I am trying to go auto crossing by next year. Right now I am thinking about which engine to go with. I am not trying to start up any KA vs SR war. Just wanted to know a few things and hear a few opinions. Like which engine u guys think would be better for auto crossing and also since it will be my daily driver which one u guys think would be more reliable at about 300rwhp? Right now I'm thinking buy a KA24de for $300 put it down and just build it up over the next few months Rods, Pistons, Valves, Cams and hopefully drop it in with a Turbonetics t3/t4 by xmas. I was once obsessed with the srdet but just thinking now it costs so much more money. Thing is I love the fact that it is a higher revving engine. Is it possible to get enough protection on the KA to run up to 8000rpms or do u guys think it is just best to save for an SR?
I am trying to go auto crossing by next year. Right now I am thinking about which engine to go with. I am not trying to start up any KA vs SR war. Just wanted to know a few things and hear a few opinions. Like which engine u guys think would be better for auto crossing and also since it will be my daily driver which one u guys think would be more reliable at about 300rwhp? Right now I'm thinking buy a KA24de for $300 put it down and just build it up over the next few months Rods, Pistons, Valves, Cams and hopefully drop it in with a Turbonetics t3/t4 by xmas. I was once obsessed with the srdet but just thinking now it costs so much more money. Thing is I love the fact that it is a higher revving engine. Is it possible to get enough protection on the KA to run up to 8000rpms or do u guys think it is just best to save for an SR?
I guess but I kinda would love to get an idea for how much time and money to be able to do that with the KA. And I mean useful and realiable revving to 8000 regularly.
There are people around doing weird things with the KA such as individual throttle bodies and other all motor crazyness. I'd do a search over on NICO since thats where they seem to be. http://www.********.com/ However I would give up your dreams of high revving KA. Its a torque motor not a B series honda. "Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races" (carol shelby). If you are really going to be getting serious about the auto-x then I would get your motor up to par by changing all belts hoses and fluids to make it a reliable car instead of worrying about power. Then I'd focus on suspension and go for #1 in your class. Power isn't everything. You can be just as fast without alot of power. It's all driver when it comes to auto-x. Who cares how much power you have when you can only utilize 20% of it at any given time. I've heard stats from the customers of the shop I work for now. They are rockin 700+ hp and their stats come back and only a small portion of the race were they at WOT. I'd just get your stock motor running and let it be. Get good tires and suspension and also a well tuned motor via standalone.
This is the 700+hp i'm talkin about
porsche 911
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R.H.D s13-->T04E RB20DET
Wangan Stylez Super Stars Team
Last edited by OPIUM : Oct 26th, 2005 at 10:20 PM.
oh my gosh Wow!!!! I hear what u r saying. I fully intend to do my suspension. I alreeady have tein coilovers coming to me this week. They would have been here already if it wasn't for hurricane Wilma. It's just that now I am at the point where it's about time I get an engine and start preping it. I am not a HP freak tho and I thought that 300rwhp is on the sonservative side as alot of guys aren't satisfied until they get over 500 and have a Dyno Queen or a straight line car. I am a person that prefers circuits over the drag strip any day. I love the advice keep it coming.
Also thanks for the link
I autocross and Ive never went past 6700rpms at an event. I run a completely stock KA engine and, the area where I run is mainly a high 2nd gear area so I am close to redline more often than most 240 owners in my area ever think of going. My best advice to you is if you want to be competitive in your class, whichever it is, get some damn good tires and STB & Sway bars.....LSD helps out alot too....
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1991 RMS13-- DD; Slushbox, bad paint, and dents
1992 CS13-- Getting overhauled for WMD status.
Last edited by Nismo14-180 : Oct 26th, 2005 at 11:16 PM.
LSD may put you in another class if it wasn't stock on your car. However 300whp is very high for an auto-x car in an S chassis. 300hp basically equals 12 second 1/4 mile slips. I would say 200whp NA is probably an excellent goal however very hard to reach on a KA. Most I've seen is 180whp NA with a basic build. The best way to achieve a successfull season is to have reliability. Again, hoses, fluids and general overhaul/maintanence is the key to a great season. Stay focused on driving... not HP. It will do more harm than good.
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R.H.D s13-->T04E RB20DET
Wangan Stylez Super Stars Team
Yea, any aftermarket LSD puts you in STS, i believe, but I think coilovers do as well. But hell, if you can score a Type X clutch type LSD, they cant sat squat. Its stock after all. The SCCA rules are too touchy for me. Im running STS solely because my sportlines lower the car too much, otherwise I should be running in Street Modified or G Prepared....cant remember which one.
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1991 RMS13-- DD; Slushbox, bad paint, and dents
1992 CS13-- Getting overhauled for WMD status.
Yea, any aftermarket LSD puts you in STS, i believe, but I think coilovers do as well. But hell, if you can score a Type X clutch type LSD, they cant sat squat. Its stock after all. The SCCA rules are too touchy for me. Im running STS solely because my sportlines lower the car too much, otherwise I should be running in Street Modified or G Prepared....cant remember which one.
actually LSD is another thing I was thinking about. Where is the best place to get one? Off the JDM S13 or the Nismo which is close to $800. I figure their must be something almost as good that I can get off another car.
If you wanna be cheap, go to a junkyard and get the pumpkin, halfshafts, and drive shaft off an SE model. it should cost you around $400 for it all. If you want the Nismo model, all you need to do is buy it and get it installed. But you wont have to swap any of the shafts.
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1991 RMS13-- DD; Slushbox, bad paint, and dents
1992 CS13-- Getting overhauled for WMD status.
For auto-x I would recomend staying away from the viscous lsd. I have an R33 skyline VLSD and well its nice but not what I consider to be "awesome". I would say go for a quaife diff. Perfect for auto-x grip driving. Read a little about it here http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/pr...cc_projslivia/
quick excerpt
Quote:
This is why Quaife prefers the term "torque-biasing differential." Put both tires on pavement and go around a corner, however, and if the engineers who picked the gear angles did their jobs, the gears will send more torque to the grippier outside tire in just the right proportions to keep the inside tire from spinning.
I don't really care about burnouts, though, and a Quaife will give all the grip needed at the launch of our one drag racing attempt. After that, if I still have a job, it's all about handling, and that's where the Quaife has the advantage. Driving style has a lot to do with what kind of differential you prefer, but I prefer a car with neutral, predictable handling and a smooth, progressive transition to oversteer. A clutch-type limited slip will tend to be more aggressive in locking the two rear wheels together under acceleration. With both wheels trying to go the same speed, the car will try desperately to go straight. That means understeer.
__________________
R.H.D s13-->T04E RB20DET
Wangan Stylez Super Stars Team
Last edited by OPIUM : Oct 27th, 2005 at 12:05 AM.
LSDs will put you in STX
you dont need big upgrades to auto-x, there is stock classes
and NA KAs dont really cut it for 200whp, if you even made it there you'd end up being in the same class as a turbo KA
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What kind of modifications is needed to get the helical s14 lsd to fit and s13, and where can I find this quaiffe lsd on line at if i wanted to purchase it?
Wow!!!! I hear what u r saying. I fully intend to do my suspension. I alreeady have tein coilovers coming to me this week. They would have been here already if it wasn't for hurricane Wilma. It's just that now I am at the point where it's about time I get an engine and start preping it. I am not a HP freak tho and I thought that 300rwhp is on the sonservative side as alot of guys aren't satisfied until they get over 500 and have a Dyno Queen or a straight line car. I am a person that prefers circuits over the drag strip any day. I love the advice keep it coming. 
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