I'm looking for info regarding how the auto tranny in the new Altimas perform with the 3.5 engine. I know, I know, autos are for wimps, but it's about convenience (with two kids and all). I've had a few decent cars with sticks (Acura Integra GS-R), but am looking into a performance sedan and like what I see so far in the Altima. So, does the auto behave well or what (shift points, etc.) and are there any aftermarket goodies for it?
Originally posted by OhTwoAltimaSE The Automatic works great. The gated shifter is a nice feature, and you can drive it like a stick... Starting in first and then go through the gears.
No aftermarket parts yet, but at WOT, the shift points are well below redline. Manually "shifting" the car really helps if speed is the goal.
could not have said it better myself. The only problem I have with the auto is with the VQ35's torque and the sometimes odd shift behavior, it can be suprising to say the least when its wet out.
The Auto Tranny.. is pretty good when you "manually"shift it. I've taken it to the track and ran a 15.2 when I just left it in D, and a 14.7 manually shifting. I've since added a CAI, and custom exhaust, and ran a 14.67.. but my car gets up and goes now..
__________________ 02 3.5 V6 Sheer Silver MOMO shift knob, 20% Llumar Tint, Nokya pedals, Aftermarket leather, magnaflow exhaust, resonator removed - 2 1/2 inch straight pipe to the Y-pipe, AEM CAI with BPV, 17x8 Konig Blatants with 225/50/17 Nitto NT450's, Street Scene Grille Link to My Ride
Also, I know of a shop near me that is doing VB mods, which will tighten the gearing and prevent a lot of the vagueness in our trannies. He told me it would cost about $350. And while he did say it would void your warranty, it wouldn't b/c the dealer would never open up the tranny to check. He was a former Lexus mechanic so I guess he knows what he's talking about in that aspect.
__________________ 02 3.5 V6 Sheer Silver MOMO shift knob, 20% Llumar Tint, Nokya pedals, Aftermarket leather, magnaflow exhaust, resonator removed - 2 1/2 inch straight pipe to the Y-pipe, AEM CAI with BPV, 17x8 Konig Blatants with 225/50/17 Nitto NT450's, Street Scene Grille Link to My Ride
the auto tranny shifts early cause the torque converter causes the torque to fall off like a rock at 6200 rpm. i mean it goes straight to zero. you are faster shifting at 6200 than at 6750.
the best starts are with half to 3/4 throttle as well.
i have dyno'ed my auto with mods (i/e/chip) and this is where you want to shift.
the gear ratios are close enough that, for example, 6700 rpm will do you less good than say about 4200 rpm in the next gear.
my best time was 14.9 in the quarter on a 100 degree night at 1500 ft altitude.
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BetterLifeThruChemistry My car is here
Originally posted by 3.5SE Auto the auto tranny shifts early cause the torque converter causes the torque to fall off like a rock at 6200 rpm. i mean it goes straight to zero. you are faster shifting at 6200 than at 6750.
the best starts are with half to 3/4 throttle as well.
i have dyno'ed my auto with mods (i/e/chip) and this is where you want to shift.
the gear ratios are close enough that, for example, 6700 rpm will do you less good than say about 4200 rpm in the next gear.
my best time was 14.9 in the quarter on a 100 degree night at 1500 ft altitude.
Welcome aboard Snolden.. your sig gave it away..
__________________ 02 3.5 V6 Sheer Silver MOMO shift knob, 20% Llumar Tint, Nokya pedals, Aftermarket leather, magnaflow exhaust, resonator removed - 2 1/2 inch straight pipe to the Y-pipe, AEM CAI with BPV, 17x8 Konig Blatants with 225/50/17 Nitto NT450's, Street Scene Grille Link to My Ride
Originally posted by 3.5SE Auto sorry, i wasn't officially invited so I figured I would change my screen name to protect ohtwo-er the person that invited me.
haha
he is the official "inviter" ....he didnt tell you that? Ruben your FIRED!
I left it in "D" and it went 9.48@76 or 77 1/8th. I am not sure what that equates to in 1/4, but the 'local' track is actually 1000ft and it went 12.21@85.56 I just pulled the stock paper (really dirty) filter out and that was all that was done to the car.
Originally posted by Frank02L I left it in "D" and it went 9.48@76 or 77 1/8th. I am not sure what that equates to in 1/4, but the 'local' track is actually 1000ft and it went 12.21@85.56 I just pulled the stock paper (really dirty) filter out and that was all that was done to the car.
Wonder if there is a calculator out there that can convert that number....?
Well, there is a "rough" factor that converts 1000ft to 1320 ETs, but I have no MPH conversion. (.835)
12.21/.835=14.62
Only for 1 pass, only at the track. Not like I run around without a filter all the time. Also, my 1/8th mph was higher than what you used as an "extrapolation".