Power window switch (driver side front) has bad contact...still works but requires too much force to operate. Is there an easy way to get at the assembly to clean the contact? It's getting worse.
There are 2 parts that can be damaged..the motor and the regulator. The motor attaches to the regulator. The regulator is what actually makes the window go up and down..the motor just supplies the force. Anyways, if you try to roll up your window and you hear the motor..then your regulator is out. If you cant hear the motor..your motor is out. Here's how you fix it.
Take apart the plastic door panel. Remove the plastic lining. Take off the metal piece that looks like a handle. There is a flat metal piece with an arrow pointed towards the front of the car with 4 screw/bolts. Take it off. Now have the window at the lowest position. There are 2 screw/bolts that hold the mirrow onto the regulator..align it so it matches up with 2 holes at the bottom. This has enough clearance so you can stick a socket extension so loosen the bolts. Take out the window by pulling it up and out. The regulator is bolted onto the door. There are 4 screws on the left side..2 on top and 2 on bottom. Take those off. There are 3 screw/bolts on the right side with 2 little hook things holding it in place. Take those off. Now just yank the regulator/motor assembly out. Replace and put it back together.
I'm sorry Coco, given the symtoms it is probably just a bad/poor contact in the master switch.
Pull the door panel and remove the switch assembly and then take it apart. Be very careful since there are many small parts and springs inside. Once apart you will see the rocker contacts which just need a good cleaning with a blade for the crustys and a pencil eraser to polish the contact(s). I would clean all of them while you are in there. Then reassemble the switch once again being careful of the small components. Plug it in to test it and then put it on the door panel.
Troy
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1992 S13 240SX SE Fastback KA24DE 5 spd - Type X Aero & Seibon Carbon Hood & Hatch -soon GT28RS
1993 U13 Altima SE KA24DET 5 spd w/ Nismo LSD - A high hp FWD can be fun (GT30R Turbo inside)
1990 Z32 300ZX VG30DETT 5 spd - 600HP & Very Civilized (working on twin GT28RS turbos)
Still trying to import a 1988 R31 Skyline GTS-R w/ RB20DET-R - only 800 produced (legal under show/display regs)
You could be right but I thought maybe try that first.
Troy
__________________
SHIFT_Happiness
1992 S13 240SX SE Fastback KA24DE 5 spd - Type X Aero & Seibon Carbon Hood & Hatch -soon GT28RS
1993 U13 Altima SE KA24DET 5 spd w/ Nismo LSD - A high hp FWD can be fun (GT30R Turbo inside)
1990 Z32 300ZX VG30DETT 5 spd - 600HP & Very Civilized (working on twin GT28RS turbos)
Still trying to import a 1988 R31 Skyline GTS-R w/ RB20DET-R - only 800 produced (legal under show/display regs)
yea, i have the same problem, but now mine just broke completely, does anyone have a wiring diagram for ti so i know which ones to short out to make the window go back up?
I read through the threads on how to fix the problem, but that's not something I can do. I was totally lost. About how much would it cost to have a mechanic fix this problem cuz I'm so tired of using a straight pen to play with the two metal bars. Please!!!!
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