A few things I've noticed about our wild and wonderful MAFs over the past year-and-a-half reading I've done over at Altimas.net
1) MAF sensor is the identical part between the 2002 Altima 2.5S and 3.5SE (original part # 22680-8J000) as confirmed by the parts list I have for that year's models.
2) 2.5S/SL owners have not seen as great a rate of MAF failures as 3.5SE owners.
3) 3.5SE owners with CAI or WAI intakes have seen a greater number of MAF failurers than those with stock intakes.
4) My original MAF (bad from the factory which I've now confirmed through problem isolation) was 22680-8JE00. This MAF was replaced last August with the Maxima MAF from TSB NTB03-022 part # 22680-AM600 and subsequent performance of the engine was wildly improved. The original MAF had not officially failed, but was throwing some weird numbers to the ECU, causing a myriad of issues.
5) The bulk of the MAF failures seem to be the heating element which receives increased amount of voltage as air volume increases and eventually seems to burn out. I don't believe there have been too many Diode failures (ie. the temperature sensor on the MAF) so far. This theory is supported by the fact that the 4-cylinder models don't see much in the way of failures, likely due to the fact that those engines do not intake as much air.
6) The diode would not be difficult to replace, the heating element would be greatly so.
7) Bosch is now another source for the MAF. Hopefully it's a more rugged design.
I just found an auto wrecker up here in Toronto, Canada that recently got a (right-side) smashed in 2002 Altima 2.5S and I may endeavour to purchase a second MAF from them (as long as it's not 22680-8JE00 Part #) for 157.50 Canadian (about $130.00 U.S.). If I do, I would make that MAF available to any of you for a discounted price (ie. less than I pay for it) if I never need it while I have the Altima 3.5SE, which is going back off lease in September 2005, and will likely not be replaced with another Altima or Maxima).
Nice to see some other canucks on here... what part of t-dot are you in? I'm around mid-town.. Bayview/Eglinton area.
Went to highschool in your area at Leaside, and have friends still around that area. I'm in Scarberia right now, but looking for a closer place to buy sometime this summer.
Went to highschool in your area at Leaside, and have friends still around that area. I'm in Scarberia right now, but looking for a closer place to buy sometime this summer.
Yup, that's me.. Mr. Leaside. I didn't grow up around here, but my grandparents have always lived in this area, so it was like my 2nd home I guess.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 10e
Which dealer your car coming from?
St. Clair Nissan. I called them today and they said it's been on the train for ten days, so should be in by Tuesday at the latest. They need a half-day to have some co-op flunkie wash and vacuum it (aka PDI) before I can pick it up.. oooh I'm excited!
Finally got me today too. Pulled the code and also got the lovely "1102" MAF code. At least it happened to me while driving instead of to the wife during her commute. Guess it's time to find a sensor.
Ni$$an stealership quoted me $568 for a new one AND $85 to hook up the Consult to diagnose the car. Are they serious?
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96 SE-R: SR20VE - bolt ons
97 SE-R: SR20DET 54C - on hold - need $$$
03 Altima SE V6: PR CAI/SS grill/alarm & remote start/100 sf Stinger Roadkill/
19's (need tires)/stereo going in next
Have already been there. That's where I got the MAF for my VE from. I only paid 50 + shipping then. It was the first place I looked for this MAF sensor and found quite a few, including a kinda local one I can drive to pick up.
Thanks for the heads up. I was curious about putting the above mentioned Maxima MAF sensor in there, but am wondering will it be a direct plug and play swap for the original? If so, that may be the direction I'd like to try. I didn't put an intake on this car just because of trying to avoid a sensor failure as much as possible. Maybe the Maxima sensor isn't as sensitive as the stocker is. Either way, 2400 rpms isn't fun at all.
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96 SE-R: SR20VE - bolt ons
97 SE-R: SR20DET 54C - on hold - need $$$
03 Altima SE V6: PR CAI/SS grill/alarm & remote start/100 sf Stinger Roadkill/
19's (need tires)/stereo going in next
Update: Ordered new sensor yesterday. Received it today. Car is good to go again. All for waaaaaaaaaaaay under the Nissan suggested retail price.
Thank goodness for the forum and all its info.
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96 SE-R: SR20VE - bolt ons
97 SE-R: SR20DET 54C - on hold - need $$$
03 Altima SE V6: PR CAI/SS grill/alarm & remote start/100 sf Stinger Roadkill/
19's (need tires)/stereo going in next
morons like this start threads all the time. They probably want a 240sx because its what is hot right now instead of a honda civic and wants to drift in a shopping parking lot...dumb and unsafe.guys like this can't handle the power of a vehicle and want the numbers for bragging rights,only to find themselves wrapped around a tree.
JKWright,
I have a friend that had a Actron tool that read my engine light fault as a P1441. Since you reference these codes in you email, I was wondering if you can help me locate mine fault. I have a 2001 Nissan Sentra.
Thanks!
morons like this start threads all the time. They probably want a 240sx because its what is hot right now instead of a honda civic and wants to drift in a shopping parking lot...dumb and unsafe.guys like this can't handle the power of a vehicle and want the numbers for bragging rights,only to find themselves wrapped around a tree.
JKWright,
I have a friend that had a Actron tool that read my engine light fault as a P1441. Since you reference these codes in you email, I was wondering if you can help me locate mine fault. I have a 2001 Nissan Sentra.
Thanks!
Mike!
You have posted your question in the wrong part of the Altima forum. Please look for the section that is for the 98-01 Altimas, found here. They should be able to help you out in there.
Not to mention JK doesn't post on this site anymore and hasn't for over a year.
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Even Ice Cube calls me an OG. Ez-E would, but well, you know....he had relations with Mike Young.
P stands for powertrain. Not sure about 1441? double check that code and call the parts dept at Nissan and ask them to ask a Technician if they don't know.
DAMN IT! does anyone know where the thread is for the sr20 code
The codes are a standard in the US since about 20 years back. All cars have the same trouble codes if applicable. (GM, Ford, Nissan, Whatever all the same) I don't know if the process to pull and reset them is. To bad the OBDII isn't cheap.
Linear Mode
