For those of you who already did the throttle body mod on a B14 GA16DE, did you have to bore the intake manifold to match the bored throttle body? The link provided doesn't give me a clear picture of what's being modified. http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/march99/tb.shtml
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2003 Sentra SER Spec V
1996 200SX SE 5-speed :cool: (GA16DE-T)
1991 Pathfinder SE-V6 :cheers:
You're going to have to port match the intake manifold to get ANY benifit out of the SE-R throttle body mod. Otherwise, you might as well have the stock throttle body.
Actually Nature I was talking about boring the orginal TB. I spoke with DragonSpeed Saturday because he already did this mod. He said the article is refering to shaving the hinged shaft that opens and closes the TB itself. The bar right in the middle. After opening it up I didn't do it because it did not appear as if it will make any real difference. You have to consider that the TB will turn flat at WOT which means the shaft won't take up much volume at all. I do recommend cleaning inside the TB though. Mine was dirty as hell. I cleaned inside the rubber air intake hose and intake manifold as well. I it a little more responsive but not a lot.
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2003 Sentra SER Spec V
1996 200SX SE 5-speed :cool: (GA16DE-T)
1991 Pathfinder SE-V6 :cheers:
Location: B.S. from University of Connecticut in 2003
Posts: 351
oh that!!! that's just TB butterfly mod... you don't have to bore TB or intake manifold... just cut off the metal piece of the TB plate that would allow it to open more fully, like you mentioned.. few people have done this mod and said it was relatively easy... go for it
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"Those who stand for nothing, will fall for anything"
Location: Smack dab in da middle of the Pacific Ocean
Posts: 32
I did a variation on the mod. I cut off the FRONT portion of the bolt between the screw threads and filed down the portion outside of the screw threads to almost nothing. That way, the screw threads are still there. (The mod as posted calls for the REAR portion of the bolt to be cut off, which is much easier to do.) Now, the incoming air can glide up the center of the butterfly plate without the bolt disrupting the air. ( If I had a threader and the right size screws, I would cut off the whole front portion and thread the rear portion and screw in the new screws in from the front instead of from the rear.)
The result? Amazingly, the lull before the midrange pull seems to go away earlier. (PLACEBO??? -my disclaimer) But, it doesn't turn it into a SR20det. But, hey, it's a free mod, so anything noticeable is good! Also, the SOUND changed considerably. (I have CAI) The whooshing sound at WOT was diminished 75%, and the tone is much more refined and very much less raspy. (I think the bolt semicircle profile over the butterfly plate causes a whole lot of turbulence, thus causing the whooshing sound.) It is so much less raspy that it seems to sound quieter and deeper.
do you have any pictures of it?
I wanna see what cha did because i dislike that raspy sound from my intake and i want it to drop down from an angry bumble bee to a sentra engine
I have a 94 GA auto, will at ported GA manual TB fit without mods or what will have to make it work? I have cruise control. If the GA tb cannot fit, what has to be done to a SE-R tb? What year and how do you make it work?
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Dan
1992 Nissan SE-R
2001 MR2 Spyder
Location: Smack dab in da middle of the Pacific Ocean
Posts: 32
If you wanna reduce the raspy sound, I suggest you get a header, or do some work on the stock manifold. I have the one that has the two downpipes feeding into the catalytic converter. There is a funnel that collects two exhaust ports and funnels it into one of the two downpipes. You can dremel down the connection between the funnel and the downpipe. (It is a really poorly done pipe-in-a-pipe weld that has mega overlap.) Believe me, this will reduce 50% of your raspiness! (I guess I have too much time on my hands.) Some have said an aftermarket header turned their intake growl into a melow purr. You just need to buy the header gaskets before you remove the manifold. (less than 8 bucks) Aside from the tight-fitting heat shield, removal and reinstallation is the quick and easy part. If you have a dremel and time to dremel down some pipes, then do this first! You could also try lining the inside of your intake pipe with some felt.