I have a 2002 Chilkool edition and now is around 100K. I find it has a lot more body-roll than my 2001 Sentra GXE. It also has high compliant suspension than the Sentra as well. I am more nervous when driving the Pathfinder than the Sentra in the highway.
I wondering is there any simple mod that can improve the handling of the Pathfinder.
You are comparing apples and oranges here. The pathfinder is an SUV designed for off-road use and the Sentra is a 4-cyl economy commuter vehicle. The sentra is built low to the ground and would utilize a different setup of struts/springs. The pathfinder has a high center of gravity and will definitely experience more body roll. At 100k it may have worn struts/shocks depending on the setup and quality of stock parts. Shocks you can test by pushing down on a corner of the vehicle, if it springs back up and stays then the shocks/struts should still be good. If the vehicle rocks for a while after then it may be time to replace them. With the pathfinder as with anything else there may be shorter springs with higher spring rates that you could use but then you will lose suspension travel. The only way to improve the handling in the sense you are speaking of is to lower the vehicle closer to the ground or replace worn suspension parts. A larger diameter rim and lower profile tire will also improve handling at the expense of ride quality (less rubber = harsher ride, but less bounce/rock). The only other way to tell if you are experiencing too much body roll would be to drive other pathfinders/SUVs to compare.
The Pathfinder also weighs about 1000 pounds more than a Sentra. Give or take.
Get some stiff new shocks, that may help with the roll control. Also check your front and rear sway bars/stabilizer bars for looseness or missing parts like end links. Check your tire pressure. Air them up to near the max if they're low and see if handling improves.
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'88 Pathfinder: 6" of lift, 33x13.50 Swamper LTB's, Rancho 9000's, L&P Stage 3 steering system, K&N, Pacesetter headers and 2.5" exhaust, Lock-Right locker, 110A alty and electric fan swap, dual batteries, 700W+ worth of PIAAs, etc.
A common problem area on R50 Pathfinders is the rear suspension upper and lower links. When the bushings go bad, they tend to make the Pathfinder "wobble" down the road. It's not always easy to see; the best way is to lift the vehicle off the ground and let the suspension hang and inspect for cracks in the bushings, especially at the right side upper. If they're bad, don't bother with the bushings...get the whole suspension link.
As stated, struts and shocks are another area to look at. It was not uncommon to see the front struts leaking on this model.
Thanks for all the replies. With all the replies, it seems that my suspension indeed has some problem. The front end stabilizer links have been changed at 93K Km and the mileage now is now 109K Km so it may be time to change the rear links.
Smj999smi, is the stablilizer the same as the upper and lower link that you mentioned? Is the brand important for the links? I used Energy Suspenion's polyurethane bushing for the Sentra with great result. Is there anything like that with the Pathfinder?
Thanks.
Last edited by Paul L : Sep 10th, 2007 at 01:18 AM.
The stabilizer bar has nothing to do with the upper and lower rear suspension links. The rear links are the componants that hold the rear axle housing in place; the lowers may be called "radius rods" by some. I recommend sticking with the genuine Nissan link assys., if that's the problem.
The stabilizer bar has nothing to do with the upper and lower rear suspension links. The rear links are the componants that hold the rear axle housing in place; the lowers may be called "radius rods" by some. I recommend sticking with the genuine Nissan link assys., if that's the problem.
Smj99smj, sorry I missed an important word. I meant stabilizer link, not the actually stabilizer bar itself. I did more search but became more confuse. My car knowledge is pretty primitive and got confuse with different names that may mean the same thing. Is the rear links that you referred the same as control arm that some site advertised? If so, they are pretty expensive to replace all 4 of them.
Do you have some link that I can see the picture? Also, if I am not planning to do it myself, will it be a lot more economical to change the bushing only? Mechanics shop should have tools to change bushing, right?
I had many of the questions you have and was also confused by all the things that have the word "link" in them but if you go here: Nissan Parts 2002 Pathfinder 3.5 4WD
and scroll to "suspension" and click on "Link Bushing" you'll get to the page. But that's where the real confusion starts because there's left or right upper and left or right lower and without crawling under and seeing what's being replaced (which I should have done) it's hard to visualize. I had to send some back when my mechanic told me they were the wrong ones. I don't know a lot about cars and my mechanic knows nothing about the internet so it was bound to happen.
Having said that, I agree with smj999smj that if you're not doing the work yourself, it probably makes more sense to get the whole suspension link. It will cost more for the part but less for the install. My mechanic likes these kinds of challenges but he says the bolts on the old bushings need to be heated to get them off and the new bushings have to be pressed on so it all adds up to lots of labor $$.
The aftermarket calls them rear control arms or panhard rods. My experience with replacing the bushings is that they are a real pain and usually have to be torched out, which compromises the integrity of the metal. Most shops don't have the collars required to press them out. In the end, it's better and more practical to replace the entire link assy.
I never said to replace all four; replace those that are bad. Usually the right side, upper is the first to go. I have seen cases where all four are bad, but that's not a common occurance.
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