I'm new to this forum and have a few questions before I purchase my first Pathfinder.
It's a 2003 LE loaded with 75k miles. It's at a dealer and it's been through their safety check. I've driven it and it feels solid and drives well on the highway. Good acceleration and no shakes. Brakes feel good. It looks like it has new front brakes. I will have them run a car fax but it looks like all the body panels are original and it's a one owner off lease.
What do I need to know before I make an offer on this?
The 3.5 doesnt have a belt. It has a chain which is a good thing.
I just bought an '03 LE fully loaded with the rear DVD player as well for $14,400. It had 63k on it. Same deal as you... one owner trade in. Mine had recent new rubber, all 4 wheels brakes done oil change etc... Extra clean truck. Chrome Silver with black/charcoal leather.
Basically look at the suspension for cracked CV boots, leaking struts/shocks. Check the tires as well. The LE has 17" wheels & new rubber can get expensive.
One think I found after I bought mine was the fact that the front tubes/cats in the exhaust were leaking. There is a bulliten on this. Basically run your hand by the eams of the cats (dont actually touch them they're hot!) and see if you can feel exhaust coming out. You might be able to hear it as well. Not a major deal breaker but it can give you some barganing strength.
The 3.5 doesnt have a belt. It has a chain which is a good thing.
I just bought an '03 LE fully loaded with the rear DVD player as well for $14,400. It had 63k on it. Same deal as you... one owner trade in. Mine had recent new rubber, all 4 wheels brakes done oil change etc... Extra clean truck. Chrome Silver with black/charcoal leather.
Basically look at the suspension for cracked CV boots, leaking struts/shocks. Check the tires as well. The LE has 17" wheels & new rubber can get expensive.
One think I found after I bought mine was the fact that the front tubes/cats in the exhaust were leaking. There is a bulliten on this. Basically run your hand by the eams of the cats (dont actually touch them they're hot!) and see if you can feel exhaust coming out. You might be able to hear it as well. Not a major deal breaker but it can give you some barganing strength.
First, look in the glove box and see if the warranty card is there, and see if the old owner's name/address is on it - sometimes you can find out, and call the person, and they may tell you more about the car.
Second, at 75k miles, I'd have the dealer do some preventive work on it before I accepted the deal. They have the room on the price, I'd bet. With that many miles on it for a 2003, they're probably having trouble selling it, unless the price is rock bottom - which it likely won't be if it's at a dealer.
First, new shocks all around. You'll need them soon anyway most likely, so if you can get them now, for no money, go for it.
Second, check the owner's manual for scheduled service requirements - and make sure they have done all the things on the list - probably including fuel filter, trans fluid and filter change, differential fluid change.
Third, new windshield wiper blades.
Fourth, new battery if the one in the car is original.
Then add some things that aren't important to you that would cost them money, so you have negotiation room.
Then, have them throw in free oil changes, tire balance/rotations, for as long as you can bargain for - perhaps a 100,000 mile service also.
Alot of times stealerships will go with these things because they want you to be accustomed to bringing your car to their shop for service - and the oil changes etc. don't cost them anything hardly.
See if you can get them to throw in a couple of remote keyfobs - those things go out over time. They probably have a bunch in a box somewhere.
I would write down your offer and hand it to them - so everything is very clear and they can't welsh on stuff.
For instance, I bought a car that was from Oklahoma - and as a condition of my offer, I had them change the top of the dashboard - where the sun hits - and now 5 years later, its still nice and new and not curling up - were it not for the change, it would be horrible by now.
If they want to sell the car, they'll make concessions - and the ones that don't cost them much dough will be attractive to them, and save you significant bucks in the future.
Also, see if you can find the guy who washes cars there - someone who is NOT a salesman, and find out how long the car has been there. That can have a major effect on the bargaining - if its been there more than a few weeks, they'll be itching to sell it.
First, look in the glove box and see if the warranty card is there, and see if the old owner's name/address is on it - sometimes you can find out, and call the person, and they may tell you more about the car.
Second, at 75k miles, I'd have the dealer do some preventive work on it before I accepted the deal. They have the room on the price, I'd bet. With that many miles on it for a 2003, they're probably having trouble selling it, unless the price is rock bottom - which it likely won't be if it's at a dealer.
First, new shocks all around. You'll need them soon anyway most likely, so if you can get them now, for no money, go for it.
Second, check the owner's manual for scheduled service requirements - and make sure they have done all the things on the list - probably including fuel filter, trans fluid and filter change, differential fluid change.
Third, new windshield wiper blades.
Fourth, new battery if the one in the car is original.
Then add some things that aren't important to you that would cost them money, so you have negotiation room.
Then, have them throw in free oil changes, tire balance/rotations, for as long as you can bargain for - perhaps a 100,000 mile service also.
Alot of times stealerships will go with these things because they want you to be accustomed to bringing your car to their shop for service - and the oil changes etc. don't cost them anything hardly.
See if you can get them to throw in a couple of remote keyfobs - those things go out over time. They probably have a bunch in a box somewhere.
I would write down your offer and hand it to them - so everything is very clear and they can't welsh on stuff.
For instance, I bought a car that was from Oklahoma - and as a condition of my offer, I had them change the top of the dashboard - where the sun hits - and now 5 years later, its still nice and new and not curling up - were it not for the change, it would be horrible by now.
If they want to sell the car, they'll make concessions - and the ones that don't cost them much dough will be attractive to them, and save you significant bucks in the future.
I did find the original owner info in the glove box and called him. He told me the car was never hit and never gave him any problems. He traded it in August so it has been there a few months, so I would think they want to move it.
Depends on the location & what type of driving (highway or city)
My truck came from Pennsylvania that was all highway driven. Roads there are relatively smooth & pothole free. I live in NYC where there is no such thing as a smooth road. I will never buy a used car that was driven here for that fact alone.....our roads suck!
I did find the original owner info in the glove box and called him. He told me the car was never hit and never gave him any problems. He traded it in August so it has been there a few months, so I would think they want to move it.
You think it would need shocks already?
If not now, then soon enough. Trick is to see how much you can bargain for in the deal. Might work, might not - never hurts to ask!
I would also add an air filter and cabin filter to the list.
If not now, then soon enough. Trick is to see how much you can bargain for in the deal. Might work, might not - never hurts to ask!
I would also add an air filter and cabin filter to the list.
What was I thinking!!!!!!!!
More important than the other things - new belts and hoses. ALL the hoses. i don't know about the 03, but on my 98 LE there was a hose that went under the throttle body - and it was a half-day of labor to change it. There was another little bugger that the guy had to take out the radiator and half the front of the engine to get to - another day of labor. They went out on mine at about 68k miles.
Also, see if you can find the guy who washes cars there - someone who is NOT a salesman, and find out how long the car has been there. That can have a major effect on the bargaining - if its been there more than a few weeks, they'll be itching to sell it.
First of all...all these things that you are talking about sound great,but there's no Dealer in their right mind that will do and "throw" in every single item you mentioned for free.
I really doubt that they will ever honor all these demands.Actually they will probably say yes most likely(just to make the sale) then they will "TACK" extra charges to make up for all your requests...I agree that you should try and get all you can out of the deal but you are just going overboard on this thread.Anyway the things that you stated to look at before buying are very good things to check...Good advice!
First of all...all these things that you are talking about sound great,but there's no Dealer in their right mind that will do and "throw" in every single item you mentioned for free.
I really doubt that they will ever honor all these demands.Actually they will probably say yes most likely(just to make the sale) then they will "TACK" extra charges to make up for all your requests...I agree that you should try and get all you can out of the deal but you are just going overboard on this thread.Anyway the things that you stated to look at before buying are very good things to check...Good advice!
When I bought my car, I got about $1,500 dollars worth of "freebies" such as these - without them blinking an eye. The car had been on their lot for awhile and they wanted to sell it. In the list, I specifically included some stuff to bargain down from - that is part of the negotiation.
When I bought my car, I got about $1,500 dollars worth of "freebies" such as these - without them blinking an eye. The car had been on their lot for awhile and they wanted to sell it. In the list, I specifically included some stuff to bargain down from - that is part of the negotiation.
Never hurts to ask.
Good Deal...Good advice,
Thanks for your suggestions...I'm taking you with me next time I buy a car!!!!
Good Deal...Good advice,
Thanks for your suggestions...I'm taking you with me next time I buy a car!!!!
I didn't really go with myself to buy the car - I looked at the car one day, came home and did research as to what the value of it was, and faxed them my offer the next day.
When you do it that way, they can't put you in the little office and try to manipulate you into doing what they want you to do.
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Need some advice on buying an 03 pathfinder
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