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A couple tips: I always use a bit of white out to mark those faint bumps on the rear cover and on the cam gears as well as the ones down at the crank. Then using a strait edge of sorts make sure all my marks line up because by looking at it from an angle it may appear in line but actualy off one tooth. also I like to snug the tensioner and then give the engine two complete cycle rotations(4 revolutions of the crank) and then reset the tension on the tensioner. This helps set the initial stretch so you don't get any belt noise issues or worse have a loose belt.
However I have noticed on many of the V6 engines the cam marks do seem to be off just a slight bit something in the neighborhood of a 1/16 or less of an inch.
I can give you an even better tip if you have not removed the old belt yet! use some white out to mark the belt where the cam and crank marks are. Then count the belt notches between each sprocket to see if that matches the same number of teeth between the marks on the new belt.
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It's much easier to travel through a maze when you have a map!
Spat
Former Nissan Tech
14yrs ASE all but AT it's a bitXX!
New career - HandyMan/Electrician - Freedom at last!!
86.5 Nissan HB D21 234K Miles
94 Nissan Altima GXE ? Miles
97 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.8L 132K Miles
64 Chrysler 300-K 2-door Convertible 63K Miles
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