'94 Nissan Pathfinder 3.0, Auto 4WD-Copy of Electrical Schematic Any1??

BeQuick2Click · Jun 11th, 2007, 04:53 PM

Well, Good afternoon, this is my first post, as I just joined today, but hopefully SOMEONE hears me here!

My Pathfinder 3.0, 6 cyl 4 wheel is having fun behaving badly. Hmm..What is the deal? Are ALL 1994's like this? I prefer the Chevy's for trucks and the late Jeep Cherokee Laredo for SUV's, but this is what I am stuck with till its paid off, (NEVER get desperate when looking for a truck (or car)-EVER) LOL, but what is done, is done and I need to make this work, do or die.

Alot of the electrical does not function. The Cruise Control, Electrical Shocks, Fast wipers setting, The Windshield-wiper pump, (you oughta see me handle myself when it snows!) and the panel of the driver door needs to come off if I want to hook up the speakers in the back-I am not even gonna ASK for help there! Can you say Electrical Nightmare?-even the dang tachometer. (Is NOTHING sacred here?)

I sort of have lights, whenever she feels like giving me some. I mean, here is the deal. I HAD lights for about 1 1/2 months AFTER I bought it last October 06. Then the passenger side low beam went out. So then I drove on High Beams till I could get to the parts store. No problem, right? WRONG. Replaced it and lo and behold, it was popping fuses left and right. I am thinking, ok. Common Sense here. "SHORT". ..and don't say with the driver..LOL

Ok, I consider myself to be very mechanically inclined-being a truck girl from the get-go, and anything electrical never bothered me. Well, not much did. This has me stumped and I was wondering if ANYONE has a 1994 Nissan Pathfinder 3.0, 4 wheel, automatic trans, complete Electrical Schematic? I cannot find it anywhere and I don't get paid for 2 more weeks, so where I CAN find it, charges me of course and rightly so. But, I am not particularly interested in any1 telling me I have to wait the 2 weeks (I have no patience for time-can ya tell?)-so can ya save a girl from waiting? Really, ANYTHING you can send would be a blessing. (If you have a Chilton's or maybe a Dealer's Mechanic book would be soooo great, if you would be as so kind to let me take a peek).

I would so appreciate it, if you could help me here. I have been reading the past posts, and I really like the advice given here and on PartsMike!

You may reply to BeQuick2Click@msn.com ASAP, and I hope I could help someone else here sometime! '74-'78 Chevy 350 4X4, is my specialty and love them!

Respectfully,
BeQuick2Click
BeQuick2Click@msn.com

golfer · Jun 11th, 2007, 06:40 PM

There's a "Sticky " where to get free complete service mauals... electrical schematics included.

BeQuick2Click · Jun 11th, 2007, 09:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by golfer

There's a "Sticky " where to get free complete service mauals... electrical schematics included.

Thank you for replying! I admit that I do not know where I can find this. I am embarrassed to say that, but alas, there it is! I googled what you said in different forms with different key words, and it did not provide me the results I need..I have looked in forums all over the place for 5 hrs now..Do you by chance have a direct link to what you are speaking about? I'll get right on it tomorrow after work. Thank you!

Respectfully,
BeQuick2Click

golfer · Jun 12th, 2007, 07:14 AM

When you open the nissanforum truck & suv page look down at the " threads in forum " section the very first item " Sticky ". Open that up and you will see a link called PhatG20.

BeQuick2Click · Jun 12th, 2007, 10:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by golfer

When you open the nissanforum truck & suv page look down at the " threads in forum " section the very first item " Sticky ". Open that up and you will see a link called PhatG20.

Thanks for paying attention and knowing where to look and wanting to help me! I did just now DL everything and will study it all the electrical wiring diagrams tonight. I love the pdf format too. Good thing I have WinRAR, or I would not have been able to open it. Awesome! Oh, and maybe, JUST maybe I can love this truck finally-at least the pressure is off me at the moment. Let you know what happened if you are interested. Muah! Oh, did I mention that you were the shizznike??

Life is SOOOO good!
Respectfully,
BeQuick2Click

golfer · Jun 12th, 2007, 10:35 AM

You're welcome ... if you have any questions use the search function and if that doesn't help post your questions .... myself or others will surely try to help.

Good luck.

**88pathoffroad** · Jun 13th, 2007, 10:06 AM

The headlight problems usually stem from a craptastic headlight switch. The contacts tend to corrode or accumulate dirt, then stop working one headlight at a time.

For the adjustable shocks, the switch usually quits after a while, but the shocks could also just simply be bagged. Most people just plain replace them with new non-adjustable ones and tape up the old electrical connectors.

BeQuick2Click · Jun 13th, 2007, 12:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 88pathoffroad

The headlight problems usually stem from a craptastic headlight switch. The contacts tend to corrode or accumulate dirt, then stop working one headlight at a time.

For the adjustable shocks, the switch usually quits after a while, but the shocks could also just simply be bagged. Most people just plain replace them with new non-adjustable ones and tape up the old electrical connectors.

..is that like code for up s*** creek? LOL It may be literal in what you describe, so I better watch it! LOL Anyhow, you may be right. I noticed the battery is corroded and hits up against the headlight casing and the firewall. I did bungee-cord it so it would not move. My next move is to get a new battery (it says it is over 3 years old), and get another bulb for the passenger side-not a lot of good it will do however, till I track down the electrical short with a tester. It was popping fuses right and left, so that was one main problem I was having. At least I now have BOTH low and high working on the drivers side. DON'T ask me what I did. I am not even sure myself! Think I replaced the fuse, I don't know-I was just replacing all the busted fuses. Both the pass low and highs are not working still though. I will check the contact ends obviously when I go through it on Sunday.

I saw somewhere that someone had hooked up the same wires for the passenger side low and high headbeams, directly to the driver side, where it was working (low and high beams), but that got me thinking. I know that is a quick fix, but common sense tells me that, would not he be blowing his fuses, from the driver side because the driver side lows and highs are on their own dedicated fuse seperately, at 15 AMPS each, and having to operate 4 total lights, (60AMPS), would be too much? I am thinking it could not take the wattage total. It would be great if you could tell me I am wrong. Seriously, I am just learning about the Pathy, and everything on a post-computer years for trucks and cars nowadays, just leaves me shaking my head half the dang time. Hoping common sense would prevail.

Even if I did just hook up the low to low only, that would still be 45 AMPS total for that drivers side circuit and not sure it would work effectively. Still 15AMPS over. Do you know what I mean? (What am I saying-of COURSE you do! LOL) Could that start a fire? (Ok that was a chick concern here-have 2 kids to worry about, hope you can see past it!). CS again tells me fuse would blow before a fire, but had to ask.

I never did read anything more on what or IF that guy got away with running his lights that way for anytime, much less an extended period of time. Without a tester, is there any other suggestions you could provide me, so I could at least have one set of lamps and avoid getting popped by the PD?

Thanks Golfer and 88PathOffRoad, you guys are great to help a lady out!

BeQuick2Click
PS, on the shock thing-yep, that was what I was thinking I should do!

BeQuick2Click · Jun 17th, 2007, 07:00 PM

Happy Father's Day All!

BeQuick2Click

**88pathoffroad** · Jun 22nd, 2007, 09:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BeQuick2Click

I saw somewhere that someone had hooked up the same wires for the passenger side low and high headbeams, directly to the driver side, where it was working (low and high beams), but that got me thinking. I know that is a quick fix, but common sense tells me that, would not he be blowing his fuses, from the driver side because the driver side lows and highs are on their own dedicated fuse seperately, at 15 AMPS each, and having to operate 4 total lights, (60AMPS), would be too much? I am thinking it could not take the wattage total. It would be great if you could tell me I am wrong. Seriously, I am just learning about the Pathy, and everything on a post-computer years for trucks and cars nowadays, just leaves me shaking my head half the dang time. Hoping common sense would prevail.

Even if I did just hook up the low to low only, that would still be 45 AMPS total for that drivers side circuit and not sure it would work effectively. Still 15AMPS over. Do you know what I mean? (What am I saying-of COURSE you do! LOL) Could that start a fire? (Ok that was a chick concern here-have 2 kids to worry about, hope you can see past it!). CS again tells me fuse would blow before a fire, but had to ask.

Fuse amperage ratings are not full-time load ratings, they are MAXIMUM load ratings.

AMPS = Watts / Voltage
I = P ÷ E

A 55W bulb draws a max load of 3.9 amps or so at 14 volts and 4.4 amps each at 12.5 volts. Your alternator will put out 14 volts when it is charging. The higher the operating voltage, the lower the amperage draw. So, two 55W lights will theoretically draw approximately 8.8 watts at most. The fuse is there in case the bulb shorts out and draws way too much current.