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J30 1989-1994 Chassis 1989-1994 Maxima

       
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Old Oct 3rd, 2005, 05:37 PM   #1 (permalink)
nismosleeper
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Checked compression

Ok, so I checked my compression cyl 1 172 cyl 2 195
3 160 4 183
5 165 6 190
I've heard that if it's a reasonable number, from lowest to highest if there is only a difference of 20 then your car is in good shape, and if it's within 10 then it's awesome....so is my engine healthy, or should I get a better one? Thanks
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Old Oct 3rd, 2005, 10:04 PM   #2 (permalink)
Matt93SE
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you've either got some serious gunk buildup in #2,4,6, or you've got leaky valves/rings/something in #1,3,5.

try a good dose of seafoam and see what happens.

also make sure you're holding the throttle wide open when you're checking these and that you run the starter the same amount of time for each one. (I usually just run the sucker for about 6-8 seconds each to make sure the thing peaks out.)
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Old Oct 4th, 2005, 02:01 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
you've either got some serious gunk buildup in #2,4,6, or you've got leaky valves/rings/something in #1,3,5.

try a good dose of seafoam and see what happens.

also make sure you're holding the throttle wide open when you're checking these and that you run the starter the same amount of time for each one. (I usually just run the sucker for about 6-8 seconds each to make sure the thing peaks out.)
Will do...thanks. Oh, I did run it hot once, could that have messed up one of the head gaskets? I'll run seafoam and do the throttle and get back with ya.
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Old Oct 4th, 2005, 08:34 AM   #4 (permalink)
Matt93SE
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unless you got the cyl #s wrong, they're alternating position and side...
123 is down one side and 456 is down the other...
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Old Oct 4th, 2005, 12:29 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
unless you got the cyl #s wrong, they're alternating position and side...
123 is down one side and 456 is down the other...
oops, they are on the same side, I guess that i was wrong. I was just going off of the cap, and the numbers on it. Sorry 'bout that; think that it might be a head gasket then? Thanks
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Old Oct 4th, 2005, 12:45 PM   #6 (permalink)
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yup. prolly a HG. buy a new engine. it's easier than the HG replacement.
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Old Oct 4th, 2005, 12:53 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
yup. prolly a HG. buy a new engine. it's easier than the HG replacement.
I think that i might just save up and get some headwork on it then. The local yards either want too much, or have compressions like 140 across the board. Thank you for the help and advice.
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Old Oct 4th, 2005, 12:58 PM   #8 (permalink)
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bah.. Apex used to sell me VGs for $300 a pop and had dozens sitting on the shelves in good condition.
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Old Oct 4th, 2005, 01:15 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
bah.. Apex used to sell me VGs for $300 a pop and had dozens sitting on the shelves in good condition.
Those fools sold me one for 375. Three hundred is still kinda steep. All Parts did have a perfect one for 105, but not anymore. A HG is hard to do, but only like 150 to do, plus my time. I don't know....guess I'll just look around and decide. Thanks
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Old Oct 4th, 2005, 04:23 PM   #10 (permalink)
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dude, 300 is still cheap. try finding a VE.
the only places that sell $100 engines are shady u-pull-it yards and other places that aren't exactly reputable.

check car-part.com for a reasonable price. usually the bottom 30% of them are what I consider fair pricing. the top ones are often higher than new OEM.
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Old Oct 5th, 2005, 01:14 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
dude, 300 is still cheap. try finding a VE.
the only places that sell $100 engines are shady u-pull-it yards and other places that aren't exactly reputable.

check car-part.com for a reasonable price. usually the bottom 30% of them are what I consider fair pricing. the top ones are often higher than new OEM.
I found a good guy (the same guy that did turbogxe's stuff) that will do headwork for 225, and can get reground cams for another 190 or so, I know that there are other costs to be had like new HGs and springs..., but I will probably go that route.
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Old Oct 5th, 2005, 09:27 AM   #12 (permalink)
Matt93SE
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new valve guides, seals, cam seals, head bolts, intake and exhaust and head gaskets....

you're looking at about $300 just in parts to pull the head and rebuild it.. not just a head gasket.

look at courtesy's site.. they used to have a "head rebuild kit" that included everything you need- all seals, gaskets, etc to rebuild the heads. it was around $250-300 IIRC.
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Old Oct 13th, 2005, 02:08 PM   #13 (permalink)
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new engine?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
bah.. Apex used to sell me VGs for $300 a pop and had dozens sitting on the shelves in good condition.
Hi Matt,
I read many of your posts and found them excellent. Would love your advice. I have a 1993 Motor and the car changed hands many times before me. It has 146k miles on it. Doesn't smoke, but runs really rough. Dealer tells me one of the injectors is bad and recommends changing all of them to the tune of $1300 for parts and labor. I checked it out and found that one injector alone is $125 each and you can't get NISSAN OEM for less than $85 each. So all together, o-rings and injectors, I'll pay $800 in parts alone. I just spent money on new water pump, timing belt and timing belt. (I can obviously transfer the new water pump to the new motor). Where is a good source of used VG engines you'd recommend? I heard very, very mixed reviews of the JD motors imported from Japan. Will the Nissan Pathfinder motor, at 3.3 Liters, and it's a VG motor, be a good choice? I'm thinking that at this point, getting a used motor with accessories on it and fuel injectors is a good option to have on a cost comparison basis.

Any ideas? Where is APEX? I have heard of Jeg's but they seem to specialize in American cars only.
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Old Oct 14th, 2005, 09:09 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Apex is on north Peoria in Tulsa, Oklahoma. They don't do much if any online business. You would have to change a LOT of things on the 3.3L vg to make that happen, but it would be quick. I would just get a used one in the states, JDM is overrated unless you are getting something not produced domestically, like an sr20det or rb series engine. Can't you just change the bad injector?
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Old Oct 14th, 2005, 01:30 PM   #15 (permalink)
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for injectors, try just buying a set of used ones.. you can swap them in a few hours with basic hand tools. do some searching for some of the FAQ pages I 've mentioned in the past and there are writeups there telling you how to do them.

you can usually buy a set of 6 used injectors for roughly $50-100.. then you'll need the new o-rings from the dealer at about $2 each. if you swap the entire fuel rail, you'll only need to buy the 6 that go between the manifold and injector.
then stick your old ones in a box and save them for later. if one of them fails, you have 5 working ones to swap later.
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