out, gently tap on the back side of the sprocket at several spots and it will come off.
no prob LEpusher...it was really startin to tick me off tryin to find all this info, not to mention laying on rocks for a week straight making sure i double/triple/quadruple check everything over and over and over to make sure the entire engine bay was good... electronics, fuel, air, even redid the collector and vacuum tubes... not that's a real bitch. vacuum diagrams are hell to read, but once you get it down iz ez. and then the guy out there wasn't helpin me for sh!t even though "i've been to UTI down in Houston".... it's nice to get a break sometimes and just have someone let you know what ya gotta do... the hard part is doing it right... lol. shadetree grease monkeys unite!!! lol
Rogoman....what ya gonna do when your cam sprocket snaps off the cam after you turn it back on? i dunno... i guess if you're lucky enough to have found a car that has a bran new engine, or maybe extremely lucky enough to have found one that's only got 100k on it. all three of mine have over 220k on it. the cams snapped like freaking dry spagetti. and i can garuntee you a new cam wouldn't have when i only torqued the brackets to 10.5lbs.
it's a real b!@#$ to have to do all that work just to take off cams.. but as long as you make sure the crank timing mark doesn't move by scratching the link near the idle sprocket, you're good and don't have to. course... you'd be a fool to not go ahead and replace your bottom timing chain when you're doing major work on your engine. the chains stretch... and eventually will snap in half, throw metal slivers all over the place, not to mention if you're driving when it happens... you need a headjob *your valves are probably bent all to hell* and if you're karma really sucks the entire engine will destroy itself.
btw:.... just got my head on last night.. today's timing and sealant day!!! woot.
__________________
dblclutchn lik a mofo, save me that clutch
damn government and their incredibly expensive tickets, hows a good natured racer supposed to stay legit?
gd... if i could only make it past the lower class, i'd be rich. damn facists.
and if you can, and got the spot to do it... JUST RIP THE ENGINE. trust me... it's soooo much easier if you're changing out the timing chains. you don't have to mess with suspension, and you can triple check everything... and torque everything perfect... then when you drop it in again, all ya gotta do is attach all the lil crap.
__________________
dblclutchn lik a mofo, save me that clutch
damn government and their incredibly expensive tickets, hows a good natured racer supposed to stay legit?
gd... if i could only make it past the lower class, i'd be rich. damn facists.
that's crazy how they make them so brittle, when it's an engine that can have up to 600-700 horses...
yeah... i think i took like two hours w/ half turns on each bolt.... but you have to speculate on when you first start threading them cuz if you're puttin em in with the sprockets on....
cuz i read up on how to do the sprockets and iz a real b!#$% to make sure they're perfect so it times right.
...but first threading....with it timed you'll be pushin down a couple valves too.. so i just took a lot of time to make sure that it was going down parallel on all of em even with it pushin those valves down. definetly had a smoke break afterwards. was freakin nervous as hell, it being my last exhaust cam.
lol.... all the stuff ramblin around my head to make sure everything was done right and at first i accidentally switched the intake w/ the exhaust... luckily i didn't bolt down yet, but added another 30 mins makin sure it was perfectly timed. lol... that's what happens i guess when you're workin on an engine waking til sleeping for 5 days straight.
...but just got the whole front sealed and waitin on the oil pan to heat up a lil. sealin in the winter's a sob.
__________________
dblclutchn lik a mofo, save me that clutch
damn government and their incredibly expensive tickets, hows a good natured racer supposed to stay legit?
gd... if i could only make it past the lower class, i'd be rich. damn facists.
yea, if i knew they were that brittle i would've went a lot slower. it sucks though cause i haven't had my car running in almost three months and once i get close to finishing it this happens. but i was trying to put them on with the sprockets on too. i guess it'll be a bit easier without them on.
Cam Removal
Quote of the Day From Our Shop "Quick, ill wiggle it while you tug on it"
AS SOON AS YOU CRANK YOUR ENGINE ON. second time... ya know what?... i think i'll torque em to like 12 lbs *the dealer told me 10-15* SNAP!!!! 
SON OF A @!#%$#$^#%&^#%$@%#%^#$%@#$%!!!! .....yeah... the camshaft brackets on a DOHC 240 are torqued to 8.71 lbs *per some dude in a shop that does 240's*... haven't done it yet... just now finishing assembly on ENTIRE engine cuz the prick that sold me the car didn't bother to tell me the 4th pistonrod bearing was spun. this is my last cam. i'm seriously pissed i'm out 2 exhaust cams and have to find some for my other two engines... course.. both cranks on the other two are screwed up too ....spun bearings. nothing like spending hundreds of dollars on an engine crank when you could prolly find an entire new engine for cheaper.
....and B: you have more play on the engine by jack up right where the bellhousing bolts on the engine. ....then you gotta raise the engine away from the crossmember and pull out the oil pan at the same time you take off the oil strainer. if you don't raise the engine this far *with the suspension dropped* you can't get the pan out... and if you don't get it out, it's anybody's guess how good your oil pan seal will be and you'll be losing a ton of oil everywhere you go.
yeah... i'm the banana on bottom. *shakes head* thank god i had a 3rd engine....
it's nice to get a break sometimes and just have someone let you know what ya gotta do... the hard part is doing it right... lol. shadetree grease monkeys unite!!! lol
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