i just bought a 92 240sx twin cam from my friend and i tried starting it and it cranks but it doesn't want to start so i checked if there's sparks and fuel and found out that d fuel pump is broken so i replaced it to a new one and still won't start .i checked the sparkplug wires ,coil and igniter and im geting sparks but when i tookout the spark plugs i dont smell gas on them it looks like the injectors are not opening .do you guys think that it has to do with the maff sensor?
BTW im geting 11and 13 engine code
Last edited by jdmwong : Apr 5th, 2007 at 10:19 AM.
Code 11 - crankshaft position sensor
Code 13 - coolant temperature sensor
The crankshaft position sensor controls the ignition firing and the fuel injector firing. It's the cause of your starting problem. Check it's harness connector.
i noticed that every time i spray starting fluid it doesn't fire up it looks like that the secondary butterlfy is not opening.maybe im not geting air or something
The sensor is in the distributor. Check the harness connector pins for any oxidation on them. Why did you change out the distributor?
i change the distributor cause when i opened it it's coroded inside. but when i chaged it to the new one the other day it looks like the injectors are firing up and the sparks are good and im not geting 11engine code anymore but im still geting 13 and still wont start. btw when i took out the plugs to check if theres gas spraying inside. the gas smells funny.do you guys think that the reason why it wont start is because of the gas?
The sensor is in the distributor. Check the harness connector pins for any oxidation on them. Why did you change out the distributor?
good idea
lots of people change parts like crazy and 90% of the time its just the wiring. Clean the connectors, crappy connection can lead to bad grounds I.e., non complete circuit.
I'm going through the same thing. No starting, will roll over but no spark. Coil is good and dizzy is brand new. Got an ignitor comming tommarrow, going to see if that fixes it. If not the only other thing it could be in the crank angle sensor not being referenced.
lots of people change parts like crazy and 90% of the time its just the wiring. Clean the connectors, crappy connection can lead to bad grounds I.e., non complete circuit.
I'm going through the same thing. No starting, will roll over but no spark. Coil is good and dizzy is brand new. Got an ignitor comming tommarrow, going to see if that fixes it. If not the only other thing it could be in the crank angle sensor not being referenced.
i already check the wiring and im geting sparks and fuel its flooded already but still won't start
There is no choke mechanism in electronic fuel injection systems. The ECU provides fuel enrichment during cold starts; this is governed by the coolant temperature sensor.
In your case, the ECU is posting a fault code of 13 which means a problem with the temperature sensor. Generally a bad temperature sensor will cause the ECU to provide an overly rich mixture.
If you got spark and fuel, then the ignition timing may be wrong since you changed out the distributor.
There is no choke mechanism in electronic fuel injection systems. The ECU provides fuel enrichment during cold starts; this is governed by the coolant temperature sensor.
In your case, the ECU is posting a fault code of 13 which means a problem with the temperature sensor. Generally a bad temperature sensor will cause the ECU to provide an overly rich mixture.
If you got spark and fuel, then the ignition timing may be wrong since you changed out the distributor.
im gonna change the coolant temp sensor tomorow. but how do you know if it's in the right ignition timing because when i change the distributor i lined up the marks and the rotor is pointing on #1 cylinder and i re checked the timing chain as well
Last edited by jdmwong : Apr 8th, 2007 at 04:01 AM.
lots of people change parts like crazy and 90% of the time its just the wiring. Clean the connectors, crappy connection can lead to bad grounds I.e., non complete circuit.
I'm going through the same thing. No starting, will roll over but no spark. Coil is good and dizzy is brand new. Got an ignitor comming tommarrow, going to see if that fixes it. If not the only other thing it could be in the crank angle sensor not being referenced.
funny im getting the same thing, turns over but no spark. only i havent changed out my distributor yet.
im gonna change the coolant temp sensor tomorow. but how do you know if it's in the right ignition timing because when i change the distributor i lined up the marks and the rotor is pointing on #1 cylinder and i re checked the timing chain as well
It pays to recheck the ignition timing since the car is unable to start up.
Here's how to check the timing:
First you need to find Top Dead Center (TDC) for the COMPRESSION STROKE in order to time the ignition distributor. To find TDC, remove #1 spark plug and disconnect the ignition coil wire. Have someone tap the ignition switch start position to slowly crank the motor while you put you hand or thumb over the spark plug hole. When you feel the compression, stop. Now look down at the timing pointer at the front pulley. It should be pointing to ZERO. If not, manually turn the motor clockwise or counter-clockwise by hand until it's pointing to ZERO. Now determine the #1 plug wire location on the distributor cap. Mark that location on the distributor body. Now insert the distributor into the block, meshing the gears so that the rotor ends up pointing to the mark you put on the side of the distributor body. You now are timed close to correct; you should be able to start the motor.
Before starting the motor, set up a timing light so that you can set the timing to spec. Disconnect the TPS harness connector. It's located on the passenger's side of the engine just above the throttle assembly. Start engine and set timing to 20 degrees BTDC.
Linear Mode
