I just thought I would give a heads up as to what I’ve been up to down here in sunny South Africa. As it turns out there are two types of QG18 engines here in SA, one is a UK spec Hatchback with NVTC (Nissan Variable Valve Timing) & an SA spec sedan with no NVTC, for info the current Australian Pulsar N16’s have NVTC as well as Fly By Wire Throttle. For a small country the aftermarket car scene is pretty big, not comparable to the US but not bad. The Nissan’s that rule the roost down here are the old SR20DE powered 200Sti’s (similar to the N14 Pulsar SSS) and SR20DET powered S14 200SX Coupes (Silvia’s). There is little or no interest in the Almera N16/B15 generation of cars, there are loads of them around but they have about nil street credentials as all the rental companies use them & most of them are QG16DE’s anyway. For the price its 118hp doesn’t really compare to the slightly more expensive options available here such as the Toyota RunX 1.8 Rsi (195hp), 206 2.0 Gti180 (180hp), Renault Clio 2.0 Sport (177hp) and Ford Focus 2.0 ST170 (170hp).
To try & keep up I have re-profiled the cams in my QG18DE Almera sedan. The profile is pretty mild and works well from low revs all the way to red line even though my engine doesn’t have NVTC. The profile is similer to a Schrick 250 profile but has a slightly smaller base circle. It was developed on a non NVTC engine so a much wilder cam can be run in a NVTC engine so there will generally be more gains. So far I haven’t had any wear issues on the cams, they were just reground & we found there was no reason to nitride them, as the hardening was deep enough.
The power measured on my standard 04 Almera was 61wkw (82whp) at 6100rpm. With custom branches (headers), a wet panel filter (locally made similar to K&N) & 57mm (2.25") mandrel bent exhaust & a Unichip piggy back ecu that went to 69wkw (92.8whp) at the same revs. Then with a mildly flowed head & re-profiled cams it went to 79wkw(106whp) @ 6500rpm. The figures may seem low but it was tested at high altitude as Johannesburg is almost 1830m (6,000 ft) above sea level & on average we have at least an 18% loss of power compared to figures achieved at the coast so theoretically the car should produce 93wkw (125whp) or almost 130kw (175hp) at the flywheel when tested at the coast. This is comparable to a standard SR20DE powered Sentra Sti which makes on average 73wkw at altitude & 86wkw at the coast (its rated at 105kw at the flywheel). So far my set-up has cost me about 1500US$, damn.
Obviously the cams weren't the only gain as the head was flowed as well but the car doesn't have a CAI, which would increase power further, but in general there could possibly be a gain of more than 10whp with a decent cam for the US cars if JWT do produce them. My engine currently has a very good torque curve pulling strongly from 3000rpm all the way to redline, my ECU is modified & currently I have the piggyback ECU controlling the rev limit still set at 6500rpm. If & when I get brave I’ll let it rev a bit more as the power is still climbing at max revs, from the power curve it could peak at about 7000 which could be worth about 5kw (7hp).
Possible future modifications include a custom centrifugal supercharger with an Intercooler that’s why I haven’t fitted a CAI yet; I don’t mind turbo’s but due to our hot, dry & thin air turbo’s spin a lot faster than at the coast to get to the same boost so reliability may be an issue, the best part about forced induction is there is very little power loss compared to the coast so boosted cars rule up here. Are any of you living in high altitude area’s & if so how has your reliability been with a Turbo. I know I need FI, I need to get into the 14’0s, my car is currently scratching to get into the 16’s. BTW as a comparison I went to the track this weekend & at this altitude the quarter mile for a standard Golf 5 GTI was 15.5s, a 350Z on street rubber was 15.0s, two BMW M3 CSL’s ran 14.4’s & 3 Vortech supercharged Z’s ran 14.0s, a 550hp GTR34 ran 12.8s & a Noble M12 ran 12.2s. A bit of boost goes a long way.
sounds good race. You might want to try porting the intake manifold or having it extrude honed, as that will help. Remember though that you will need the unichip retuned to add additional fuel to compensate for the larger amount of airflow let in the engine.
I don't know of any sources for a Primera FSM. try www.phatg20.net and see if they have an Almera one for the n16 Almera...which shares engines with us.
i was wondering if i was to remove my stock springs and i cut them would that work. i work with metal so i would be able to cut it. its just a question!!! give me sum feed back.
i have a 2004 sentra 1.8s and i want to put a cold air intake in it. but all i can find is intakes for the SER. I talk to one guy and he said that a intake for the SER would not fit my engine size which is a QG18DE... Could any one help me out on where to look or what to do... I would appreciate it. Thanks
i have a 2004 sentra 1.8s and i want to put a cold air intake in it. but all i can find is intakes for the SER. I talk to one guy and he said that a intake for the SER would not fit my engine size which is a QG18DE... Could any one help me out on where to look or what to do... I would appreciate it. Thanks
Unless your getting hotshot or Weapon R intake, Dont worry about the SE-R tag.. hotshot is a direct fit. IF your looking for a intake off ebay, I can assure you that they are all for SE-R and it dosnt matter because they work anyways with slight modification, and by that i mean very very simple. I have a QG18DE and Im using a ebay intake for SE-R and it fits perfect and out performs my friends AEM intake and Sounds better.
where's your dyno proof that your ebay generic outperforms your friend's AEM?
Don't make completely baseless comments when you have ZERO proof.
btw, all CAIs sound the same.
and an intake for an SE-R will NOT easily fit. First, the piping location for a QR25 throttle body is different than the QG18DE. Second, the MAF bolt pattern is different.
Third, a cheapass ebay intake has about the worst, most dangerous filter you can use. Might as well not even run one.
where's your dyno proof that your ebay generic outperforms your friend's AEM?
Don't make completely baseless comments when you have ZERO proof.
btw, all CAIs sound the same.
and an intake for an SE-R will NOT easily fit. First, the piping location for a QR25 throttle body is different than the QG18DE. Second, the MAF bolt pattern is different.
Third, a cheapass ebay intake has about the worst, most dangerous filter you can use. Might as well not even run one.
Sorry Mr. Sentra God, I guess u were right their with me when i installed mine... Oh my god was it hard to fit..... *not* Not trying to be rude just dont see paying 240 dallors for a aem intake just to make the MAF sensor bolts line up perfectly... I cut the square edges off my MAF sensor and put pieced it together like it was part of the intake pipeing... Go ahead tell me how stupid that was.. I dont care it works and I know for a fact it has more power because my friend also ran a ebay one before is aem and he even said he lost power... So I guess this is all opionions.
i have an 04 1.8 and i'm considering getting a hotshot cai. thing is, i called hotshot and they told me that it would NOT fit the 04+ qg and that if i installed it, there may be damages to my engine. this got me a lil skeptical of this mod. but i have heard that a lot of people have installed it in their 04s and 05s with no problems. only thing i heard was that the installation for the cai was different on 04s and 05s than on the older QGs. is this true? and if it is, how big of a difference is the installation? do u suggest i get another intake?
Do they make any upgrade Throttle Bodies for the 2005 1.8L Nissan Sentra? The other question I had is one of the other post asked if the Hotshot Header will damage the 2005 1.8L engine, will it? What is the most Horse Power I will see out of the 1.8L has any one max one out yet? Thanks.
i was wondering if i was to remove my stock springs and i cut them would that work. i work with metal so i would be able to cut it. its just a question!!! give me sum feed back.
The stock springs have a specific built in progressive travel. Unless you can forge a different progression on it....BAD (as been previously stated). Go with aftermarket springs (I have goldlines that lowered 1.5 front and back). Keep the stock ones incase you sell the car and want to part out the springs)