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QR25 2.5L Engine Engine Discussion: 2002+ Sentra SE-R and SpecV

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Old Aug 14th, 2009, 06:09 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Spec V Wont Start (runs for 10 seconds tops)

I have an 03 Spec V with 125k Miles.
Full Stainless 2.5" Exhaust. DC Sports Header. Aem CAI. (since 40k miles all upgrades).
It has the ECM recall done. (newer spark plugs)

My car slowly developed a problem with stalling for no reason while driving. Its like somebody turned the key off while driving, engine completely died. Push in the clutch, RPMs fall to 0. The only way it would restart would be to turn the car completely off for about 5-20 seconds and it would start and run perfect.

The very rare stalling occured once a week at first, then a few time a week, then everytime it ran, to multiple times per trip. Usually something electronic would just short out.

Before the car stopped running, it started to break up at higher RPMs, loss of power.

The car will start and run good for 2 seconds then start to die out. When i start the car and hit the gas right away it immediatly dies out.

I put a new fuel pump in the car, and its still doing the same thing.
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Old Aug 14th, 2009, 06:14 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Try removing the fuel cap and see if it runs ok. A faulty fuel cap vent can stop a car dead in it's tracks. It happened to my Dads old Nissan Bluebird.
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Old Aug 15th, 2009, 11:36 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Well tried to start the car with the fuel cap off (I am guessing you were refering to the one where you put fuel in the car).

Still no go.

I am thinking it could be a vacuum issue because of whenever I hit the gas, in the few short seconds its running, it dies immediately.

I would appreciate anybody else's insight, I have searched the pages of the forum and havn't found much. Nobody has really had a problem similar to this one.

Thanks

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Old Aug 16th, 2009, 02:43 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I replaced the Camshaft position sensor, now the car runs.
But whenever I hit the gas it doesn't go higher than 2500 RPMs, no matter how much gas I give it. I unplugged the battery so it will reset all the codes so the computer isn't trying to put the car in limp mode for no reason. Anybody have any ideas?

The car threw 12 codes off a reader.
P0420 - Catalysis (header & 2.5" exhaust)
P0455 - Nissan Specific Code
P1448 - Another Nissan Specific Code
P0340 - Camshaft Pos Sensor (just replaced part, now it stays running)
P1122 - Nissan Specific Code
P0031 - Nissan Specific Code
P0123 - TPS (unplugged when trying to diagnois problem)
P0183 - Fuel Temp Sensor (left unplugged to check voltage for new pump)
P0463 - Fuel Level High Input (left unplugged to check voltage for new pump)
P0223 - TPS (unplugged when trying to diagnois problem)

Pending Codes
P0420 - Catalysis (header & 2.5" exhaust)
P0455 - Nissan Specific Code
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Old Aug 16th, 2009, 04:15 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Your vehicle is in limp mode. The catalyst codes are most likely from having a catless exhaust.

P0455 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (gross leak)
P0031 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

A bad TPS will throw your car into limp mode.
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Old Aug 16th, 2009, 04:52 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Would the TPS throw a code if I unplug it while I was trying to find the problem?

Isn't the TPS part of the throttle body? so if i need a new one, its expensive.

I will take it to an autoparts store and clear the codes, and see how she runs after that.
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Old Aug 17th, 2009, 06:19 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Lightbulb

Since the cars running in limp mode, I took it to an autoparts store to have it scanned. Turned out to be the MAF, I erased the codes and it immediatiatly came back on as MAF. So I took it to a local shop.

For $30s the guy put it on the computer where we monitored the MAF read out. Its supposed to be 1.0 - 1.5 @ idle and 1.7-2.1 @ 2,500 rpms.

The whole time we were testing it, it stayed at 1.0.
From idle to the 2200ish rpms that limp mode will let me go the readout stayed at 1.0.

We cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner and still no improvement on the output. We checked the voltage and continuity of the harness and they were correct.

Good ground, 12v power, 5v power, i think another 5v.

Ebay has some cheap MAFs, or I can get one from my cousins autopart store for 220ish.

Anybody think that it could be something else? all the signs point to MAF, because the computer that diagnose'd it said it would be in limp mode with a faulty MAF.
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Old Aug 19th, 2009, 05:00 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Yes, unplugging the TB will throw the code in the process of troubleshooting. The computer would be correct. A bad MAF will most certainly put your car in limp mode. Cleaning it is about the only thing that you can do for it. Since that didnt work out, then you'll have to replace the MAF. You have to find a MAF from the 02-03 QRs. 04-06 used slightly different ones which are NOT compatible between the years. You CAN use a MAF from an Altima 2.5S of the same year as well.
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