Which of two hoses supplies trans. fluid to the radiator on 96
After reading many awesome threads on transmission fluid change on this forum, I finally feel like I can save some green and do it myself. Seems nothing serious, unplug hoses from the radiator, start the engine, wait until all the fluid gets out, stop the engine, attach hoses back and put new fluid in. I'm pretty new to pathfinder, only had it for 2 months, but I had some experience with other trucks, so is there anything that I'm missing before I start this project on this Saturday? And, which of those two hoses supplies and which removes fluid from the radiator so I could be ready with bucket? Thanks a lot, this forum rules!
first off... how you gonna catch the tranny fluid comin out if you're getting it out by running the engine? gonna have a friend ride a creeper under your car as you drive down the road? when you're cars in neutral it doesn't turn the tranny. try draining it from the drain plug and the hoses... course.. to get it all out you need to remove the tranny and get it all out by moving the tranny around to get it out... then it'd be good to flush it so you're sure the gunk is out. but you don't have the compressor system that a shop has to do it... w/o taking the tranny out.
second... you wanna know which hoses go to the tranny? jack up car... lie down... scoot under car... do some research for your development.
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dblclutchn lik a mofo, save me that clutch
damn government and their incredibly expensive tickets, hows a good natured racer supposed to stay legit?
gd... if i could only make it past the lower class, i'd be rich. damn facists.
first off... how you gonna catch the tranny fluid comin out if you're getting it out by running the engine? gonna have a friend ride a creeper under your car as you drive down the road? when you're cars in neutral it doesn't turn the tranny. try draining it from the drain plug and the hoses... course.. to get it all out you need to remove the tranny and get it all out by moving the tranny around to get it out... then it'd be good to flush it so you're sure the gunk is out. but you don't have the compressor system that a shop has to do it... w/o taking the tranny out.
second... you wanna know which hoses go to the tranny? jack up car... lie down... scoot under car... do some research for your development.
thanks for the response bro... as I understand there is a trans. fluid pump that runs constantly when the car is started, so you don't have to actually drive anywhere. just gotta catch the fluid from one of the hoses in the front at the radiator hose (not at the transmission itself)... please correct me!
there should be no damage to transmission (it will stay in park), just gotta stop the engine when it starts spitting the air from the hose. one of the posts actually explained this procedure...
no need for any external pump, there is one in the transmission that will pump out all the fluid. I'm not saying I want to completely replace the fluid, just refresh it.
about the hoses, I underline that I mean those two going in and out of the radiator in the front of the vehicle..
lol, i should stick to basic knowledge unless i know the car.
don't know much about automatic tranny's.... they're a lot more to them than manuals.
as for there being a tranny fluid pump... sounds bout right, but don't know.
thing you want to be careful.... and i'm guessin but a good one... is that when it runs out of fluid, there might still be some in there.. and doin that won't really flush the system, but it will get more than 90% of the fluid out... hopefully.
the thing you need to look into being is has that fluid pump... it probably act just like a water pump and you'll have to make sure you get the air out of the system... any opening... like the fill area... as long as it is above the pump it should get the air out, but only after it's ran for a bit.
another thing, you need to make triple sure you don't over fill the tranny, cuz the pressure will destroy it.
as for the tubes.... it's most likely a hose running to the radiator, and a hose running back. all it does is cool the fluid, just like the engine coolant. so there should only be an in and an out. but just incase there is one that goes out of the radiator and right back in... you should call the dealer and ask to speak to a tech advisor and ask him if he can get a TECH to tell you about the hoses.
good luck.
__________________
dblclutchn lik a mofo, save me that clutch
damn government and their incredibly expensive tickets, hows a good natured racer supposed to stay legit?
gd... if i could only make it past the lower class, i'd be rich. damn facists.
Personally, I wouldn't recommend running the trans until the cooler starts spitting out air....The way a trans fluid exchanger (aka "flush machine") works is it uses a tank with a bladder. The machine is filled with about a case of ATF and hoses from the machine connect between one of the cooler hoses and the radiator nipple. As the vehicle runs, it pushes fluid into the tank and against the bladder, forcing new fluid into the coller nipple of the radiator, thus the system never runs low or "air bounds." If your trans isn't excessively dirty, I would just recommend a drain and fill using Nissan Type "D" ATF.
Personally, I wouldn't recommend running the trans until the cooler starts spitting out air....The way a trans fluid exchanger (aka "flush machine") works is it uses a tank with a bladder. The machine is filled with about a case of ATF and hoses from the machine connect between one of the cooler hoses and the radiator nipple. As the vehicle runs, it pushes fluid into the tank and against the bladder, forcing new fluid into the coller nipple of the radiator, thus the system never runs low or "air bounds." If your trans isn't excessively dirty, I would just recommend a drain and fill using Nissan Type "D" ATF.
thank you for your input, I'll definitely think about that...
there is another thing, I read on these forums several times that I shouldn't use a stock AT fluid radiator because it gets clogged up or something... would that be safe to just bypass it shorting the hoses going to it? I don't pull any trailers at all but do some off-roading and take long trips (~150 miles) sometimes... thank you
thank you for your input, I'll definitely think about that...
there is another thing, I read on these forums several times that I shouldn't use a stock AT fluid radiator because it gets clogged up or something... would that be safe to just bypass it shorting the hoses going to it? I don't pull any trailers at all but do some off-roading and take long trips (~150 miles) sometimes... thank you
That's only on 87-95's.
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Some AT coolers used by Nissan were finned and some were just a tube. If a significant amount of debris, such as clutch lining, were to pass through the finned-type coolers, they could become restricted or even clogged. This, obviously, could be an indication that the trans is on its way out, but restricting the cooler will only help accelerate the problem. The cooler can be cleaned out using a product such as Kooler Kleaner that comes in a spray can with a hose and can backflush the cooler inside the radiator in most cases. The factory AT cooler should never be bypassed, as the coolant which cools the AT fluid, also helps the fluid heat up to normal operating temperature quicker. If you want to upgrade the factory cooler, than an after market cooler can be added to the system, but still should not bypass the factory cooler.
As far as Nissan Type "D" ATF, for those who want to know, it is the original formula Dexron ATF, prior to its reformulations: Dexron/Mercon II, III, IV. While the later Dexron formulas are compatable with the Type "D," Nissan recommends using the Type "D" as it, according to them, prevents the valves in the valve body from sticking better than the later Dexron formulas. Nissan has the original Dexron formula, their Type "D," specifically made for their Nissan/Infiniti transmissions. Nissan has several other type ATF's for specific applications (Type "J", Type "K"), such as the 350Z AT and the Murano's CVT trans.
thank you all, I decided not to mess with the hoses and just drained ATF from the drain plug.
I've been riding my Pathy with a pint of Seafoam Transmission Cleaner added to it for about a week just to work all the gunk out if there is any. I personally like Seafoam products a lot since I had motorcycle with problematic carburetor, and seafoam carb/injector cleaner helped a lot cleaning it out without disassembling.
So I drained whatever I could drain (about 5 quarts) through the drain plug on the bottom of AT pan. Dudes, the color was almost black, which scared me a lot! What if it has never been replaced before? I put Castrol Dextron III/Mercon ATF ($3.19/quart) in it first, drove around the town for about an hour and drained ATF again, it was a bit cleaner but still dark. So I finally filled it up with recommended Nissan "D" stuff (freaking expensive $7/quart). I payed 17 for the Castrol and 35 for Nissan ATF = 52 bucks. The transmission shop would do a flush for 100 bucks, but I don't know what that means. I just like to do it myself.
dude, a shop tranny flush is sssooooo worth the money.. you don't have a system that continously pumpes tranny fluid through there as well as any cleaners depending on the shop... it's way worth it man. a flush on anything to make it nice again isn't easy wi/o the right flush equip.. a water hose just doesn't do it... not to mention you can only use that on a radiator... water in tranny is about as bas as water in oil or fuel.
__________________
dblclutchn lik a mofo, save me that clutch
damn government and their incredibly expensive tickets, hows a good natured racer supposed to stay legit?
gd... if i could only make it past the lower class, i'd be rich. damn facists.
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