Whenever I hit the brakes, the steering vibrates a little bit. My brother and father, who knows quite a bit about cars, have said that the rotor (disc brake) needs resurfacing/replacement.
Now, my dad is in favor of DYI, but my brother thinks it's best to take to our mechanic. He says that after working on his Isuzu Rodeo's brake, he somehow screwed something up and the ABS light is on now.
How hard is it to do a brake job on a 2002 Pathfinder? Is there really a danger in damaging something? I am fairly confident in their ability (my brother completely took apart and rebuilt my old 96 Accord back in HS and is currently an FAA-certified aircraft mechanic, though the latter is not related to cars, I realize it)
Don't do it yourself. I have a 2003 Nissan Pathfinder LE and had the same exact problem of wobbling whenever I put on the brakes. I found out that one will have to pull each wheel bearing off and repack them when done in order to change the rotors (or even resurface them). It's much too labor intensive unless you have a bearing puller.
Take it to a mechanic. It shouldn't matter where you take it as long as they guartunee the work that they do.
It cost me $200 here locally by my trusted mechanic to re-surface the rotors and replace the brake pads. They suggested replacing the pads too just in case the old pads if left on will mess up the newly resurfaced rotor (or new rotor). The shop will be able to determine if your existing rotors can be resurfaced or if they need to be replaced entirely.
I agree that you'll need to remove the entire hub to get to the rotor and it makes sense to repack while you're in there.
But the bearings are easily accessible without any type of puller. The front bearing falls out and the rear is held in with an inner bearing seal that is easy to remove. You might consider a bearing locknut socket to seat the bearings with the proper torque, but many do without that just fine.
__________________
1997 Pathfinder XE
Air Lift Air Bags, Warn Hubs
I agree that you'll need to remove the entire hub to get to the rotor and it makes sense to repack while you're in there.
But the bearings are easily accessible without any type of puller. The front bearing falls out and the rear is held in with an inner bearing seal that is easy to remove. You might consider a bearing locknut socket to seat the bearings with the proper torque, but many do without that just fine.
^^ I have done this myself. Had to get a locknut socket that fit a honda passport or isuzu rodeo.. Also bought a spring scale (from Target - fish scale) for bearing preload adjustment. then, it was just following instructions in factory manual.
Or you can take the truck to a place they have the machine to resurface rotor without taking off the car! dealership got them.
doesn't really sound like too much work. my mechanic resurfaced my rotors a few years ago for $10 each (i brought them in and handed them too him), so if you like being handy and saving money then go for it.
Whenever I hit the brakes, the steering vibrates a little bit. My brother and father, who knows quite a bit about cars, have said that the rotor (disc brake) needs resurfacing/replacement.
Now, my dad is in favor of DYI, but my brother thinks it's best to take to our mechanic. He says that after working on his Isuzu Rodeo's brake, he somehow screwed something up and the ABS light is on now.
How hard is it to do a brake job on a 2002 Pathfinder? Is there really a danger in damaging something? I am fairly confident in their ability (my brother completely took apart and rebuilt my old 96 Accord back in HS and is currently an FAA-certified aircraft mechanic, though the latter is not related to cars, I realize it)
Anyways, all input is appreciated!
Have you checked the condition of the brakes? It may not be a problem with the brakes. Sounds like a problem in the suspension. I had a similure symptom in my X5 and it was a problem with the lower control arms.
Usually, if your rotors are warped, you feel a pulsation/vibration in the brake peddle, not the steering wheel.
Maybe worth pulling off one of your front wheels and spin the rotor and see if it's hitting the pads evenly.
I still think it is the brakes... Here is an official Nissan service bulletin on this issue:
Brakes - Front Brake Vibration/Pulsation/Judder
Classification:
BR03-002
Reference:
NTB03-091
Date:
October 8, 2003
2001-2003 PATHFINDER; BRAKE JUDDER FROM FRONT BRAKES
APPLIED VEHICLE:
2001 - 2003 Pathfinder (R50)
IF YOU CONFIRM:
While braking, a steering wheel shake, body vibration, or brake pedal pulsation (also known as "brake judder"), especially during high speed braking.
ACTIONS:
^ Check front wheel bearing axial end play.
^ "Turn" the front brake rotors using an On-Car Brake Lathe.
^ Install the new front brake pads and hardware kit (see Parts Information).
^ Burnish the brake pads.
NOTE: Brake judder repair, as outlined in this bulletin, is covered by the 3 year, 36,000 mile warranty for Applied Vehicles.
PARTS INFORMATION
IMPORTANT: The purpose of "ACTIONS" (above) is to give you a quick idea of the work you will be performing. You MUST closely follow the entire Service Procedure as it contains information that is essential to successfully completing this repair.
CLAIMS INFORMATION
Submit a Primary Failed Part (PP) line using the claims coding table.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
Check front wheel axial play
1. Remove both front brake caliper assemblies.
Refer the Electronic Service Manual (ESM), section BR for brake caliper assembly removal.
2. Check axial end play.
^ Specification: 0 mm (0 in.)
^ Refer to the Service Manual (ESM), section AX, for axial end play inspection and adjustment.
3. Inspect the rotors to confirm they are serviceable (they can be reused/resurfacing is possible).
^ Refer to the ESM, section BR, for rotor inspection
^ Minimum Thickness: 26.0 mm (1.024 in.)
IMPORTANT: If new rotors are required, "index" them to the hub (see "Rotor Indexing").
Turn the front rotors
4. Resurface both front rotors using an On-Car Brake Lathe.
IMPORTANT NOTES: ^ An on-car brake lathe (such as the ProCut(TM) PFM9.0 or equivalent) is a required essential tool and must be used to perform warranty brake rotor surfacing.
^ The ProCut(TM) PFM9.0 can be ordered from TECH-MATE at 1-800-662-2001.
^ The on-car brake lathe is more effective in reducing brake rotor run out than the conventional off-car lathe method.
^ When using the on-car brake lathe, prevent metal shavings from contacting or collecting on the ABS speed sensors.
^ Remove any shavings that stick to the ABS speed sensor's magnet. It is best to clean the ABS sensor with the rotor removed.
^ If the rotor must be removed for any reason, mark the exact location (rotor to axle hub) before removing the rotor (see Figure 6). This will make sure you reinstall the rotor back to the same location.
^ Do not tighten the wheel lug nuts with an air impact driver. Tighten the wheel lug nuts to the proper torque specification. Uneven or high torque applied to the lugs may distort the brake rotor and hub. This may result in increased rotor runout and excessive rotor thickness variation as the rotor wears.
5. After the rotors have been resurfaced:
^ Recheck the rotor thickness. Specification: 26.0 mm (1.024 in.) minimum thickness.
^ Check the rotor runout. Specification: 0.03 mm (0.001 in) maximum runout.
NOTE: Runout specification is new, and is slightly less than what is shown in the ESM.
6. Reinstall the brake caliper assemblies.
^ Refer to the ESM for brake caliper installation instructions.
Install new front pads and hardware kit
7. Replace the brake pads and hardware with the new ones listed in the Parts Information (see Figures 4 and 5).
^ Refer to the ESM for brake pad and hardware kit replacement instructions.
^ Use PBC grease between the brake pad, shim, and caliper piston to reduce potential noise. Do Not get grease on the brake pad surface.
^ (Brake pads and hardware shown for one side. Kit includes parts for both sides)
^ Install only one "V-spring" on each side as shown in Figure 5.
8. Reinstall the wheels and lug nuts. Tighten lug nuts to 87 - 108 ft-lb with a Torque Wrench.
^ Do Not tighten the wheel lug nuts with an air impact wrench.
^ Uneven or high torque applied to the lugs may "distort" the brake rotor and hub. This may result in increased rotor runout and excessive rotor thickness variation as the rotor wears.
Burnish the brake pads
9. Burnish the brake pads as follow:
A. Drive the vehicle on a straight smooth road at about 30 mph (50 kph).
B. Use medium brake pedal/foot effort to bring the vehicle to a complete stop from about 30 mph (50 kph). Adjust pedal/foot pressure so that the vehicle stopping time is 3-5 seconds.
C. Cool the brake system by driving at about 30 mph (50 kph) for approximately one minute without stopping.
D. Repeat steps A, B and C 3 to 5 times to complete the burnishing process.
Rotor Indexing
When installing a new rotor, use the following indexing procedure to ensure the minimum amount of rotor runout is achieved.
1. Ensure the rotor is fully contacting the hub. Clean the rotor to hub surface if it is rusty.
NOTE: For cleaning the hub surface, specifically around the wheel studs, it is recommended to use the Wheel Hub Cleaning Kit # J-42450-A, which can be ordered from TECH-MATE at 1-800-662-2001.
2. Install the rotor and all lug nuts. Tighten the lug nuts to 40 ft-lbs.
3. Place a reference mark on the rotor and hub (see Figure 6).
4. Measure rotor runout with a dial indicator (see Figure 7).
^ If the runout is above 0.03 mm (0.001), continue with step 5.
NOTE: Runout specification is new, and is slightly less than what is shown in the ESM.
5. Remove the lug nuts and shift the position of the rotor one lug then reinstall the lug nuts and torque to 40 ft-lbs.
^ Repeat step 4 until the rotor is positioned with the least amount of runout.
6. After finding the position with the least amount of runout, if the runout is still more than 0.03 mm (0.001 in), the new rotors must be turned (resurfaced). See step 4 in the Service Procedure.
Linear Mode
