So my 01 pathfinder about 2 weeks ago starting idling low then dieing when at idle. I drove it one more day then died in my work parking lot and would not start back up, I went into work and came out the next morning (I work night shift) and it started up and made it to the house (about a 5 minute drive). Decided to park it and take my wife's car to work not to chance getting it stuck at work. As I was pondering what could be causing it came up with possibly a clogged fuel filter. First day off work went got the fuel filter and changed it. Took it for a drive around the block and it continued to have the problem. Did some online research and found it was most likely the Idle air control valve (IAC). Started it the next morning and drove to autozone to confirm that was what it was, got the p0505 code so i knew that was what I needed. On the way home it didn't want to stay going so had to left brake and keep right on gas to keep from dieing. Well about 2 blocks from the house it died and wouldn't start back up. Waited a couple hours went back up and still wouldn't start so got a tow strap and towed to the house and parked on the street. Waited over night and still not starting. Have not had a chance to work on it yet was hoping it would start long enough to pull into the garage so I wouldn't have to work on it in the street. The lack of starting is worrying me that maybe something else has gone out in the process. I go back to work today and plan on starting on it my next days off, my plan is to pull and clean the MAF, IAC, and throttle body, will also replace the much needed spark plugs and two fan belts. Could driving the vehicle while have a faulty/dirty IAC "killed" any other parts that would keep the vehicle from starting? Or would a bad IAC keep the vehicle from starting?
So a update. I removed the air intake up to and including the throttle body. Cleaned the throttle body, Idle Air Control, and even cleaned the MAF (and yes I used the proper cleaning materials). I also replaced the spark plugs in the vehicle, properly gaped them then put it all back together. Still not starting??? When cranking, the engine turns over but acts like it is getting no fuel. When key is turned forward can hear the fuel pump spinning. Could it be a bad fuel filter? Has anyone ever bought a fuel filter and had a failure off of that? I am going to check at points to make sure I am getting fuel to the engine and will also be checking voltage in all control valves on the engine. Any other ideas before I spend $300 on a IAC. Just to say too the throttle body and IAC were extremely dirty when I pulled them off.
One more thing to add. I know I need to perform the Idle relearn procedure but without the ability to restart the vehicle I can not do this. I am stumped at this point because everything I have read no one has had the vehicle completely stop running because of the IAC.
Spray some starting fluid into the throttle body; if it starts up and runs for a few seconds, then you've got a fuel delivery problem; if it still doesn't start, then it's ignition.
An easy way to test the fuel pump and filter is to disconnect the fuel hose from the top of the fuel filter and insert a long length of spare hose into the top of the fuel filter with the other end draped over the fender going into a catch can placed on the ground. Now turn the ignition key to the run position but DO NOT START THE ENGINE. You should see fuel going into the can at a good rate for several seconds.
Tee-in a tempoarary fuel pressure gauge at the output side of the fuel filter. The reading at idle should be 34 psi.
just to add to other people's comments
Did you disconnect any wiring when you were doing all this cleaning job? there is a negative connection to the top of the engine near the intake... if this is loose, car wont start.. make sure the coil wiring connections are tight..
Well rogoman, I tried the starter fluid and still didn't start. I can hear the fuel pump start up from underneath when the key is turned to the run position so I guess fuel problem can be ruled out. Still am going to test the fuel filter and psi though. Supraholic, the pathfinder quit starting before I took everything off and cleaned it and I checked it out today when I took everything back apart so I I don't see that being it.
One thing I am wondering if anyone knows is will a bad IAC keep the engine from turning over? That is the only code it gave when I took it to autozone that day, or if that might have possibly made the crank position sensor or cam shaft position sensor stop the engine. I really don't want to take it to the dealership (one reason, there is not one within an hours drive of where I am) and not sure about local repair shops.
Quick little update.. Replaced the battery which was going bad, checked all the ignition coils, cam pos sensor, crank shaft position sensor, fuel system is working properly, and everything else in the ignition seems to be working. Going to now replace the IAC and have the ecm rebuilt by circuit board medics ( Nissan Pathfinder ECM / ECU Repair | Circuit Board Medics ). Just wondering if anyone has used their services and knows how good they are. They have a 1 year warranty. I called and talked to the technical services guy and he said the IAC can short the ecm.
Before I send it off I am going to replace the IAC and try it out, can't hurt considering I have to purchase it anyways.
Well quick update. Replaced the IAC valve, had the circuit board repaired and the thing still isn't starting. Frustrated at this point. Running out of options to what it could be. Checked all the ignition coils and they are putting out proper volatage, vehicle is getting fuel, damn thing just will not start. At this point I have put about 800bucks into her and am about ready to give up. Any help at this point would be great.
Go back to the basics: air, fuel, spark, compression and timing. Unless your air filter is clogged, the "air" part shouldn't be an issue. Spray carb cleaner into the engine and see if it fires. If it doesn't, make sure spark is getting to the plugs and verify the spark plugs are not fouled. If that's good, do a compression test on the engine.
Well just checked the camshaft position sensor, both crankshaft position sensors, and double checked fuel pressure which is running fine. Decided to double check the ignition coils so I pulled the front left (looking at it from the front) and had my wife crank the engine. No spark. Trying to figure out a good way to test these, if I pull everything off to get to them will they still spark? And I read in my haynes manual something about the compressor? What would cause this to go out?
Guess its time for a compression test, because so far I have checked air, fuel, and spark. There is no way to check for timing on this vehicle so I guess compression is all I have left. It took it only a couple days of low idle and dieing then died and wouldn't start back up. At this point I am considering two options, take it to a mechanic or sell it as is. I hate to do it cause I have already spent 800 bucks trying to get it fixed, just am lost at this point.
Well I was really close to giving up. Reading forums and justanswers type sites and come across someone who is having a same type problem I was. About halfway down it mentions a 10A fuse in the underhood fuse box. Well I checked that and sure enough it was burnt out, put a new fuse in and started right back up. Running better than ever. Now that a minor tune up has been done its really running nice. Will be nice to get back to driving my vehicle and let the wife have hers back.
You're looking for the ECCS fuse in the panel on the left under the hood, I ran into this problem working on a customer car not to long ago. Ended up having to pull the fuse panel and run a new lead from the fuse to the main harness due to a short deep in the harness. Don't feel bad, I worked on this for several hours before discovering the problem. Until this day we cant figure out how the lead that was in there was carrying a 30V current popping the fuse. According to the diagram there is nothing else on that wire.
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