2001 Pathfinder Front Wheel Bearing Locknut Tool HELP!!!!!! - Nissan Forum

 
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post #1 of 7 Old Jan 20th, 2006, 09:24 PM Thread Starter
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2001 Pathfinder Front Wheel Bearing Locknut Tool HELP!!!!!!

Where in the world are you able to purchase a tool to remove the front wheel bearing locknut so I can change my wife's rotors? I have searched high and low and the dealer informed me that they would have to do the brakes for me since you cannot purchase the tool easily. Whose bright idea was it to mount the rotor to the hub anyway? My 91 Explorer rotors pop off after removing the caliper.

Last edited by Eautiger; Jan 20th, 2006 at 09:27 PM. Reason: fix title
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post #2 of 7 Old Jan 21st, 2006, 11:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eautiger
Where in the world are you able to purchase a tool to remove the front wheel bearing locknut so I can change my wife's rotors? I have searched high and low and the dealer informed me that they would have to do the brakes for me since you cannot purchase the tool easily. Whose bright idea was it to mount the rotor to the hub anyway? My 91 Explorer rotors pop off after removing the caliper.

If your 01 is the same as my 02, you can remove that nut with a screw driver and a hammer. I have done this without any problem. You can tighten it back up with the screw driver and hammer, as well.
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post #3 of 7 Old Jan 22nd, 2006, 12:48 AM Thread Starter
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Just tap at an angle and it comes right off? If that is the case and I succeed tomorrow, thank you. If not, thank you still. How tight does the locknut need to be? Is snug tight suffice?
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post #4 of 7 Old Jan 22nd, 2006, 12:49 AM Thread Starter
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My wife says, "U DA MAN"!!
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post #5 of 7 Old Jan 22nd, 2006, 02:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eautiger
Just tap at an angle and it comes right off? If that is the case and I succeed tomorrow, thank you. If not, thank you still. How tight does the locknut need to be? Is snug tight suffice?
Taking the nuts off is usually quite easily done because they are not on there that tight. However, when replacing the nut, you require a bit more initial torque (approx. 75 ft/lbs) to properly perload the bearings. After that the nut is again loosened and then gently snugged up. This will ensure that the bearings are properly seated to prevent premature wear. Here's something I posted on this recently in another thread, and a tool I once "fashioned" for the job (before I had the proper ones)....

************************************
As for the torqueing of the bearings, having a torque wrench and special socket is certainly great but there are ways around this. Picture this, the first time I did this (before I had the tools) I used a 2x4 with 2 long thin bolts through it, spaced to match the holes on the lock washer. I had to drill a hole through the 2x4 between the bolts to fit over the end of the spindle. The 2x4 was cut 12" long - measured from the centerline of the spindle. I then pushed down on the end of the 2x4 with a bathroom scale (don't laugh too loud) to measure how much weight I was putting onto the end of the 2x4.

In other words - - 50 lbs on the scale at the end of the 12" (1 foot) 2x4 = 50 ft/lbs of torque - - follow that???

Now, the idea behind the initial torquing of the washer is to apply sufficient pressure to the bearings to allow the grease to be fully distributed and the bearings to be properly seated in the races. Rotating the rotor/ub during this procedure ensures that the grease and bearings are properly "worked in". Then the washer is backed off and just gently snugged back up to hold everything in that proper position - - not too tight and not too loose. If the bearings are not poperly seated, they will work their way loose while driving and premature wear is inevitable.

One last thing about tools and $$$. Since fixing my vehicles is a hobby for me, I tend to collect tools and have amassed quite a nice collection. I tend to think of the money I'm saving doing all the work myself. The savings often go into purchasing tools, to save more money, to by more tools, to save.... You see the circular logic here? Fortunately my wife supports me in this and appreciates what I do.

So give it a try and see what you come up with. If your concerned about the torquing, you could maybe borrow the tools you need from your local parts store. I know many parts stores are willing to do this these days.

*************************************************

Also, here's a link by another board member who did a similar repair. He produced a good step-by-step description along with photos...

http://www.nissanforums.com/showthread.php?t=114930

Bottom line, make sure the bearings are removed, repacked with grease and properly torqued. Oh and remember to have fun with it, and save some $$$$.

Zilverado
1992 Pathfinder V6-SE 4wd
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post #6 of 7 Old Jan 22nd, 2006, 02:21 AM Thread Starter
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To all in need, this reply by one mister Zilverado is the greatest help one could receive in my particular predicament. Thanks. Mr. Hawaiibrew, U DA FRIGGIN BOMB! Your pics and step by step were a Godsend and I thank you dearly.
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post #7 of 7 Old Jan 22nd, 2006, 02:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Eautiger
To all in need, this reply by one mister Zilverado is the greatest help one could receive in my particular predicament. Thanks. Mr. Hawaiibrew, U DA FRIGGIN BOMB! Your pics and step by step were a Godsend and I thank you dearly.
If I can be so bold as to speak for Mr. Aloha himself....

You're Welcome!

That's what this board is all about.

Zilverado
1992 Pathfinder V6-SE 4wd
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