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Old Sep 27th, 2005, 02:49 PM   #1 (permalink)
beastmoore
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Newbie replacing balljoints

Hi, I need to replace the lower balljoints on my '96 Pathfinder. My Haynes manual only goes up to '95 which doesn't have MacPherson strut. Can anyone walk me through it? I have good mechanical skills and tools. I just don't know whether I need to support the suspension / dismantle anything / relieve spring pressure etc. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old Sep 27th, 2005, 03:06 PM   #2 (permalink)
adroga
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check out the repair manuals at www.autozone.com and they should show you everything you need.

I would think that your haynes manual would not be too different for your car.

See what the manual says and look at your pathfinder to see how similar it is.
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Old Sep 27th, 2005, 03:25 PM   #3 (permalink)
beastmoore
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adroga
check out the repair manuals at www.autozone.com and they should show you everything you need.

I would think that your haynes manual would not be too different for your car.

See what the manual says and look at your pathfinder to see how similar it is.
Thanks, but I don't really want to purchase a subscription for 1 job. The sample manuals don't seem to give any info
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Old Sep 27th, 2005, 04:00 PM   #4 (permalink)
adroga
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I would think that it would just be a matter removing the 3 bolts that retain the BJ to the control arm then removing the clip that is in the part that attaches the BJ to the hub and loosen that bolt, then pry the BJ out.

A ball joint can be figured out well enough just by looking at it I think...
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Old Sep 27th, 2005, 04:02 PM   #5 (permalink)
adroga
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which model pathfinder with which engine do you have?
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Old Sep 27th, 2005, 04:37 PM   #6 (permalink)
beastmoore
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adroga
which model pathfinder with which engine do you have?
Thanks for your replies, Adroga

Have an LE with the 3.3L engine. Do you have to support the control arm? Any danger of spring violently pushing arm down once balljoint undone? Midas quoted a ridiculous 2.6 hours to do both. That is why I was wondering if it is not starightforward
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Old Sep 27th, 2005, 05:43 PM   #7 (permalink)
adroga
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Well when I did my balljoint, the hardest part was actually breaking the nuts loose and then separating the balljoint. I dont think the spring will push violently down as the bottom of the spring is coiled inside the shock and the shock is bolted to the car through the shock mount. Its not a horrible idea to support the control arm, but nor necessary IMO. Loosen the 3 smaller bolts that attach BJ to the control arm, then remove the cotter pin off the big bolt that attaches the BJ to the hub and then loosen that one. When all nuts and bolts are loosened, then proceed to remove them. Removing 1 set the trying to loosen the remaining one(s) will be more difficult as the BJ will rotate since its not anchored. Get a tool or a pulley puller (I think thats what its called) to separate the ball joint.

Get a new BJ, and installation is reverse of removal. Make sure the new Bj is greased properly.
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Old Sep 27th, 2005, 07:34 PM   #8 (permalink)
beastmoore
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Thanks, Adroga. I thought it would be that easy. Started removing components to do timing belt & water pump tonight - what a pain.
Fortunately my brother-in-law can get me good deals on parts - getting 2 balljoints for about $60 cost.

By the way - what does IMO mean? I am not as computer literate as my kids.
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Old Sep 27th, 2005, 07:57 PM   #9 (permalink)
adroga
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Sorry.. IMO = in my opinion

60$ for 2 balljoints is a pretty good price. Always nice to have a hook up with parts.

Just to let you know.. check out www.rockauto.com for prices .. they seem to have low prices, I just cant take advantage of it being in canada.

Good luck.
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Old Sep 28th, 2005, 07:48 AM   #10 (permalink)
beastmoore
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Where in Canada are you?
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Old Sep 28th, 2005, 08:29 AM   #11 (permalink)
adroga
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montreal actually.. didnt realize you were from ontario..
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Old Nov 8th, 2005, 04:30 PM   #12 (permalink)
beastmoore
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Well I got the balljoints, timing belt and waterpump done. Biggest PIA with balljoints was that, at least for the '96, the balljoint can not be lifted enough to remove (drive shaft boot interferes). Need to remove dustcap and circlip, then slide driveshaft out of hub to get clearance. Found that turning steering wheel helped move drive shaft enough and get it back in place. Other than that, only other problem was tightening nut (balljoint turned) and the replacements I used did not have a hex key fitting on end of stud.
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