Is it time to say goodbye to my '95 Pathy SE?

NuBNPrince · Jul 18th, 2006, 08:56 AM

Well, friends... my 95 Pathy SE and I have been through a lot. I bought her used in '98... she was the only black Pathy on the lot with manual transmission, and she only had 28k miles on her. I've driven her to NYC, Detroit, Cleveland, Raleigh, Norfolk, Richmond, and Philly. She's hauled stuff for friends I've helped move.

I've never had any serious breakdowns, except for stuff that you'd expect to happen due to normal wear and tear. The clutch died on me at about 105k miles and I had to replace it. A belt wore down and broke on the way to work once... I had the truck towed to a shop and they replaced the proper belts and got me on my way within an hour. Other than those two items, the only other things I've ever had to replace on the truck are rotors & calipers (you know how it is when you get lazy when you need new brake pads).

But fast forward to July 2006... she's got 181k miles on her now, and I haven't kept up with maintaining her like I should. Problems have been mounting, one by one, and I haven't had the money to address them. I'm wondering if I should say goodbye, or start taking care of the problems one-by-one until she's at nominal performance again. Here's a complete list of issues:

- exhaust system leak at one of the y-pipes directly underneath the gearshift (recommendation from mechanic: replace entire exhaust system except for muffler & tailpipe)

- possible freon leak in A/C system

- brake fluid leak at left front tire... possibly either brake fluid hose or caliper; I have to carry a bottle of brake fluid with me and refill the master cylinder every few days, when the ABS and BRAKE lights come on

- cabin light flickers when all doors are closed

- rear right passenger seat belt is broken

- water drips onto the floor from behind the dashboard whenever I turn the car sharply to the left while in motion

- driver door must be slammed to close properly; one of the bolts that holds the door at the proper angle is broken

- the doggone step rails rusted and I had to remove them. What's worse, when I removed them, the mounts near the rear tires had rusted so badly that I couldn't even unscrew the bols there - I just had to yank the step rails off with my bare hands and some pliers. There is a sharp edge there, and anyone who sits in the rear right seat is prone to getting a pretty bad scrape on their leg when exiting the truck.

Every time a new issue pops up, I feel like this:

With a laundry list of issues like this, I'm just blown away as to what to do. And on top of all this, she really needs new tires and brake pads too.

If you were in my situation... would you go for a new car or attack the problems with the current car, one-by-one?

inanima · Jul 18th, 2006, 11:29 AM

well, it all depends. assuming it's paid off and you want/like it enough to keep driving it, your problems aren't really that bad.

- exhaust system-- replace, easy fix maybe $100
- freon leak-- check hoses
- brake fluid leak-- check hoses, replace fittings
- cabin lites flicker- sounds like loose bulb/connection
- seat belt-- check junk yard
- water from dash-- that's from the AC under the dash, I had that happpen in my hardbody
- driver door-- replace broken bolt
- step rails-- you already removed them; if you can't get that last rusted peice off, hit it with a grinding wheel/dremel, metal snips
- tires- easy
- brakes- easy

Animal · Jul 18th, 2006, 12:37 PM

If it were me and the frame and body were in good shape, I'd spend some money and time to do the repairs. It would cost a lot less to do it yourself, if you are able and have someplace out of this heat to work. When considering the cost, consider the cost of a new car (financing, insurance).

Of course, if you want a new vehicle, then I'd still suggest fixing it enough to get through inspection to sell it. I doubt you'll get much on trade-in either way.

dvdswanson · Jul 18th, 2006, 12:41 PM

well depending on the money tree in your home, look to buy a new or newer vehicle and keep the pathy for a builder. it doesnt have to be done all at once and its a lot of fun. otherwise, it really depends on you and how you feel about the pathy.

**88pathoffroad** · Jul 19th, 2006, 01:32 AM

Have you had the timing belt done? It should have been changed at 105,000 miles. If that breaks, kiss your engine goodbye. It's an interference engine.

Just do one project at a time. Fix the brake line first. I still can't believe people drive around with leaking brakes. What if it's leaking from a tiny crack and you have to slam on the brakes to avoid an accident? *pop* goes your brake line and a crash usually ensues. It's only common sense to take care of the brakes.

The water under the dash thing is probably because your AC drip hose is clogged, so the inside of the AC compartment fills with condensation and leaks on you around corners. I bet there's a quart of water in there, heh. The drain hose is very low on the firewall in the engine compartment on the passenger's side. Try a bit of wire to poke inside and free any clogs.

NuBNPrince · Jul 20th, 2006, 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 88pathoffroad

The water under the dash thing is probably because your AC drip hose is clogged, so the inside of the AC compartment fills with condensation and leaks on you around corners. I bet there's a quart of water in there, heh. The drain hose is very low on the firewall in the engine compartment on the passenger's side. Try a bit of wire to poke inside and free any clogs.

People have told me this before. Where do I find the A/C drip hose?

**88pathoffroad** · Jul 20th, 2006, 11:55 PM

I just told you where it is. Read above.

NuBNPrince · Jul 27th, 2006, 11:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 88pathoffroad

I just told you where it is. Read above.

I feel like an idiot because I looked and didn't find it. Should I look down from over the car with the hood open, or should I look from underneath the car?

Truth be told, I should just break down and buy a Chilton's or Haynes' guide and stop bugging you guys...