smj999smj

You seem to know a lot about the 05 pathfinder radiators. Which should I buy and should I re-activate the trans. oil cooler setup or buy one with no tranny oil cooler? Do you think bypassing will cause harm long term? And what is this you mentioned in your Nissan letter about foam seals replaced when you replaced your radiator? Does the core thickness of the radiator matter? I see they vary. Thanks George

(Sorry I had to past the replay as 3 messages. They only let you use 1000 characters per post.)

Most of the mechanical parts are available on the aftermarket (timing chains, brake parts, etc.). I use RockAuto Auto Parts a lot for generic car parts for their prices, selection and service. When it comes to electronic or electrical parts, it's best to go with genuine Nissan when you can (starters, alternators, distributors) if you plan to stay "stock." For Z-car part vendors, here are some links:

Z Car Parts.com -- Motorsport Auto -- Home
Black Dragon Automotive - Datsun 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 280ZX and Mazda RX7 Auto Parts and Accessories
ZPARTS.COM | 240Z 260Z 280Z 280ZX 300ZX | PARTS

If you run into any "snags," feel free to message me!

One magazine you may enjoy is Nissan Sport Magazine, which caters to all Nissans but has some good articles on the early Z's as well as advertisers that deal in Z parts and a good listing of Z-car clubs. If there is a Z-car club in your area, it might be a good idea to get involved with it.There are a number of Z-car events across the country. As far as literature, go to Barnes & Nobles website ( Barnes & Noble - Books, Textbooks, eBooks, Toys, Games, DVDs and More ) and search "Datsun 280Z" in books. You'll find a number of books available. Another good purchase would be a 1978 Datsun 280Z factory service manual. Personally, I prefer the ol' paper manual and you might be able to find a good, used one on Ebay. There are also downloads available and the manual on CD, if you choose. Just Google-search it. Google is also great for finding info on the web. I'm sure there's more than one early Z specific forum, as well.

The Datsun 280Z is sorta the "Ford Mustang" of Asian cars. There is a ton of information from a multitude of sources. '78 was the last of the first generation Z's which started in '69 (only 500 made that year). Up to '74 they used a 2.4L with twin carbs. The early Z's had the better carbs, whereas the late 240's and the 260Z had carbs that were famous for vapor lock due to the location of the fuel bowl that would boil the fuel on hot days. The 260Z, with it's slightly bigger engine, only lasted one year: 1974. I had one; it was junk! In 75, Nissan went to multiport fuel injection and days of the tempermental carbs were over! In '79, the 280ZX arrived with it's slightly larger body. The 2-seater is by far the most popular as may find the "roof hump" of the 2+2 unattractive. It's still a fun car and for a sports car, not too bad to work on. Many parts are still available through Nissan and the aftermarket has increased greatly over the last few years.

Hi. Complete newbee here. Just bought a 78 280 zx 2x2. I know almost nothing about nissan products. (or any Japanees cars or anything built after 1973)[[long story]] But you sound as if you do. I have never posted a note on a forum either as I said "complete newbee"... So I have many questions about literature available on the net about my particular car. Could you direct me to a sight? Or, perchance inquire of you from time to time or if you could recomend someone who might help me That would rok.
Thank you. rikkihoffecker

Nissan started using them back on the A33 Maximas and B14 Sentra, IIRC. It helps prevent brake squeek by pushing the pads off the rotor when the brakes are released.

I noticed that on all late model Altima's, the front brake pads use pad retractors that hook into the pad wear sensors. Do you know anything about these? It seems that most of the other models don't use them.

Honestly, I haven't had to do too many; I left Nissan in Oct., 2003, so I really didn't do too many rear brake jobs on them. Usually a little P-blaster and a small wire brush to clean the area around the center hub and a big "whack" of a big hammer squarly against the hub is all I've ever used to break the rotor loose and pull it off if it doesn't have the threaded holes in it.

Hey SMJ,
On a late model Altima like an '04 and later, the rear brake rotors are sometimes very difficult to remove. Unfortunately there are no threaded holes in the rotors for "pusher" bolts to screw into for popping the rotor off. Do you have any good tricks for taking the rotors off?