Here's the list of parts and websites you can get 'em from:
Protech manifold http://www.protech-fabrication.com
The manifold can be custom flanged and coated for whatever you want.
Turbo (I recommend Powertech)
www.powertechimports.com
I recommend the GT28R basically because it's the perfect turbo for the engine, response wise. If you get the GT28R, get the compressor inlet and outlet flanges from atpturbo.com they're awesome.
Downpipe this will be a custom job, but the turbo exhaust flange can be had from
www.atpturbo.com and mandrel bends from
www.vrsexhaust.com for cheap. Have a shop fab it up for you, easy. Also you'll need some O2 sensor bungs from atp turbo. Say 2. Also you'll need a flexpipe. I suggest 2.5" piping for the turbo outlet due to clearance issues.
intercooler and piping The powertech b15 SE intercooler kit with aluminum piping fits with basically no modification at all.
www.powertechimports.com but you'll need silicone couplers and hose clamps. Also, I suggest the Forge 007p diverter valve as a bov, and recirculate it.
www.forgemotorsport.com
Fuel management walbro 190lph pump is fine, as is an SAFC II.
www.powertechimports.com for these parts. Greddy Emanage is good for fuel control but it's a little picky if you want to adjust timing with it (thats not necessary anyways) Injectors, again, powertechimports, get MSD style 32# injectors with harnesses and clips....ALSO! Get a nismo adjustable fuel pressure regulator and fuel pressure gauge. The regulator will bolt right on the stock fuel rail in place of the stocker.
exhaust VRS 3" tubing kit.
www.vrsexhaust.com it's like $150.
gauges autometer gauges can be had from summit for a decent price, primary needed is boost.
oil lines http://www.nissport.com/catalog/prod...e=Applications for the oil sender adapter. Get it, you'll thank me. Then fittings for the turbo,
www.atpturbo.com they have a GT turbo fittings kit, buy that. It's awesome. The oil lines themselves can be ordered from Powertech as well, just specify the fittings you need (you'll know, trust me)
Tips: For capping off the EGR, there's an axle nut I think from either a nissan or a honda, that will work, you must have a piece of metal welded on it to make it into a cap.
Only run the 2 Pre-cat o2 sensors, the 2 post cat sensors are useless. It's gonna set off a CEL, but the car won't run poorly.
RECIRCULATE THE BOV. Trust me. Don't be a ricer.
If you want to water cool your turbo (I highly recommend this) run the water lines from the throttle body. Just run one from the line that originally goes to hte TB, run that to the turbo. Then run the other line out of the turbo into the TB.
for the oil return line: Buy a spare oil pan for your specific model year QG, have a shop drill and tap the lower pan with the appropriate fitting in the proper location for the oil drain.
it's not especially hard, it just takes some dedication.
and for using greddy e-manage:
Well here's the dilly from what I've gathered so far with the e-manage:
In order for it to read RPM and get control of timing, you need the RPM adapter from Greddy, part number 15900904. There will be 2 wires unused
Controlling timing is very touchy. If you adjust timing any way in lower rpm, the car runs funky. The stock ECU doesn't like it at all. Top end, higher up in the MAF voltages seems to be okay so far though.
Fuel control is good. The adjustment for larger injectors, where you put in stock and where you went to seems to lean it out a bit more than expected, so I don't use that feature at all and leave correction at 1. I'd rather have it run rich for the time being than lean, especially the way I drive.
A great feature I've come upon is the boost sensor/harness. This will allow me to increase fuel upon sensing boost. This way, when I'm in closed loop, where the normal e-manage settings don't come into play, it will increase fuel when I boost in partial throttle.
Tuning is tricky. If you don't have a wideband with proper datalogging software and prior use of e-manage or tuning software, I HIGHLY suggest paying someone to do it on a dyno.