As per the article on the bottom end, the compression ratio after unshrouding the valves in the combustion chamber is 9.6:1 with no headwork its 9.8:1. In the first issue we added a trans cooler. We plan to add a transgo shfit kit soon.
We dynoed it at 265 whp up from the stock with bolt ons 125 whp. This is the same as a supercharged fronteir with an automatic transmission without the heat and stress of a supercharger..
I only asked about the compression as I thought it might have changed with further work. My bad on missing the tranny cooler.
Your engine is putting 265horse to the wheels....nice. If one uses a conservative estimate of 15% loss of power, your engine is putting as much to the wheels as a VG30DeTT or a VQ35DE from a later Z or G35.
As for the Supercharged Fronty comparison, Your way off, your putting way more HP to the ground then even a manaul supercharged Fronty. I owned the later, even with a manual tranny she was a dog relative to the fact that the Supercharged engine sucked gas like a sive. Your Pathfinder would be a freaking blast with a manual and the wheels and tires your running.
I've got a 1994 Pathfinder and reading your Article early last year was my inspriation to do the VG34E. Got every part, including heads that have already been pNp'd with a 3-angle valve job, just need some install time.
Peace & Keep up the good work. I'll send your pics and info when I'm finished building the 800-1000hp VG30E that I'm swapping in my 1996 240sx shell.
I only asked about the compression as I thought it might have changed with further work. My bad on missing the tranny cooler.
Your engine is putting 265horse to the wheels....nice. If one uses a conservative estimate of 15% loss of power, your engine is putting as much to the wheels as a VG30DeTT or a VQ35DE from a later Z or G35.
As for the Supercharged Fronty comparison, Your way off, your putting way more HP to the ground then even a manaul supercharged Fronty. I owned the later, even with a manual tranny she was a dog relative to the fact that the Supercharged engine sucked gas like a sive. Your Pathfinder would be a freaking blast with a manual and the wheels and tires your running.
I've got a 1994 Pathfinder and reading your Article early last year was my inspriation to do the VG34E. Got every part, including heads that have already been pNp'd with a 3-angle valve job, just need some install time.
Peace & Keep up the good work. I'll send your pics and info when I'm finished building the 800-1000hp VG30E that I'm swapping in my 1996 240sx shell.
Whoa sorry, I was meaning 175 whp, I had a brain fart. It has a slightly better powerband with the same peak power as a supercharged automatic Xterra we dynod at the same time.
Send us pics of your project, we would love to feature it.
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Whoa sorry, I was meaning 175 whp, I had a brain fart. It has a slightly better powerband with the same peak power as a supercharged automatic Xterra we dynod at the same time.
Send us pics of your project, we would love to feature it.
Hey,
I always use a conservative estimate of 15% for frontWD or RWD cars and 21% HP loss for awd or 4x4 trucks. You must be losing some serious HP @ the wheels. The 265 definitely sounded way to high and 175whp sounds to low...huuummm.
Did you do an Oil filter relocation. Said mod will give a 5.5 quart oil capacity with excellent filtration with two huge oil filters. The stock Oil capacity is pathetic for a hard working mod'd engine. All you have to do is custom fab some kind of tray under the filters for oil drip during changes.
I'm starting on my S14 project in a month. I'd love for you guys to feature it. I wanna shoot for 1000+crank hp....we'll c. Lots and lots of money going into my VG30E w/ a cryo treated VG30DETT forged crank and everything you can think of.
Everything is a trade off(of course) but I'd really prefer the stock 240sx IFS with a nice LSD. I have a feeling that I'm gonna have to custom fab a Ford 9" rear axle as I just can't c the stock rear IFS handling 900+ horses. Love the Straight axles on the drag strip and can't stand em on the street....we'll c.
I always use a conservative estimate of 15% for frontWD or RWD cars and 21% HP loss for awd or 4x4 trucks. You must be losing some serious HP @ the wheels. The 265 definitely sounded way to high and 175whp sounds to low...huuummm.
Did you do an Oil filter relocation. Said mod will give a 5.5 quart oil capacity with excellent filtration with two huge oil filters. The stock Oil capacity is pathetic for a hard working mod'd engine. All you have to do is custom fab some kind of tray under the filters for oil drip during changes.
I'm starting on my S14 project in a month. I'd love for you guys to feature it. I wanna shoot for 1000+crank hp....we'll c. Lots and lots of money going into my VG30E w/ a cryo treated VG30DETT forged crank and everything you can think of.
Everything is a trade off(of course) but I'd really prefer the stock 240sx IFS with a nice LSD. I have a feeling that I'm gonna have to custom fab a Ford 9" rear axle as I just can't c the stock rear IFS handling 900+ horses. Love the Straight axles on the drag strip and can't stand em on the street....we'll c.
Peace
An automatic transmission soaks up lots of power as does the heavy 4WD drivetrain. For example an A/T FWD Supercharged Xtterra had about the same peak power and less power under the curve.
A R200 diff with a 4 pinion LSD can withstand 900 hp, the stub axles will break first. Keep us in mind for your car, we would love to feature it.
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An automatic transmission soaks up lots of power as does the heavy 4WD drivetrain. For example an A/T FWD Supercharged Xtterra had about the same peak power and less power under the curve.
A R200 diff with a 4 pinion LSD can withstand 900 hp, the stub axles will break first. Keep us in mind for your car, we would love to feature it.
Yeah, the auto tranny is killing your power. I've always heard 15%+ power loss from Auto trannies. If your tranny takes a dump I'd just swap a 5 Speed.
Anyway, thanks for the diff info. My goal will be 8.90 Seconds @ 163Mph or better. I wanna multimap ecu so I can run as much HP on the street as possible on 91 and then 101 Trick gas(right around the corner from me for $4.50/gallon) for the drag strip. It'll end up being a street legal race car.
I actually have a RB26DETT(Godzilla..hehe) engine pretty much stole from a JDM importer but I don't even know if the I-6 will fit in the 240. The VG30E has .4 more displacement and it's lighter then the later engine. I think it's gonna freaking rock in the S14! Inline engines are easier to work on but it's all relative. In my 1972 240Z the VG30E has enough room in the engine bay for anything you'd wanna put in their.
You definitley set a Bar for WD21 N/A Pathfinder power.
Yeah, the auto tranny is killing your power. I've always heard 15%+ power loss from Auto trannies. If your tranny takes a dump I'd just swap a 5 Speed.
Anyway, thanks for the diff info. My goal will be 8.90 Seconds @ 163Mph or better. I wanna multimap ecu so I can run as much HP on the street as possible on 91 and then 101 Trick gas(right around the corner from me for $4.50/gallon) for the drag strip. It'll end up being a street legal race car.
I actually have a RB26DETT(Godzilla..hehe) engine pretty much stole from a JDM importer but I don't even know if the I-6 will fit in the 240. The VG30E has .4 more displacement and it's lighter then the later engine. I think it's gonna freaking rock in the S14! Inline engines are easier to work on but it's all relative. In my 1972 240Z the VG30E has enough room in the engine bay for anything you'd wanna put in their.
You definitley set a Bar for WD21 N/A Pathfinder power.
An auto si better for towing and off road so its staying auto. The RB is an easy sway in a 240, their are kits to do it even. Its also a lot easier motor to get 1000 hp out of, there are bolt on solutions for this kind of power with an RB.
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I don't like SUV's and I don't want to spend any more money on one than I have to! Plus the old pathfinder has better brakes, stronger body on frame construction and much better off road capabilty. The motor I am going to build has 260 hp and more torque than the VQ stock.
Mike
I am extremely, extremely interested in learing about how you will make the VG30e engine in your Pathfinder make 260 HP naturally aspirated. I know it has a very strong bottom end, but the intake manifold and upper breaking limit power to about 170HP with stock stuff. I'm owner of a 1993 Nissan Maxima and the same basic VG30e engine. Would love to learn how you're doing it, what parts you'll buy and so forth, to make about an extra 100 Horse than what you have now. I like the torque delivery of the VG engine family and I have a 2001 VQ engine as well, in a 2001 Maxima and even thought it has more power, it is a nicer torque band in the older VG engine in my opinion. I love my old 3rd Generation Maxima and any ideas of improving the VG30 engine in a Pathfinder should be equally applicable to the older Maxima as well I think.
I am extremely, extremely interested in learing about how you will make the VG30e engine in your Pathfinder make 260 HP naturally aspirated. I know it has a very strong bottom end, but the intake manifold and upper breaking limit power to about 170HP with stock stuff. I'm owner of a 1993 Nissan Maxima and the same basic VG30e engine. Would love to learn how you're doing it, what parts you'll buy and so forth, to make about an extra 100 Horse than what you have now. I like the torque delivery of the VG engine family and I have a 2001 VQ engine as well, in a 2001 Maxima and even thought it has more power, it is a nicer torque band in the older VG engine in my opinion. I love my old 3rd Generation Maxima and any ideas of improving the VG30 engine in a Pathfinder should be equally applicable to the older Maxima as well I think.
I fully agree with jadcock on the modern vehicles modification , as they can easily acheived, I had a friend of mine who did his mods on the chevy blazer, this what i have seen to his stock engine. He piggybacks his stoch ECU and also modulated the torque convertor. What happens is the High Flow Intake system adjusts the air-fuel ratio to optimal settings in conjunction with the Intake system. I think stock intake system from pathfinder has deficiencies in supplying air needed by the engine.This system helps the engine breath much better and give the car quicker acceleration and much crisper throttle response in the entire RPM range. Performance gains: +9-12% HP and +9-12% torque.
The mods carried were on the manifold, exhausts , piggyback ecu, and torque convertor using The material choice was ductile Iron because of its superior properties in turbo manifold applications such as excellent crack resistance, high temperature .
__________________ PATHFINDER2004 Bosch HIDs - Xenon , Nokia CAR-K 91H with CA-55 PopPort conversion, Dynamat Xtreme, Garmin iQue 3600 GPS Navigation w/ 1GB SD Memory Upgrade, Escort Passport 8500 X50, Audiovox Xpress XM tuner with Delphi FM Wired Modulator,Rear Parking Sensors, Thorley Headers & Flowmaster 50 series Exhaust.
I fully agree with jadcock on the modern vehicles modification , as they can easily acheived, I had a friend of mine who did his mods on the chevy blazer, this what i have seen to his stock engine. He piggybacks his stoch ECU and also modulated the torque convertor. What happens is the High Flow Intake system adjusts the air-fuel ratio to optimal settings in conjunction with the Intake system. I think stock intake system from pathfinder has deficiencies in supplying air needed by the engine.This system helps the engine breath much better and give the car quicker acceleration and much crisper throttle response in the entire RPM range. Performance gains: +9-12% HP and +9-12% torque.
The mods carried were on the manifold, exhausts , piggyback ecu, and torque convertor using The material choice was ductile Iron because of its superior properties in turbo manifold applications such as excellent crack resistance, high temperature .
Piggybacks often don't work well as they fight the stock ECU's self learning control. For this reason we had Jim Wolf Technology reprogram our OEM ECU.
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Morepower it is an exhaustive work but It did work with this one as the following were relooked prior to programming the piggyback ECU such as Custom charged pipe with Bypass Valve flanges, Mass flow Meter or MAF adaptor,
Vortech Maxflow Adjustable Bypass Valve (BV). What one needs to to do is install at Stage II kits which is available easily off the shelfs with larger intercoolers ensure to have atleast 10psi and larger injectors to this engine Dyno needs to recoiled with better amp rating.. The 10 psi intercooled kits will require slightly larger injectors. The stock fuel should able to supply enough fuel for the 10 psi. The larger injectors will be compensated by the OEM ECU. Stock injector are around 190cc/min. this will have to be upgraded to 295 cc/min. The piggy back ECU can compensate up to 50% reduction. The rule is ECU picks up faulty codes, ECU will generally output fault codes for speed sensor and exhaust sensor if they are not connected (however, the engines run fine without these sensors).The vast majority of engines have the wiring loom snipped at the firewall, and often as not where the AFM and igniter sub loom peels off towards the side/rear of the RH head as well. The main loom has around 80 wires in it; to run as a manual trans set up you need about 30 of these wires. Provided you have the right diagram it becomes a case of tracing each wire on the engine and then splicing it to the patch loom correctly to suit the ECU. You must ensure you use screened wire for the cam angle, RPM, exhaust and knock sensors. The good news is that the on-engine sensors are the same irrespective of the donor vehicle The bad news is that the plug locking catches get very brittle and tend to break off, so try not to remove plugs unless you have to, to check continuity etc.
He has used standard 30 amp accessory relays for EFI Main Relay, Injection Relay and Starter Solenoid Relay, plus a factory circuit open fuel pump control relay And has used 5 fuses, which are EFI and Injection at 20 amps each, plus 7.5 Amps for Charge, start relay trigger and Ignition trigger for the Injection Relay. By doing this the car power feeds can all come directly from the battery and all one need is some 5 amp rated 7-core trailer flex for ‘start’ and ‘run’ trigger signals from the ignition switch.
From what i have seen the pathy generally the V6 uses a sensor on the back of the trans as the primary speed signal, however, this signal is processed by the ABS system and then output to the ECU. Therefore, if you don’t have the ABS system this will not work.
I have to say this the mods carried were enormous, such as Idle speed controller, ECU , diagnostics, wirings , Alternator, Ignition Systems, Airflow meter, Trac control,sparkplugs, cam belts,exhaust manifold and systems. This collegeau of mine is a Aircraft Avionics specialist, and he keeps doing this mods on his chevy, Lastl but not the least To be honest, I would recommend ensuring any Sparky you intend using has either done the job before or has demonstrable suitable experience. Rule of thumb, tidy work is good, untidy is bad. Last thing you need is to take someone on who sounds too cheap to be true, that ends up experimenting with your vehicle to figure out how to do it, with the risk that it never quite runs right (if at all). To say nothing of what ends up being an open ended chequebook…
__________________ PATHFINDER2004 Bosch HIDs - Xenon , Nokia CAR-K 91H with CA-55 PopPort conversion, Dynamat Xtreme, Garmin iQue 3600 GPS Navigation w/ 1GB SD Memory Upgrade, Escort Passport 8500 X50, Audiovox Xpress XM tuner with Delphi FM Wired Modulator,Rear Parking Sensors, Thorley Headers & Flowmaster 50 series Exhaust.
Morepower it is an exhaustive work but It did work with this one as the following were relooked prior to programming the piggyback ECU such as Custom charged pipe with Bypass Valve flanges, Mass flow Meter or MAF adaptor,
Vortech Maxflow Adjustable Bypass Valve (BV). What one needs to to do is install at Stage II kits which is available easily off the shelfs with larger intercoolers ensure to have atleast 10psi and larger injectors to this engine Dyno needs to recoiled with better amp rating.. The 10 psi intercooled kits will require slightly larger injectors. The stock fuel should able to supply enough fuel for the 10 psi. The larger injectors will be compensated by the OEM ECU. Stock injector are around 190cc/min. this will have to be upgraded to 295 cc/min. The piggy back ECU can compensate up to 50% reduction. The rule is ECU picks up faulty codes, ECU will generally output fault codes for speed sensor and exhaust sensor if they are not connected (however, the engines run fine without these sensors).The vast majority of engines have the wiring loom snipped at the firewall, and often as not where the AFM and igniter sub loom peels off towards the side/rear of the RH head as well. The main loom has around 80 wires in it; to run as a manual trans set up you need about 30 of these wires. Provided you have the right diagram it becomes a case of tracing each wire on the engine and then splicing it to the patch loom correctly to suit the ECU. You must ensure you use screened wire for the cam angle, RPM, exhaust and knock sensors. The good news is that the on-engine sensors are the same irrespective of the donor vehicle The bad news is that the plug locking catches get very brittle and tend to break off, so try not to remove plugs unless you have to, to check continuity etc.
He has used standard 30 amp accessory relays for EFI Main Relay, Injection Relay and Starter Solenoid Relay, plus a factory circuit open fuel pump control relay And has used 5 fuses, which are EFI and Injection at 20 amps each, plus 7.5 Amps for Charge, start relay trigger and Ignition trigger for the Injection Relay. By doing this the car power feeds can all come directly from the battery and all one need is some 5 amp rated 7-core trailer flex for ‘start’ and ‘run’ trigger signals from the ignition switch.
From what i have seen the pathy generally the V6 uses a sensor on the back of the trans as the primary speed signal, however, this signal is processed by the ABS system and then output to the ECU. Therefore, if you don’t have the ABS system this will not work.
I have to say this the mods carried were enormous, such as Idle speed controller, ECU , diagnostics, wirings , Alternator, Ignition Systems, Airflow meter, Trac control,sparkplugs, cam belts,exhaust manifold and systems. This collegeau of mine is a Aircraft Avionics specialist, and he keeps doing this mods on his chevy, Lastl but not the least To be honest, I would recommend ensuring any Sparky you intend using has either done the job before or has demonstrable suitable experience. Rule of thumb, tidy work is good, untidy is bad. Last thing you need is to take someone on who sounds too cheap to be true, that ends up experimenting with your vehicle to figure out how to do it, with the risk that it never quite runs right (if at all). To say nothing of what ends up being an open ended chequebook…
I don't know if you are talking about a Chevy or Nissan but this won't work well with a Nissan, you need larger injectors to run 10 psi of boost, about 440cc/min. The stock ECU won't work with these as the self learning correction factor is only 25% and this is for closed loop only, not open loop. Also if you use a interceptor type piggyback, you not only fight the self learning loop but you also place the spark map in the wrong cells for the amount of air flow seen, not good for a FA engine. If you exceed 25% correction with these tweeker boxes ala Apexi AFC et al, you go into limp home mode.
If you do a sort of piggyback on a Nissan, it must completly bypass the stock spark and fuel tuning and provide its own maps based on sensor input otherwise you will have problems.
For GM products I am ignorant on what will work.
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MorePOwer2 - What if any real world torque/hp gains do you think one could get by adding the Massive q45(VH45dev8) Maf and possibly Throttle body to the VG30/33E engine? I know Cobra Mustang MAF swap is popular for Turbo Charged Applications and the q45 MAF is even more massive then the later.
I'm curious though if one would c a HP gain to justify the cost with a N/A trim Nissan engine with the above mentioned massive parts?
Also, while we're on the subject of SOHC VG engines? Do you know how much HP the stock Pathfinder intake plenum can flow for boosted applications before it needs to be extrude honed?
I'm pretty sure I'm gonna end up with an AEBS Stroker kit in a VQ35de(Vq43de) for my 240sx project as I want as much displacement as possibe without going to a heavier V8 engine like the VH45de. Imagine the utter lack of turbo lag with Twin Garret *Disco Potatoes* spooled by a 4.3L VQ V6! Hell, with that kind of displacement one could easily go to 30 or later trim turbos and still have those things online and fully screaming @ under 4500K rpm. Most everything but the engine and tranny are done so I need to make up my mind. The body is all JDM Sivia bades and body parts with a gorgeous custom metallic black paint job.....totally classy!
The RB Engines are awesome but I don't know why Nissan didn't make them with more displacement?
MorePOwer2 - What if any real world torque/hp gains do you think one could get by adding the Massive q45(VH45dev8) Maf and possibly Throttle body to the VG30/33E engine? I know Cobra Mustang MAF swap is popular for Turbo Charged Applications and the q45 MAF is even more massive then the later.
I'm curious though if one would c a HP gain to justify the cost with a N/A trim Nissan engine with the above mentioned massive parts?
Also, while we're on the subject of SOHC VG engines? Do you know how much HP the stock Pathfinder intake plenum can flow for boosted applications before it needs to be extrude honed?
I'm pretty sure I'm gonna end up with an AEBS Stroker kit in a VQ35de(Vq43de) for my 240sx project as I want as much displacement as possibe without going to a heavier V8 engine like the VH45de. Imagine the utter lack of turbo lag with Twin Garret *Disco Potatoes* spooled by a 4.3L VQ V6! Hell, with that kind of displacement one could easily go to 30 or later trim turbos and still have those things online and fully screaming @ under 4500K rpm. Most everything but the engine and tranny are done so I need to make up my mind. The body is all JDM Sivia bades and body parts with a gorgeous custom metallic black paint job.....totally classy!
The RB Engines are awesome but I don't know why Nissan didn't make them with more displacement?
In my testing and Nissan Motorsports testing the larger TB and MAF don't make for a huge gain in power, we just got a couple of hp from the big stuff. Same thing with an Extrude hone manfiold, not much gains.
You might want to wait until the VQ35HR comes out in a few more months, this engine is much stronger and is probably deisgned to take turbo boost.
Look for a secret view of this motor in NPM's september issue.
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I don't know if you are talking about a Chevy or Nissan but this won't work well with a Nissan, you need larger injectors to run 10 psi of boost, about 440cc/min. The stock ECU won't work with these as the self learning correction factor is only 25% and this is for closed loop only, not open loop. Also if you use a interceptor type piggyback, you not only fight the self learning loop but you also place the spark map in the wrong cells for the amount of air flow seen, not good for a FA engine. If you exceed 25% correction with these tweeker boxes ala Apexi AFC et al, you go into limp home mode.
If you do a sort of piggyback on a Nissan, it must completly bypass the stock spark and fuel tuning and provide its own maps based on sensor input otherwise you will have problems.
For GM products I am ignorant on what will work.
For the VG30i, a SC running up to 15 psi will work fine with the stock injectors and ECU. Been done by L&P Performance in Indiana, and the stock engine Lee did the work on took the boost just fine for quite some time. He went back to NA to fine-tune the SC mounting and intake positions, though. Just so you know.
Also, was there someone saying the VG30E wouldn't support more than 170 HP in stock form? *cough*BULLSHIT*cough*
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'88 Pathfinder: 6" of lift, 33x13.50 Swamper LTB's, Rancho 9000's, L&P Stage 3 steering system, K&N, Pacesetter headers and 2.5" exhaust, Lock-Right locker, 110A alty and electric fan swap, dual batteries, 700W+ worth of PIAAs, etc.
Inline engines are easier to work on but it's all relative. In my 1972 240Z the VG30E has enough room in the engine bay for anything you'd wanna put in their.
