New Member ForumFor newbie introductions & questions regarding the forums Technical and vehicle questions should be asked in the appropriate section below
Hey everyone. I just picked up a '96 Nissan 200SX SER for use in circle track racing with some possible road racing. This is my first Nissan so I know very little about them and will be looking for info on engine, trans, susp. specs; for example the codes used to refer to this car's drive train and model. Also looking for speed secrets involving stock or stock appearing components and tuning tips.
Hey everyone. I just picked up a '96 Nissan 200SX SER for use in circle track racing with some possible road racing. This is my first Nissan so I know very little about them and will be looking for info on engine, trans, susp. specs; for example the codes used to refer to this car's drive train and model. Also looking for speed secrets involving stock or stock appearing components and tuning tips.
Welcome to NF and congrats on picking up a great car. The engine code is SR20DE and it has a ton of aftermarket support. The 200SX falls under the B14 chassis. Good luck racing!
Hey everyone. I just picked up a '96 Nissan 200SX SER for use in circle track racing with some possible road racing. This is my first Nissan so I know very little about them and will be looking for info on engine, trans, susp. specs; for example the codes used to refer to this car's drive train and model. Also looking for speed secrets involving stock or stock appearing components and tuning tips.
Expecting a car to road race and circle track race is a tall order. For road racing you set the car up so it will handle turns both ways equally. If you take the car to a circle track and try to compete with guys that have set their cars up to turn left only you're going to have a hard time. Circle track cars put as much of their weight on the left side as the rules allow, install springs shocks tires everything with the left turn only considered. I think you'd need 2 different suspensions at least.
Normally you'd be right tyrodtom but at the track I race we run a 1/4 mile oval with a figure 8 and on any given night we'll run the oval in either direction or the 8 or half oval with a dog leg so in reality what I need to do is set it up more like a road racer because we never know how they're going to run us and it may even change from heat to feature. Oh and just for fun they'll even let us run the 1/2 mile once in a while. The only down side is that it's intended to be a purely stock division so any changes I make must pass for stock. The car has been lowered and I've even got some camber adj. out of it and am considering upgrading the sway bars. For the most part I'm happy with the current handling and it makes decent power but I'm always looking for more. It has an aftermarket clutch assy. and revs out pretty well but with it's current gearing and tire size I'm hitting the rev limiter in second just a bit too soon and would prefer not to shift 3rd so I'm wondering how to get around that and just how high I can really rev that motor safely in stock configuration or what would be needed as far as valve springs retainer's etc. to rev it out higher.
I'm not going to badmouth any form of racing, but figure 8, wow. I think I'd like to try that. But try going up one size on your tires; like from 185 to 195, or even from 13in wheels to 14, or 14 to 15, I know you can't do a lot of experimenting cause it get's expensive quick. Don't use new tires, try to find tires that are about 3/4 used, a lot less tread squirm, makes quite a difference, takes a lot of times finding tires like that though. what I do is my daily driver and my race car uses the same size, track rules are that we have to run street tires with over 400 treadwear rating, so right now my daily driver has next years racing tires on it. On my car I have taken the vacuum line to the fuel pressor regulator loose, plugged the hose, and left the reg. open, runs rich at low rpm, but much better off the turns.
"figure 8, wow. I think I'd like to try that"
Well Tom if you have a good car and like it then I'd avoid the 8.
It's fun but you generally see a lot of carnage. It's a beginner's class to begin with and there's a fair amount of bumping with the normal left hand oval but once in the 8 , forget about it. They just ended the season with the annual "Crashfest" which includes the school busses and then the trailer demo on the 1/4 mile figure 8. The busses are fun to watch lift one rear wheel(s) arount the corners and turn over but the trailer demo is by far the most entertaining. The last guy running still pulling some part of his trailer wins and the whole track is littered with boats, campers, motorcycles, old snowmobiles, bathtubs, you name it and the tracks own car is painted up to look like a squad car and is lettered "accident instigator" with his sole purpose to push debris back in to the path of the cars. BTW they also leave the dead busses from the previous race out ther just for kicks.
My car doesn't have one straight panel on it ( including the roof ), I work at a bodyshop and have free acess to a frame machine, eat your heart out. My track, in Coeburn, Va. has 3 classes that my car can race in, Hornet, 14-16 yrs. old, Ladies pure 4, and Pure 4, some nights my car runs all 3. I don't even want to remember how many times it's been wrecked, but i've had it on the frame machine 4 times. It's a fun car and that's the way I use it, 8 people other than me has raced it this year alone. This is it's last year though, it's getting too beat up. Next year it's getting a new car built around it's engine.
anybody out there who can help me, i'm installin a 5" tach on my 96 altima.i got the power and ground goin but i can't find the home for that green wire.any tips would really help
anybody out there who can help me, i'm installin a 5" tach on my 96 altima.i got the power and ground goin but i can't find the home for that green wire.any tips would really help
Different tachs have different wiring colors, thats probably the wire that goes to the coil, most hook to the little wire between the coil and distributor, some the little wire going from the wire harness to the coil. You really should have and use the instructions that came with the tach.
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