ok, i bled all 4 brakes today. they work somewhat now, but not like they should. i have to pump them a couple times every time i go to use them in order to make them work. i bled each one about twice. do you think that i should have done it a couple more times on each wheel?
If you have to pump them that is a symptom of the master cylinder bein' bad. Just to make sure you bleed it right start from RR,LF,LR,RF and do each corner at least 4 to 5 times. If it still persists then it is the master cylinder
actually come to think of it, i did the LF before the RF and i only did it like twice on each. i'll have to try it again tomorrow. does it make a huge difference that i did the LF before the RF?
Are you just gravity bleeding them? If you're just gravity bleeding them it might not be enough, even though it's always easier to start w/ gravity bleeding.
What you do, is you get someone to sit in the car, and when you open the bleeder valve they push the pedal to the floor, and they hold it there till you close the bleeder valve, then they can release the pedal. Make sure the valve is closed before they release the pedal though, if not you will suck air back in through the bleeder...
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yeah, i was having my brother push the pedal down while i bled them....he might have let the pedal off before i closed one or 2 of them. are speed bleeders the ones where you only need 1 person?
Yes, but when I redid my TA's brake system, I still had a friend press the brake pedal down. I ran a hose (cheap vacuum line) off the bleeder into a clear cup of brake fluid, that way I could see clearly if there was still air in the system.
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1996 Cutlass Supreme SL (not stock) 1 of 2 CS's w/ Grand Prix HUD and Dash!!
Mods - Custom Catback w/ Dual Flowmasters, Custom 3" FWI, 17" ADR Rims, SilverStar Conversion, Grand Prix HUD Swap, Grand Prix Dash, GMPP Trailing Arms, Carputer w/ Lilliput 7" Touchscreen, Kicker ZX200.4 Amp, HP Tuners MPVI Tuned http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...wserwerwer.jpg
Yeah, you'll bee bubbles in the fluid if there is still air, but don't stop right away, continue for a bit more to make sure it's all out, sometimes air will be mid-line and be a pain to get out. Make sure you do not run your master cylinder low!! If you do, you'll have to start over and prolly bench-bleed the master cylinder.
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1996 Cutlass Supreme SL (not stock) 1 of 2 CS's w/ Grand Prix HUD and Dash!!
Mods - Custom Catback w/ Dual Flowmasters, Custom 3" FWI, 17" ADR Rims, SilverStar Conversion, Grand Prix HUD Swap, Grand Prix Dash, GMPP Trailing Arms, Carputer w/ Lilliput 7" Touchscreen, Kicker ZX200.4 Amp, HP Tuners MPVI Tuned http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...wserwerwer.jpg