I have a qg18de b15, and have been following the npm qg18de turbo project.
I want to turbo my qg18, and have found this kit at prostreet online but I did a
bit of research and cant find anything about this company, or even testing
to back up their claimed 56% horsepower gain.
I'm more than certain that this kit would be a waste of time and money,
but I wanted to ask if anyone has heard anything about this kit.
any turbo kit on a 1.8 is a waste of money honestly
stick with a 50 shot if you need something. you'll be lucky to get 200 whp out of a turbo kit before the motor or tranny blow up
any turbo kit on a 1.8 is a waste of money honestly
stick with a 50 shot if you need something. you'll be lucky to get 200 whp out of a turbo kit before the motor or tranny blow up
What a load of crap.. the power is there to be made if you have the cash. My QG18DE is getting a bit over 250 hp at the wheels (but since american dyno's seem to give different figures to here thats twice the power of having it NA with headers and a performance exhaust) been going strong now for the last few months and no hassles. Its driven every day for work..
i've been talking with my uncle, he use to work for a performance shop here in san antonio
(they specialize in turbo kits, they did a $20K kit for a 1998 dodge viper gts), he now works
for a metal shop...
he says that i could turbo my car for $1k to $2k, just need to know what's not worth buying,
what's cheaper to make, and what's cheaper to buy used.
the plan is to buy a used volvo turbo, a t28 or t25 i think, need to do more research on
that... will probably need a rebuild kit, but even then it comes out a lot cheaper then a new
t28 (less power of course, probably not adjustable, which means if i want more boost then i
will need to buy a newer turbo eventually, but its not bad for a start)
- protech turbo manifold (my uncle is working on a manifold and if works out then i'll use
it) i'm not going to bother with coating on the manifold if i get it from protech, i'll just
spray paint it with high heat paint made for bar-b-que pits
- nismo fuel pressure regulator (does any1 know if this is a rising rate, and how hard is it to
mount on this motor)
- 007p diverter valve
- the intercooler and piping for a se b15 (but again my uncle says he can fab them up
pretty easily and cheaply, he even has the intercooler cores already)
- the downpipe will be a custom job at a local shop
- oil lines, oil fittings, O2 sensor bungs, and turbo flanges
- tuned at a local shop
- boost/vac, oil pressure, and air/fuel gauges
I'm going to fore go the APEX SAFC, larger injectors, and a fuel pump, that alone can shave
at least $1K off that $5K kit listed on this forum. When time comes to increase boost, i'll
need to upgrade the fuel system, but not til then.
When i get enough money to raise the boost i'll be looking to buy a few parts:
- new gt28r dual ball-bearing
- replace head bolts with studs
- forged rods
- forged lower-compression pistons (between 8 and 8.5)
- 2" to 2.5" exhaust
- larger injector (again more research is needed)
- apex safc
- walbro fuel pump
- tuned at a local shop
my goal is to push this little motor to around 300wph, but small steps at a time and allot of
research.
If you want to save cash heres my advice:
- if you are getting a custom manifold made up consider using a WRX turbo (TD04L), over here they are significantly cheaper and newer then the garret range. (200-400 Australian dollars for a turbo less than 5 years old) And with the wrx having such good support theres plenty of turbos with the same fittings/foot print that will bolt up to your manifold. But dont buy it until you know your using a custom manifold or you might have a spare useless turbo to sell.
- Get the fuel pump and regulator, its cheap insurance for your fuel system.
- Dont skimp on engine management you dont wanna blow the thing up..
For the record i only run 10psi on my TD04L and tuned right its good for a bit over 250 hp, if you were brave you could easily boost it up to 16 psi with no hassles from the turbo but id be worried about the engine. Im running completely standard internals too.
Things your forgetting off the top of my head -
Heavy duty clutch
Lightened flywheel (may as well do it when gearbox is out for clutch)
Proper engine management like a standalone ECU or a good reflash if thats an option
Spark plugs - 1 heat range colder then normal
For 300 hp @ the wheels you will need to upgrade the electrical system (coils etc) because mine is starting to run out of puff in spots.
that TSI extreme kit isn't specifically for the QG18DE. The fitment will be poor and quality is even worse.
check my website for some info.
Gregor, if you're talking bhp, at 250whp you'd probably be on the ragged edge of blowing the stock motor. Using a lightweight flywheel on a turbo car isn't optimal because you loose the rotational momentum between shifts, causing a momentary lag of power as the motor catches up.
For 200+ wheel horsepower, on stock internals, I'd definitely use 2 step colder plugs. There are no reflashes.
that TSI extreme kit isn't specifically for the QG18DE. The fitment will be poor and quality is even worse.
check my website for some info.
Gregor, if you're talking bhp, at 250whp you'd probably be on the ragged edge of blowing the stock motor. Using a lightweight flywheel on a turbo car isn't optimal because you loose the rotational momentum between shifts, causing a momentary lag of power as the motor catches up.
For 200+ wheel horsepower, on stock internals, I'd definitely use 2 step colder plugs. There are no reflashes.
I am talking that much power mike, i doubt ill be blowing the engine anytime soon though. Its all to do with tuning, you were using an safc werent you ? I'm using a replacement ECU (from microtech) that gives FAR greater control over what my engine is doing any point in the rev range, the only real comprimise is that my cold starts arent as smooth but ill put up with that for the safety of my engine. And ive got more power than other comparable set ups because of the tuning potential too.
Im failing to see why using a lightened flywheel would make a negative difference on a turbo car though.. On a small turbo you get through the rev range quicker and on a big turbo you will be able to spool up the turbo that little bit quicker getting you on boost sooner.
I am talking that much power mike, i doubt ill be blowing the engine anytime soon though. Its all to do with tuning, you were using an safc werent you ? I'm using a replacement ECU (from microtech) that gives FAR greater control over what my engine is doing any point in the rev range, the only real comprimise is that my cold starts arent as smooth but ill put up with that for the safety of my engine. And ive got more power than other comparable set ups because of the tuning potential too.
Im failing to see why using a lightened flywheel would make a negative difference on a turbo car though.. On a small turbo you get through the rev range quicker and on a big turbo you will be able to spool up the turbo that little bit quicker getting you on boost sooner.
I was using emanage. Do you have dynos showing the whp you're making? I'm not doubting, I'm just interested to see the power curve. Or are you talking bhp?
As for the light flywheel, think about it. The moment you shift, you let off the gas. That lgiht flywheel doesn't maintain momentum the heavier stock unit does. So that means, when you get into gear, there's a momentary lag before boost where the flywheel/engine has to catch up to the speed of the transmission gear.
Trust me, I had a UR flywheel with boost. It doesn't help noticeably with spool in either sense, and it creates a lag issue between shifts. Not worth it. A beefier clutch definitely is.
I was using emanage. Do you have dynos showing the whp you're making? I'm not doubting, I'm just interested to see the power curve. Or are you talking bhp?
As for the light flywheel, think about it. The moment you shift, you let off the gas. That lgiht flywheel doesn't maintain momentum the heavier stock unit does. So that means, when you get into gear, there's a momentary lag before boost where the flywheel/engine has to catch up to the speed of the transmission gear.
Trust me, I had a UR flywheel with boost. It doesn't help noticeably with spool in either sense, and it creates a lag issue between shifts. Not worth it. A beefier clutch definitely is.
Correction i have about 200 hp atw - 146 kw (the first website i used the calculator from must be off)
Dyno graph is in the first post. Power curve is a little bit off because i have a wastegate issue due to where my manifold sits my turbo and having to mod the wastegate. Im thinking about getting a new waste gate to fix.
Also i have a rev limit at 6 grand which is costing me extra power to as the ignition system cant seem to keep up with the boost at the top of the rev range.
There is a lot of power left in the car if i address the ignition system and wastegate issue, it has a pretty conservative tune too. But its not at the 250 hp mark yet so i apologise for misleading anyone earlier. That said 250 hp atw from a QG is quite possible from the gains ive seen so far. Id imagine i can reach that figure at around 14 psi, which is stretching how far you would want to push a internally standard NA engine but not impossible or even unplausible.
you shouldn't be having ignition issues at 200whp.
for my 191whp dyno, I was running 7psi. The last 5 months I owned the car, I ran 10psi....probably 210-220whp. I never had any ignition problems or cutting out.........you shouldn't be having ignition problems at that power level either, something must be off in your settings. What's your plug gap at? I'd close it to .025" or so (I don't know what that is in mm) and you can use 1 step colder plugs, like NGK BKR6E's.
Trust me, the ignition can handle 230whp with ease
I also agree 250whp is doable on the QG18DE with a good safe tune. But beware not to run too much timing in the boost threshold, and make sure it doesn't run tooo rich or obviously hydrolock could become an issue and throw a rod.
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