I just got a 02 spec v from the nissan dealership yesturday. The price was damned good and it came with a nissan certified warrenty. The car itself was a dealer buy back and it had an engine replacement (not sure why the engine went). Besides that the car has never had an accident and was taken good care of.
My question is this: Should I have anything to worry about since this engine is new besides treating it like a baby for the next 5k miles or so? I stay up with regular mainenence on my cars (last car was a 95 Sentra GXE with 145k miles and still going). I am just wondering if this could perhaps cause or maybe even save me from problems in the future, from what I read the newer engines will hold up a bit better most likely.
While a lot of people think the break in is a joke, it doesn't hurt to be safe and shift at 4k or lower (I believe 4 k is right??) and run the dino oil that came in the car to about 3750 at least before doing a synthetic change.
edit: since your clutch is probably already broken in you should be fine. Most of the V's hold up great if taken care of properly. Since it was a dealer buy back, they almost surely took care of any problems the car may have had. Remember to run premium on you V. Their awesome cars and welcome to the Forum!
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nothing to say
Last edited by NickZac : May 15th, 2004 at 12:52 PM.
I'd start to rev it out around 1K miles on the new engine. The car was desinged to run to redline and beyond. No point in breaking in the engine forever. You can have fun with it before your first oil change. Also, the car can run on 87, you will just loose power. Regular is breaking $2, so I might start running 87 in the car and just drive it easy for awhile. If you run 87 just don't floor your car and try and take it to red line. While the ECU can retard the timming, it is always tring to advance it as much as it can untill the knock sensor goes off. Also, warm summer air will make knock worse too. So the engine will knock a little while the ECU tries to run as aggresive as it can. Just drive to nice if you give it 87.
I'd start to rev it out around 1K miles on the new engine. The car was desinged to run to redline and beyond. No point in breaking in the engine forever. You can have fun with it before your first oil change. Also, the car can run on 87, you will just loose power. Regular is breaking $2, so I might start running 87 in the car and just drive it easy for awhile. If you run 87 just don't floor your car and try and take it to red line. While the ECU can retard the timming, it is always tring to advance it as much as it can untill the knock sensor goes off. Also, warm summer air will make knock worse too. So the engine will knock a little while the ECU tries to run as aggresive as it can. Just drive to nice if you give it 87.
So the V can run on 87 without too many knock problems and of course thou you lose power?
dont run 87 octane. i did once for about a week and a half and it nearly hydrolocked my engine. too much water in the lower grades of fuel. i put either 89-91 depending on money situation. Our spec-v's were meant for 91 octane not 87
dont run 87 octane. i did once for about a week and a half and it nearly hydrolocked my engine. too much water in the lower grades of fuel. i put either 89-91 depending on money situation. Our spec-v's were meant for 91 octane not 87
I thought the V was made for premium also. 91+, Chimmike says preferably 93 or up. Our engines do get knock rather easily, rite?
The car was desinged to run to redline and beyond.
uhm, no it wasn't.
Clearly, a dealer buyback ( AKA *LEMON* ) is gonna be a good deal, because the ex owner had to go thru hell to get Nissan to buy back the lemon.
hate to tell you man, but if that was a dealer buyback, it went thru more than one engine, and had a lot of other problems. I hope for your sake you didn't pay more than 6k for it.....
Also, the 2002s are EXTREMELY sensitive to knock....run 93 and nothing less. You run 87 and you'll get knock on a daily basis in normal driving during the hot summers.
Man, you should've researched a little before you bought a dealer buyback....or perhaps looked into the complete history of the car?
All I can say is good luck to you....you got a car that was so bad, Nissan was basically forced by law to buy it back (well, either they buy it back or the ex-owner takes them to court and the court forces nissan to buy it back......)
btw: wouldn't you think that if they re-sold a dealer buyback that they most likely fixed all of the car's problems and tested it? You could only hope that if a dealer resells a buy back that the problems were corrected and tested.
look....if it's a buyback, that means Nissan couldn't fix all the recurring problems......so what makes it possible to all of a sudden fix them all?
chances are likely the car is on it's 3rd or 4th engine, 2nd tranny, and has body/paint problems, electrical problems, or other. I can't even tell you how hard it was for the ex-owner to get it bought back man..........he went thru living hell. I promise you that.
I thought the V was made for premium also. 91+, Chimmike says preferably 93 or up. Our engines do get knock rather easily, rite?
Hydrolock?!?!?!?! What are you basing that on? Do you know what hydrolock means? There is no way in hell you are ever going to hydrolock a engine on pump gasoline. 87 burns faster then 93 and at a lower tempurature. There is no way in hell that 87 octain is not going to burn and hydrolock the pistons.
The owners manual says that 87 can be used. The engine has a knock sensor for a reason. As long as the knock sensor and ECU is working 87 is safe to use. You will just loose power.
Hydrolock?!?!?!?! What are you basing that on? Do you know what hydrolock means? There is no way in hell you are ever going to hydrolock a engine on pump gasoline. 87 burns faster then 93 and at a lower tempurature. There is no way in hell that 87 octain is not going to burn and hydrolock the pistons.
The owners manual says that 87 can be used. The engine has a knock sensor for a reason. As long as the knock sensor and ECU is working 87 is safe to use. You will just loose power.
Yes it was. The stock set redline cut off is set at a safe level. Manfactures set ECU programs and HP at very safe levels so that engine's will last at least till the waranty runs out (hopefully longer) so that a company doesn't have to pay for engines blowing up. They try and desing cars so stupid people can drive them and hopefully not break them. Because if a engine fails in warranty, the company has to prove it was neglect. So any car company is going to try and cover thair ass, sell a tuned down car that can take the abuse of stupid americans who don't know how to open the hood to the engine bay, or check the oil. They need to desing cars for the mechanicly impared and have it last till the power train warranty runs out.
In stock form, nothing is going to be hurt by shifting right before RPM cutoff. If you bounce off of redline, you won't break anything.
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