ok, i just got done tearing off the front of my pathys engine just so i could change the thermostat and radiator hoses...i figured i might as well fix my oil leak while im in there so i tore it down to this..... http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y72...inderwork6.jpg
not much i can do about the crank slots, so im gonna find new keyways and hope it holds....any opinions about this??
back to the original question, ive had an oil leak from the front of the engine for awhile now, i was told on here it might be the cam seals or crank seal...the cam seals are good, there isnt any visible oil around them at all...the crank seal seems to be ok, but its hard to tell really, i think its the front oil pan gasket, my question is will this part come off so i can replace the gaskets in that area or do i have to pull the motor and replace the whole oilpan gasket?? http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y72...inderwork1.jpg
never done anything to the 3.0l but my 1st guess on the oil leak would be the crank seal. with the keyways looking like that its not good. look at the harmonic balancer were the seal would be and feel for any pits (becareful not to cut yourself). if you were able to wiggle the balancer good chance that is your leak. I would replace the seal even if it looks fine (cheap insurance). are you doing the timing belt as well? as far as the crank goes, I would go to a reputable mechanic or machine shop or both and ask them if the crank is still useable or needs repair/replaced.
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Dave
96 4WD XE Reg. Cab ka24e
Calmini 3" SL, Steering, Lock-rite rear, LSD front
yeah im definitely putting a new crank seal in anyways...as for the crankshaft, i know it needs replaced, im just hoping it will hold up awhile cause i have no way of taking it to a machine shop nor can i afford to do anything about it anyways....the timing belt appears to have been replaced recently, it is still in great shape with no cracks or stress marks, it even still has the yellow lettering on it....so it and the waterpump will probably stay on, it only took me an hour to tear it down so doing it again isnt a big deal....
Did you get a new key? Does it fit tight in the key way? Make sure to tighten the harmonic balancer to ... well, I can't find the torque for the v6 in the FSM, but the I4 is 105-112 ft. lbs., so, make it real tight. ;-)
I've never done this on this engine, but I don't see how you would avoid dropping the oil pan. To do this, the FSM says to remove practically the whole front end. It would seem easier to pull the engine - that's not a big deal if you have a hoist or some other means to lift the engine (which you would need even following the FSM procedure).
I'd do the cam seals even if they are good right this moment. The old ones may last another 100K miles or only another 10 miles. Best to a little preventive maintenance.
This may not be answers to all your questions, but I hope it helps.
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Life is too short to take it too seriously
turns out, to get the motor out you have to remove the front axle....first you pull out the crossmember the axle attaches to (we figured that out 3 hours later, coulda saved a bunch of time) we had to sawzall the 2 poorly placed top crossmember to frame bolts to remove it, but it was fairly simple.....then remove the CVs, driveshaft and drop the axle.....then the motor comes out like any other motor....
turns out, to get the motor out you have to remove the front axle....first you pull out the crossmember the axle attaches to (we figured that out 3 hours later, coulda saved a bunch of time) we had to sawzall the 2 poorly placed top crossmember to frame bolts to remove it, but it was fairly simple.....then remove the CVs, driveshaft and drop the axle.....then the motor comes out like any other motor....
I recently went through this ordeal myself. If you would like my insight with this one, e-mail me directly. colejjackson@yahoo.com
I'm currently replacing a water pump. I did the timing belt last spring. Do them both at the same time. If you take off your timing belt, put a new one on.
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