02 Pathfinder: Replaced Blower Motor Now Car Won't Idle
So in order to save myself some cash, I decided to replace the blower motor myself. I went to Autozone and grabbed a replacement blower motor. I got home and found out that it did not have the factory plug, so I called nissan to get the ID for the hot and neg wires. I was told straight blue was hot and blue with a white stripe was neg (yes I know I should have taken a meter to them, but the meter my meter was 45 minutes away and it is 20 degrees out).
I installed the motor, turned the car on and all was golden. Went through the various fan speeds and let everything run for a couple of minutes without issue. I then went out to restart the car about 30 minutes later and I can't get it to turn over unless I give it gas. After that I need to continually give it gas or it will stall out. It isn't able to idle, it's not getting the signal. In addition the blower motor/ fan is not working.
I have unplugged the new motor without any difference. I checked the fan/radio fuse and that seems fine. I am guessing that Nissan gave me the wrong ID on the wires and that I reversed the polarity causing damage somewhere. Does anyone have any thoughts?
Last edited by MelissaM; Jan 22nd, 2013 at 03:54 PM.
Blower motors usually use a paired set of 20A fuses in the fuse block, not one fuse, due to the amperage required to run the fan. Regardless, I would take a 12v test light and check all of the fuses and fusible links (at the battery).
So I went out this am to try and start checking fuses and relays ad the car fired right up-and continued to stay idling. I am wondering if the failure had to do with the car not coming up to temp in the frigid weather we were experiencing here. Perhaps something got clogged. etc. I have done a few test runs of starting the car, bringing it to temp, turning it off and restarting. So far so good.
I am going to attempt to reinstall the blower motor now. I am rather perplexed by this whole thing.
Cold, really cold air like we've been having (up here, -5F this morning, and it's warming up) does all sorts of stupid to the gas sometimes.
Throw a can of HEET in the gas tank and let it ride...see what happens. That's usually the first thing I do whenever it gets cold out and I get a decent hiccup in anything I own that runs on gas.
One little tiny crystal of ice stuck somewhere can play hell with your brains...especially if you've got a tank of crap gas mixed with a tad too much ethanol.
99% of the questions that are "STRANGE" have a dirt simple answer...usually answered by a dirt simple search.
Is it just me, or does the majority overlook the obvious?
Somebody ate a whole bag of dumbass for breakfast.
Why do people continue to run a vehicle when a warning light comes on or starts flashing? Isn't that a clue that something is wrong and you probably should NOT drive it?
Is this whole car driving thing really freekin' brain surgery?
Here's something new for the crowd/clowns...
"A little bit of Google goes a long way!"
Ever notice the one post wonders for info on turbo'ing a GA16 are never heard from again after they figure out the cost???
And if you can read this, you don't need glasses! :)
Bummer, I started and restarted the car a whole bunch-left it idling for 20+ minutes on 3 diff occasions, and all was well. I left to go to work and it died as soon as I decelerated to go around a turn. Stopped dead in traffic. I barely got it home. The tow truck is en route.
I wish I knew wether or not it was related to the blower motor install. I do far more complex wiring than that daily. I can't imagine I screwed up something so basic.
There were no codes whatsoever. He (mechanic) cleaned the MAF, thought he had it went for a drive and then when he got around 1,000 RPM it juts flat out died.
He performed the idle air volume relearn procedure on it yesterday drove it for a bit and let me pick it up. We still don't know if it is 100% or not yet. IT's slightly terrifying to think it could just die in the middle of a stop or intersection.
So my mechanic reprogrammed the idle air control valve and all was well for two days and then poof, back to no idling.
Does anyone know if the IACV goes if it just goes or will it work intermittently? This will be ok for a while and then go back to stalling out. It will idle really, really low below 1,000 RPMs, the mechanic says it get down to about 200 before it dies.
I have had a few folks tell me to try swapping out some relays, but wasn't even sure which relay would be responsible for it.
Any input would be greatly appreciated. We are both kind of stumped and don't want to drop $400 on a IACV if it is not in fact what is wrong.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.