Issue with Nissan Pathfinder 2008 - Nissan Forum

 
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post #1 of 4 Old Mar 22nd, 2017, 04:30 PM Thread Starter
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Issue with Nissan Pathfinder 2008

I have a 2008 Pathfinder V6 4wd. I was driving and the 4wd warning light and the Service Engine Soon light came on simultaneously. When I pulled away from a red light she said the engine seem to rev at much higher RPM before taking off and she said that the truck just didn't feel like it was driving normally (I was not in the truck, so I am going off of her explanation). I made it home and shut the truck off, now it will not start. When turning the ignition nothing happens, no starter click, nothing. Im at a loss...any suggestions as to where to start looking?

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post #2 of 4 Old Mar 22nd, 2017, 06:47 PM
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Start looking at a possible discharged battery or dirty/loose battery post cable connectors. Do the headlights or horn work OK? If the battery is discharged, it just may be very old and past it's life time or has some bad cells or is not being charged.

A properly working charging system puts out about 13.2 to 15.0 volts, but this is a general spec. and the factory service manual (FSM) should be referenced for the correct charging system voltage specifications for a particular vehicle. A battery should have a static charge of 12.2-12.6 volts. If a battery is not good, the charging system may not be able to charge properly. If a vehicle is not charging properly and the battery is good, first thing to do is to turn the ignition switch key to the "ON" position and make sure the charging system warning light is operating. If the bulb is burnt out, the charging system will not charge. If the bulb is OK but still does not illuminate, the circuit must be tested. If the warning lamp does illuminate, then the next thing to check is to make sure the circuit between the battery positive post, or fusible link, to the connection in back of the alternator is good. On Nissans, this will be a thick (approx. 10 gauge) white wire to the "BAT" post on the back of the alternator. It's not uncommon for this wire to get corroded and burn up, creating resistance in the circuit. So, before assuming an alternator is bad, make sure this circuit is good and battery voltage is getting to the alternator. It's also important to make sure the alternator belt is tight and not slipping and the battery connections are clean and tight. Also, it is NOT a good idea to disconnect a battery cable on a computer controlled vehicle while running to test the alternator. This is a good way to damage an ECU. When a charging system is not charging, or overcharging, a lot of "strange" things can occur. It's not uncommon to see a multiple of stored trouble codes in the ECU memory. So, whenever a car is setting a multiple of trouble codes, idling funny or stalling, or anything out of the "norm," test the charging system before you start pulling hairs!

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post #3 of 4 Old Mar 22nd, 2017, 11:39 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you.. will check this.
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post #4 of 4 Old Apr 19th, 2017, 04:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Suelou277 View Post
Thank you.. will check this.
FIRST OF ALL CHECK VEHICLE FOR CODES IF IT HAS ANY.IF IT HAS ANY U1000 CODES OR ANYTHING RELATED WITH TRANSMISSION CODES YOU MAY HAVE AN INTERMIX ISSUE WITH THE TRANS AND MAY HAVE TO REPLACE TRANS ASSY AND RADIATOR.WHEN THE TRANSMISSION HAS INTERMIX WHAT USUALLY HAPPENS IS THAT THE TCM GETS SHORTED OUT FROM COOLANT AND THE CAN COMMUNICATION GOES DOWN AND MAY PREVENT VEHICLE FROM STARTING. TO CHECK THIS REMOVE BOTH RADIATOR CAP AND RESERVOIR CAP AND INSPECT INSIDE AND AROUND THE CAP. IF YOU HAVE THE SLIGHTEST AMOUNT OF OIL IN THERE . YOUR TOAST. CHECK YOUR TRANSMISSION FLUID AND SEE IF ITS OVERFULL OR IF IT HAS COOLANT. IF ITS OVERFULL ITS MORE LIKELY TO BE COOLANT. WHAT YOU COULD ALSO DO IS TRY STARTING IT YOURSELF BY BRIDGING THE STARTER SOLENOID AND SEE IF STARTS. THESE PATHFINDERS ARE HIGHLY UNLIKELY TO HAVE ALTERNATOR AND OR STARTER ISSUES. THEY MAY GO OUT OUT BUT HIGHLY UNLIKELY
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