I'm looking at a 96 Nissan D21 Hardbody. When I get it what fluids should I flush? Any known failure points on the truck? No frame rust. What filters will need to be replaced? It has around 200,000 miles on it. How long should it last? Thanks.
Last edited by Mosinguy; Jan 1st, 2013 at 03:49 PM.
I'm looking at a 96 Nissan D21 Hardbody. When I get it what fluids should I flush? Any known failure points on the truck? No frame rust. What filters will need to be replaced? It has around 200,000 miles on it. How long should it last? Thanks.
Welcome, Mosinguy!
96 D21 Hardbody! (thumbs up)
(1st) Is it 2wd, 4wd? 4cyl, 6cyl? Std, or Auto trans? All of that makes a big difference.
(2nd) Change all the fluids! Flush? Well, the ones that have never been changed and really look bad ...flush those out for sure. All of them! Engine oil, antifreeze, std or auto trans fluid, brake fluid, power-steering fluid, transfer case, and both front and rear differentials, if applicable.
(3rd) Failure points? That completely depends on the specific model. (see line 1)
(4th) No rust? That's a good thing. Rust did kill a LOT of truck frames over the years, especially if the truck came from a region that salts its roads in the Winter.
(5th) Replace any and all filters! Oil, air, fuel and auto trans (where applicable)! Even the PCV valve!
(6th) How long should it last?
Nissan trucks are reasonably dependable. Does it look like it's been taken good care of? That may not even matter! My truck is beat all to hell, mostly from trips to the local baseball park, but I KNOW it's been taken care of because I was lucky enough to buy it from its original owner, and they always brought it to me for all its maintenance and repairs over the years. This is rarely ever the case. How much do you know about the history of your truck?
In general, it will last as long as you keep spending money on it, just as almost every vehicle ever built. Brand new vehicles can have break downs, and so will every single used one eventually.
Oh, and don't forget the timing chain, or timing belt ...depending on which engine you have! That's a whole 'nother book.
(1st) Is it 2wd, 4wd? 4cyl, 6cyl? Std, or Auto trans? All of that makes a big difference.
2wd, 4 cyl, automatic transmission
(2nd) Change all the fluids! Flush? Well, the ones that have never been changed and really look bad ...flush those out for sure. All of them! Engine oil, antifreeze, std or auto trans fluid, brake fluid, power-steering fluid, transfer case, and both front and rear differentials, if applicable.
(3rd) Failure points? That completely depends on the specific model. (see line 1)
First response in red.
(4th) No rust? That's a good thing. Rust did kill a LOT of truck frames over the years, especially if the truck came from a region that salts its roads in the Winter.
There is body rust but it seems like the frame is ok.
(5th) Replace any and all filters! Oil, air, fuel and auto trans (where applicable)! Even the PCV valve!
(6th) How long should it last?
Nissan trucks are reasonably dependable. Does it look like it's been taken good care of? That may not even matter! My truck is beat all to hell, mostly from trips to the local baseball park, but I KNOW it's been taken care of because I was lucky enough to buy it from its original owner, and they always brought it to me for all its maintenance and repairs over the years. This is rarely ever the case. How much do you know about the history of your truck?
In general, it will last as long as you keep spending money on it, just as almost every vehicle ever built. Brand new vehicles can have break downs, and so will every single used one eventually.
Oh, and don't forget the timing chain, or timing belt ...depending on which engine you have! That's a whole 'nother book.
-Roger
Responses in red! How do I access some of those filters and drain plugsholes? The engine filter/oil is easy but what about everything else?
Responses in red! How do I access some of those filters and drain plugsholes? The engine filter/oil is easy but what about everything else?
The Auto Trans filter is mounted on the bottom of the trans. The pan has to come off, and thus the fluid comes out, but it would look something like this.
The fuel filter is located under the hood, passenger side, front side of shock tower, mounted in the fuel line, and would look something like this.
The radiator has a drain pet-cock on the bottom, passenger side.
The drain plug on the rear differential should be easy enough to figure out. It also has a fill plug, too.
If you buy the truck it would be real helpful to get a service manual... even a Haynes or other, from your local parts store or on line. Most maintenance stuff is covered in them, step by step.
Back to failure points... The 2.4 engines have a timing chain, tensioner, and rails that can be problematic. Each particular vehicle has to be checked and diagnosed independently of all others should they start to develop chronic rattling noises upon start up. A couple of seconds may be considered normal while the engine builds oil pressure, but longer than that indicates a more serious concern.
Any loud unusual noises from the engine can be a sign of abnormal or high levels of engine wear, possibly from overly extended oil change intervals. If you have questions about it, have another mechanic check it out prior to the purchase. Always a good idea, even though he might not be able to see everything ahead of time.
I'd also want to check the brakes and front end suspension components for wear, just to be sure it's safe to drive.
-R
__________________
1994 D21 2.4, 2wd, 5spd XE
Last edited by TheRepairMan; Jan 1st, 2013 at 08:53 PM.
Awesome. When you take the transmission pan off do you have to replace that gasket?
Yeah, that would be the normal procedure. The old gasket usually sticks and tears. A new filter and gasket comes together in a kit if you buy aftermarket. Probably separate if you buy OE from Nissan.
Nissan trannies don't use serviceable filters; they use a metal screen. Draining the fluid and refilling is all that's needed unless the pan gasket is leaking. Avoid using Dexron III for servicing. It's best to use genuine Nissan Type "D" ATF or an ATF that is recommended for use on Dexron II applications, like Castrol Multi-import ATF or Valvoline Maxlife ATF. If you do remove the pan, Nissan recommends you replace the trans pan bolts as they come with sealant applied to the threads; there are 21 of them IIRC. Usual drain and fill takes about 4.5 US quarts.
If you tune it up, it's best to stick with genuine Nissan or NGK parts. The PCV valve is a real PITA to replace and buried below the intake manifold. It screws into a breather that is bolted to the side of the front cover. Also, there is no 6 cyl. option for 96-97 Hardbody trucks. US models came only with the KA24E 4-cyl. that year. 96 models came with the updated timing chain guides, but chain rattle may still occure if the oil channel to the chain tensioner gets restricted or clogged. Regular oil changes is your best defense. Lifter clatter is pretty common, too. If they get real noisy, replacing the rocker arms usually fixes it, assuming the oil level and pressure are within specs.
Autozone.com has free repair guide if you register an e-mail address which you might find helpful.
mosinguy, these trucks are very reliable. My 92 se v6 5spd just rolled 300k the other day and the only things I've replaced is the starter. keep the fluids fresh and at the proper levels as well as keep track of the timing belt/chain and they will run forever
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